ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


FOR   USE    IN 


MANUAL  TRAINING  CLASSES 


FRANK  HENRY  SELDEN 

AUTHOR  OF  "ELEMENTARY  TURNING"  AND  "ELEMENTARY 
CABINETWORK" 


FULLY    ILLUSTRATED 


CHICAGO— NEW  YORK 
RAND,  McNALLY  &  CO.,  PUBLISHERS 


Copyright.  1906,  by  Hand,  McNally  &  Co. 


Preface 

The  object  of  this  work  is  to  place  before  pupils 
who  are  beginning  woodwork  such  information  as 
will  lead  to  a  correct  use  of  the  tools  and  lay  a  good 
foundation  for  advanced  work  without  lessening  in 
any  way  the  other  benefits  of  school  shop  work. 

It  is  designed  for  elementary  rather  than  tech- 
nical instruction,  and  therefore  many  problems  and 
suggestions  found  in  other  works  have  been  omitted. 
Great  care,  however,  has  been  taken  to  arrange 
and  illustrate  the  exercises  employed  so  that  pupils 
will  avoid  the  common  error  of  using  tools 
improperly  in  the  first  years  of  work,  and  thus  escape 
fixing  habits  which  later  will  cause  much  trouble. 
We  are  certain  there  is  no  need  of  using  tools 
improperly  in  the  first  years  of  shop  work. 

The  work  is  so  arranged  that  each  new  lesson  con- 
tains a  step  in  advance,  yet  is  so  closely  related  to 
the  previous  exercise  that  an  ordinary  pupil  may 
properly  comprehend  and  execute  the  new  problem. 

This  book  is  intended  for  class  use,  and  the 
author  has  endeavored  so  to  arrange  and  grade  the 
exercises  that  they  may  be  followed  very  closely. 
Where  no  preliminary  exercises  are  made,  and  the 
pupils  proceed  at  once  to  the  construction  of  some 
complete  object,  the  problems  should  be**  studied 

2066471 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

topically  as  the  pupil  has  need  of  them.  The  com- 
plete index  and  the  'cross  references  found  in  the 
text  will  aid  greatly  in  finding  any  desired  instruc- 
tion. The  special  information  required  by  the 
instructor  will  be  found  in  another  volume 

If  the  methods  of  doing  work  given  in  the  follow- 
ing pages  are  judged  from  the  standpoint  of  first- 
class  practical  workmen  they  will  be  found  correct 
in  every  case.  Where  there  is  a  choice  of  methods, 
the  one  which  is  considered  best  for  the  pupil's  use  is 
given.  The  lessons  have  been  tested  carefully  with 
many  pupils,  and  the  various  processes  tested  not 
only  in  the  school  room,  but  also  in  years  of  practical 
work  among  mechanics.  The  foundation  principles 
involved  are  treated  so  thoroughly  that  no  pupil,  after 
completing  the  book,  need  fear  to  use  these  methods 
in  any  first-class  shop.  In  shops  where  special 
methods  are  employed  these  lessons  will  be  found 
to  have  given  a  broad  basis  on  which  to  build  any 
special  line  of  mechanical  work.  Above  all,  these 
exercises  will  give  a  drill  in  system,  careful  fore- 
thought, and  intelligent  perseverance  which  will  be 
of  great  value  to  any  pupil,  either  boy  or  girl,  and 
will  well  repay  the  effort,  even  though  the  pupil 
may  never  use  such  tools  after  leaving  school. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  do  the  work  thoroughly  and 
earnestly  in  order  to  receive  the  full  benfit  of  the 
course.  Whenever  possible,  one  hour  and  a  half  each 
day  should  be  devoted  to  shop  work. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTION 
PERSONAL  EQUIPMENT 
SCHOOL  EQUIPMENT 

REGULATIONS 


Part  i.     Elementary  Exercises 

LESSON  I.  To  TRUE  THE  FIRST  SURFACE  OF  A  PIECE 
OF  WOOD  .  -  ... 

LESSON  II.  To  PLANE  AN  EDGE  AT  RIGHT  ANGLES  TO 
A  SURFACE  - 

LESSON  III.  USE  OF  THE  GAUGE      - 

LESSON  IV.  FINISHING  THE  THIRD  SIDE      - 

LESSON  V.  FINISHING  THE  FOURTH  SIDE 

LESSON  VI.  LAYING  OFF  SPACES  AND  LINING 

LESSON  VII.  BENCH-HOOK    - 

LESSON  VIII.  SHELF  BORDER 

LESSON  IX.  BORING 

LESSON  X.  SAWING 

LESSON  XI.  CHISELING 

LESSON  XII.  MAKING  THE  CORNER  SHELF 

LESSON  XIII.  CHISELING  ENDS 

LESSON  XIV.  SANDPAPERING 

LESSON  XV.  SHELLACING 

LESSON  XVI.  HALVED  CORNER 

LESSON  XVII.  FINISHING  THE  HALVED  CORNER 

LESSON  XVIII.  MAKING  A  HALVED  TEE 

LESSON  XIX.  HALVED  CROSS    - 

LESSON  XX.  HALVED  DOVETAIL 

LESSON  XXI.  SLIP  MORTISE  AND  TENON   - 

LESSON  XXII.  THROUGH  MORTISE  AND  TENON 

LESSON  XXIII.  FRAME  MORTISE  AND  TENON 

LESSON  XXIV.  BLIND  MORTISE  AND  TENON    - 

LESSON  XXV.  SINGLE  DOVETAIL 

LESSON  XXVI.  COMMON  DOVETAIL 

LESSON  XXVII.  HALF  BLIND  DOVETAIL 


10 

17 
20 
23 
25 
26 
30 
35 
38 
41 
44 
46 
47 
50 
53 
56 
64 
68 
71 
74 
77 
83 
85 
88 
91 
93 
96 


II 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 
LESSON 


Part  II.     Supplementary  Lessons 

XXVIII  GETTING  OUT  STOCK                  -  -         -   99 

XXIX.  BENCH-HOOK  102 

XXX.  RABBETED  CORNER  -          110 

XXXI.  GAINED  AND  RABBETED  CORNER  -         -     112 

XXXII.  BRIDLE  JOINT  114 

XXXIII.  HAUNCHED  MORTISE  AND  TENON  -     115 
XXXIV  DOWELL  JOINT  -     117 

XXXV.  SPECIAL  DOVETAIL  JOINT  120 

XXXVI.  MITER  JOINT        -  121 

XXXVII.  SLIP  MORTISE  AND  MITER  125 

XXXVIII.  GLUE  JOINT                          -  -  -      126 

XXXIX.  MAKING  AN  OCTAGON  130 
XL.  MAKING  A  CYLINDER    -        -  -        -      133 
XLI.  MAKING  A  POINTER         -         -  -            134 
XLII.  MAKING  A  HEXAGON           -        -  -        134 


Part  III.     Description  and  Use  of  Tools 
and  Materials 

INTRODUCTION,  ALCOHOL  (SEE  SHELLAC),  APRON,  BENCH,  BENCH- 
STOP,  BENCH-HOOK  (SEE  LESSONS  7,  29),  BITS,  BIT  BRACE, 
BRADS  (SEE  NAILS),  BRUSHES,  CHISELS,  CLAMPS,  COMPASSES, 
FILES,  GAUGE,  GLUE,  GRINDSTONE,  HAMMER,  KNIFE,  LUMBER, 
NAILS  AND  BRADS,  NAIL  SET,  OIL  CAN,  OILSTONE,  PAINTS  (SEE 
STAINS),  PENCIL,  PLANES,  PUTTY,  RULE,  SANDPAPER,  SAWS, 
SAW  SET,  SCRAPER,  SCREW  DRIVER,  SHELLAC,  STAINS,  SQUARE, 
STROP  TEE  BEVEL,  TRY-SQUARE,  VARNISH,  VISE,  WAX  136  to  206 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


INTRODUCTION 

These  lessons  take  up  the  common  tools  in  the 
order  which  the  author  has  found  to  be  best.  They 
are  so  graded  that  the  pupil  should  be  able  to 
execute  each  exercise  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  The 
chief  difficulties  are  carelessness  and  thoughtlessness. 
If  the  pupil  reads  carefully  the  entire  text  for  each 
exercise  before  beginning  it,  and  then  re-reads  the 
text,  step  by  step  in  order,  as  the  work  progresses, 
he  will  find  little  difficulty  in  making  proper  progress 

As  each  tool  is  taken  up,  the  pupil  should  turn 
to  part  III  and  study  carefully  what  is  said  about 
that  particular  tool;  and  each  day,  until  the  lessons 
are  mastered,  review  what  is  said  in  regard  to 
the  use  of  the  tools  in  the  lessons  and  also  the 
description  of  the  tools  in  part  III.  Each  new 
lesson  depends  very  largely  upon  those  preceding. 
Therefore,  only  by  a  constant  review  will  the  pupil 
get  the  greatest  possible  benefit  from  his  study. 
Although  the  directions  are  quite  explicit,  an  abun- 
dance of  opportunity  is  left  for  individuality  in 
work. 

If  proper  care  is  taken  there  will  be  no  necessity 
for  giving  any  pupil  a  second  piece  of  material  for 
any  exercise.  This  method  is  not  only  more  logical, 


4  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

but  more  satisfactory  to  the  pupils  when  they  realize 
that  it  results  in  greater  good  to  themselves.  The 
author  has  many  times  had  pupils,  after  a  piece  has 
been  finished,  voluntarily  express  great  satisfaction 
at  having  been  kept  so  long  at  the  exercise,  although 
considerable  effort  had  been  required  to  do  so.  It  is 
conquering  a  difficult  exercise  that  benefits  the  pupil 
and  gives  real  interest  in  the  work.  The  grade 
established  on  the  first  piece  is  apt  to  continue 
through  the  entire  course.  Pupils  who  conquer 
thoroughly  the  first  difficulties,  though  perhaps  at 
first  dropping  behind  those  more  easily  satisfied,  are 
quite  likely  to  work  so  much  more  rapidly  later  on 
that  they  will  more  than  make  up  the  loss  of  time 
on  the  first  exercises. 

These  lessons  will  be  found  very  useful  when 
constructing  complete  articles.  Where  no  model 
joints  are  made,  the  lessons  should  be  studied 
topically,  each  exercise  being  taken  up  as  it  occurs 
in  the  article  being  constructed. 

Personal  Equipment 

Each  pupil  must  provide  himself  with  a  suitable 
apron,  an  oilstone,  a  pocket-knife,  pocket-rule,  pen- 
cil, clothes-brush,  soap,  and  towel.  Each  of  these 
articles  must  be  plainly  marked  with  the  pupil's  name. 
No  pupil  should  be  admitted  to  the  class  until  he  has  his 
personal  equipment  and  each  article  properly  marked. 
These  articles  may  be  kept  either  in  the  bench 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  5 

drawer  or  in  the  locker.     For  description  and  sugges- 
tions in  regard  to  the  above  articles,  see  Part  III. 

School  Equipment 

In  addition  to  the  personal  equipment,  each  pupil 
is  provided  with  such  tools  and  materials  as  are 
required  for  the  exercises.  A  part  of  these  tools 
are  used  by  all  of  the  pupils  who  work  at  one  bench, 
and  are  called  the  bench-set.  They  are  not  likely 
to  be  injured,  and  therefore  may  be  kept  in  a  drawer 
unlocked.  They  consist  of  hammer,  backsaw, 
mallet,  try-square,  and  tee  bevel.  Handsaws,  rip- 
saws, large  square,  etc.,  are  kept  in  the  tool  room 
and  given  out  as  required. 

Each  pupil  is  furnished  with  an  individual 
drawer  containing  one  guage,  three  bits  (i  inch, 
f  inch,  and  T\  inch),  three  chisels  (J-  inch,  f  inch, 
and  I  inch),  and  two  planes  (a  jack  plane  and  a 
smooth  plane). 

Regulations 

Pupils  should  enter  and  leave  the  room  in  an 
orderly  manner.  Conversation  during  work  hours  is 
prohibited,  as  it  is  impossible  for  pupils  to  do  their 
best  work  when  there  is  conversation  in  the  room. 

Each  pupil  should  have  his  own  materials  and  tools 
as  required,  so  that  he  may  remain  at  his  place  during 
the  recitation  period.  Every  piece  of  material, 
including  sandpaper,  must  be  plainly  marked 


6  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

by  the  pupil  as  soon  as  received.  When  the  name 
is  erased  in  working  the  piece,  it  should  be  placed 
on  another  part.  When  the  work  is  completed,  the 
name  and  date  of  completion  should  be  plainly 
written  on  one  end,  or  on  some  other  convenient 
part  of  the  work.  So  far  as  possible,  the  work 
should  be  kept  in  the  bench  drawer.  Work  which 
has  to  be  left  on  the  finishing  table  to  dry  will  be 
cared  for  by  the  instructor. 

Pieces  of  material  left  over  that  are  large  enough 
to  be  used  for  an  exercise  should  be  left  on  top  of 
the  bench  or  handed  to  the  instructor.  They 
should  never  be  destroyed,  mutilated,  hidden,  or 
thrown  on  the  floor.  At  the  close  of  each  lesson  the 
tools  must  be  put  in  place.  The  bright  parts  which 
have  been  moistened  by  contact  with  the  hands 
should  be  wiped  with  oily  waste.  Tools  which  require 
grinding  may  be  reported  to  the  instructor  or  left 
upon  the  bench.  Each  pupil  must  have  a  key  to 
his  own  drawer,  and  will  be  held  responsible  for  the 
tools,  etc.,  which  it  contains.  In  case  any  tool  or 
bit  of  material  has  been  taken  or  tampered  with 
during  the  absence  of  a  pupil,  it  should  be  reported 
to  the  instructor  as  soon  as  discovered. 

At  the  close  of  the  recitation,  each  pupil  must 
brush  all  shavings  and  dirt  from  his  bench;  and 
when  cleaning  the  bench  care  must  be  taken  that 
no  dirt  is  thrown  on  to  adjoining  benches.  The 
lavatories  are  for  use,  and  every  pupil  should  wash 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  7 

his  hands  and  brush  his  clothes  before  going  to 
another  recitation. 

At  the  close  of  the  year  each  pupil  may  remove 
the  work  he  has  completed  by  paying  for  the  ma- 
terials used,  except  such  pieces  as  are  needed  in  the 
school  for  exhibition. 

For  each  exercise  a  sufficient  amount  of  material 
will  be  given  each  pupil.  This  material  will  be 
sufficient  to  complete  the  exercise  properly,  and  only 
in  very  extreme  cases  shall  more  material  be  given. 
In  no  case  shall  any  credit  be  given  for  work  done  on 
extra  material.  The  first  piece  given  must  be  finished 
as  well  as  possible,  even  though  very  incorrect  or 
under  size;  and  the  record  will  be  made  up  from 
this  piece.  Sandpaper  should  not  be  used  on  any 
exercise  until  that  exercise  has  been  passed  upon  by 
the  instructor. 

Notice 

No  cutting,  or  marking,  or  jamming  of  the 
benches  will  be  tolerated.  On  discovery  of  any 
injury  to  the  bench  the  pupil  will  be  required  to 
pay  a  fine  or  be  suspended  from  the  class.  Broken 
handles  or  tools  will  be  replaced  at  the  pupil's  expense. 

The  bench-hook  and  bench-board  are  to  protect 
the  bench  from  injury  by  saws,  chisels,  or  other 
tools.  Unnecessary  cutting  or  injury  to  the  bench 
hook  or  bench-board  will  be  treated  the  same  as 
injury  to  the  bench. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


The  Illustrations 

In  all  the  work  illustrated  in  this  book  the  posi- 
tions should  be  natural  and  easy.    Do  not  try  to  follow 

any  particular 
rule  or  to 
copy  any 
person's  po- 
sition. Fig.  1 
and  the  illus- 
trationswhich 
follow  are 
from  pupils 
at  work  and 
not  posed  to 
suit  the  fancy 
of  any  one. 
They  are  good 
examples  t  o 
be  studied 
rather  than 
copied.  They 
illustrate  gen- 
eral principles 
rather  than 
bits  of  detail. 
They  are 
scrupulously 
correct  for  the 

Fig.  1 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  9 

particular  person  photographed,  but  may  not  be 
exactly  the  proper  position  for  pupils  of  different 
height  or  of  different  physique. 

If  you  find  yourself  using  much  strength  it  is 
probably  caused  by  not  using  the  tools  properly. 
Although  you  are  not  expected  to  imitate  the  posi- 
tions of  other  pupils,  yet  you  must  ever  keep  in  mind 
that  there  is  a  correct  way  in  which  to  use  the  tools. 
The  correct  way  is  the  easiest  and  the  best  way,  and 
if  you  have  become  accustomed  to  using  the  tools 
improperly,  change  your  method  at  once.  Do  not 
insist  that  your  way  is  easier  or  better  for  you. 
Change  to  the  methods  given  in  this  book  at  once,, 
and  you  will  soon  be  doing  more  and  better  work. 


10  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  2.     Sighting  for  Straightne.^. 

Be  particular  to  have  the  li'iht  fall  properly  it  pun  the  piece. 

Experiment  by  holding  the  piece  in  different  positions. 


Fig.  3.     Testing  from  Edge  to  Edge. 
The  try-square  may  be  held  either  side  up,  but  the  beam 
should  not  be  placed  against  the  edge  in  making  this  test. 
Compare  this  use  of  the  try-square  with  that  shown  in 
Fig.  12. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  11 


PART  I 
Elementary  Exercises 

LESSON  I 
To  True  the  First  Surface  of  a  Piece  of  Wood 

Material— A  piece  of  pine  If  .inches  thick,  If  inches 
wide,  and  12J  inches  long. 

Examine  the  piece  thoroughly  for  broken  corners, 
checks,  knots,  and  other  defects.  Select  for  this 
lesson  the  best  surface.  Examine  very  carefully 
the  surface  to  be  worked;  first,  by  sighting  with  the 
eye  from  end  to  end  to  determine  if  it  is  straight 
(Fig.  2);  second,  by  applying  the  try-square  blade 
as  shown  in  Fig.  3  to  determine  if  it  is  straight  across 
from  edge  to  edge.  Next,  with  both  hands  hold  the 
piece  between  you  and  the  side  light,  and  sight  across 
the  piece  from  edge  to  edge,  tilting  it  to  such  an 
angle  as  will  make  the  line  of  sight  pass  just  over  the 
front  edge  to  the  back  edge  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  If  the 
piece  is  out  of  wind  both  back  corners  of  the  surface 
will  show  equally.  If  the  piece  is  in  wind  one  back 
corner  will  show  more  than  the  other  back  corner  arid 
the  high  back  corner  may  be  planed  down.  Although ' 
we  should  always  look  for  a  high  back  corner,  we 


12 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


may  take  the  piece  out  of  wind  by  planing  the  alter- 
nate front  corner.  It  is  usual  to  plane  an  equal 
amount  from  each  of  these  corners  or  more  from  the 
one  which  is  thicker.  Place  the  piece  on  the  bench  as 
shown  in  Fig.  1.  Do  not  put  the  piece  in  the  vise. 


Fig.  4-     Looking  for  Wind  or  Twist. 


Remember  to  repeat  the  three  tests  after  every  few 
strokes  of  the  plane,  so  that  when  the  piece  is  out  of 
wind  it  will  be  straight  from  end  to  end,  and  also  from 
edge  to  edge.  A  straight  edge  may  be  used  for  test- 
ing  the  straightness  of  the  surface.  (See  Fig.  5.) 

An  excellent  method  for  aiding  the  eyes  in  testing 
is  to  plane  up  three  pieces  as  nearly  perfect  as 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  13 

possible  and  after  testing  them  with  the  eyes  and 
try-square,  try  them  together.  First  test  number 
one  with  number  two,  then  number  one  with  number 


Fig.  5.  Using  a  Straight  Edge.  I/earn  to  examine  the  edge  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  straight  edge  should  be  used  only  to  see 
whether  the  first  test  has  been  successful. 

three,  and  then  number  two  with  number  three. 
Continue  to  plane  and  test  them  in  this  manner 
until  each  one  will  fit  the  other  two.  This  exercise 
will  well  repay  the  time.  The  three  pieces  required 
for  the  bench-hook  (Lesson  7)  may  be  dressed  up 
at  once  and  compared  in  this  manner. 

If  in  planing  the  surface  does  not  work  perfectly 
smooth,  make  a  careful  examination  of  the  plane. 


14  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

When  the  plane  is  in  proper  order  it  will  make  a 
shaving  nearly  the  full  width  of  the  bit.  The 
shaving  should  be  thickest  at  the  center,  and  curve 
slightly  to  the  edges.  If  you  are  not  strong  enough 
to  cut  a  wide  shaving,  the  bit  may  be  ground  so 
rounding  that  it  will  cut  only  a  very  narrow  shaving. 
If  the  plane  is  cutting  too  thick  or  too  thin  a  shaving, 
turn  the  brass  milled  thumb-nut,  which  is  under  the 
plane  iron,  until  the  proper  thickness  of  cut  is 
obtained.  As  the  plane  cuts  deepest  at  the  center 
of  the  cutting  edge,  the  plane  should  be  held  parallel 
with  the  sides  of  the  piece  and  with  the  center  of  the 
bit  over  the  place  requiring 
the  heaviest  cut.  (See  Fig. 
6.)  Lift  or  tilt  the  plane  on 
the  return  stroke  so  that 
the  bit  will  not  touch  the 
wood.  (Figs.  7,  8,  9.)  Hold 
the  plane  firmly,  but  do  not 
attempt  to  make  it  cut  by 
using  an  extreme  amount  of 
pressure.  Bear  down  on 
the  toe,  or  front  end,  of 
the  plane  in  starting  (Fig. 

Fig.  6.     Jointing  an  Edge.         !)>     and     on     the     opposite 
The  plane  may  be  moved  along   end,    Or     heel,    in     finishing 
either  side  or  along  the  center.   ,,  ,      /-r(.       1r.N      T 

the  stroke  (Fig.  10).   In  case 

a  shaving  is  to  be  taken  off  only  a  part  of  the  length  of 
the  piece,  raise  the  heel  of  the  plane  gradually  while  it 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  15 

is  moving  forward,  or  in  case  the  shaving  is  to  com- 
mence part  way  of  the  length,  lower  the  heel  to 
the  cut  while  the  plane  is  moving  forward.  Do  not 
be  satisfied  until 
you  have  asurf  ace 
not  only  straight 
and  out  of  wind, 
but  also  entirely 
free  from  any 
roughness  caused 

by     the     plane.      Wff-7-    Tilting  the  Plane.    This  is  to  avoid 
__  ...         ,  dulling  the  cutting  edge  on  the  return  stroke. 

You  will  prob- 
ably discover  that  it  is  quite  difficult  to  plane  the 
piece  so  that  it  will  be  straight  and  square    to    the 

extreme  ends. 
The  reason  for 
this  is  that  you 
do  not  bear 
down  enough 
on  the  toe  of 
the  plane  and 

Fig.  8      Lifting   the   Plane.     This  is  to  avoid     ^ift   enough    On 
dulling  the  plane  on  the  return  stroke.  £hg  heel  of    the 

plane  as  you  start  the  stroke;  and  in  finishing  the 
stroke  you  do  not  bear  down  enough  on  the 
heel  and  lift  enough  on  the  toe  of  the  plane.  The 
gradual  changing  from  bearing  on  one  end  of  the 
plane  to  bearing  on  the  other  end  of  the  plane  is  the 
one  very  important  point  which  you  must  learn 
if  you  are  to  do  good  work. 


Ifi 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  9.      Swinging  the  Plane  to  one  Side. 
This    keeps   the   bit   from   touching  the 


You  will  soon  discover  that  some  pieces  of  wood 
plane  more  smoothly  in  one  direction  than  in  the 
other.  Always  plane  in  the  direction  that  will  pro- 
duce the  smooth- 
est surface.  This 
is  called  planing 
with  the  grain.  In 
some  pieces  the 
grain  runs  in  both 
or  many  direc- 
tions, and  it  is 
impossible  to 
plane  them  en- 

material  on  the  return  stroke.  tirelv     Smooth 

Such  pieces  are  sometimes  finished  with  a  scraper. 

In  getting  the  surface  to  the  proper  shape  use  as 
little  of  the  material  as  you  possibly  can.  This  not 
only  will  save 
much  time  and 
material,  but  is 
also  the  mark  of 
a  skilled  work- 
man. 

When  the  first 
surface  is  finished,  Fig' 10'  Position  in  Fimshin° theSirokc- 
make  a  pencil  mark  on  it  about  1  inch  long.  This 
mark  should  be  near  the  center  of  the  piece,  from  end 
to  end,  and  at  nearly  right  angles  to  the  edge,  and 
should  extend  to  the  edge  which  is  to  be  planed 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  17 

next  (Fig.  11).  This  is  called  a  face-mark,  and  not 
only  indicates  that  the  surface  has  been  properly 
shaped,  but  also  that  measurements  and  lines  are 
to  be  made  from  this  side. 

This  piece  should  always  be  held  by  placing  the 

end  against  the 
bench  stop.  If 
there  is  a  tail 
vise  do  not  use 
it,  for  you  will 

Fig.  11.     Face-Marks.    Unices  the  piece  is  to  HP  rrmrp  pprtnin 

be  cut.  in  two  but  one  set  of  face-marks  is  DG  m°re  certaln 

used.     When  there  is  but  one  set  they  are  to  US6  the  plane 

placed  near  the  center.  properly  if   the 

piece  is  not  held  rigidly;  and  when  the  plane  is 
properly  used  the  piece  will  not  move  from  its  place 
in  front  of  the  stop,  and  there  will  be  no  need  of 
using  the  vise. 


LESSON  II 
To  Plane  an  Edge  at  Right  Angles  to  a  Surface 

The  first  edge,  or  second  surface,  is  examined  in 
but  two  ways:  for  straightness,  as  in  Fig.  2,  and  to 
see  whether  it  is  at  right  angles  to  the  first  surface, 
as  in  Fig.  12.  In  using  the  try-square  press  the  head 
or  beam  firmly  against  the  face  surface.  The  face 
surface  is  always  the  one  having  the  face-mark.  If 
the  blade  of  the  try-square  does  not  touch  the  edge 


18 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


across  its  entire  width,  plane  down  the  high  places 
until  it  does.  Do  not  try  to  make  the  plane  cut  at 
one  side  by  tilting  it,  but  move  the  central  part  of 
the  bit  (the  part  which  cuts  the  thickest  shaving) 


Fig.  12.     A   Try-Square  on  the  First 
position  of  the  hands. 


3.     Observe  carefully  the 


over  the  places  requiring  the  heaviest  shaving,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  6. 

Be  careful  to  keep  the  edge  straight  and  smooth. 
Avoid  as  much  as  you  can  taking  shavings  only  a 
part  of  the  length.  Plan  to  have  the  last  shaving 
extend  the  entire  length  of  the  piece.  Move  the 
plane  parallel  with  the  edge.  Do  not  be  satisfied 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  19 

until  the  try-square  touches  the  entire  surface.  Be 
very  particular  to  have  the  edge  straight  to  the 
extreme  ends.  Do  not  put  this  piece  in  the  vise. 
When  this  edge  is  finished,  make  a  face-mark  on  it 
the  same  as  on  the  first  surface,  as  shown  in  Fig.  11. 
You  should  exercise  care  in  selecting  the  edge 
to  be  first  planed.  Plan  to  remove  as  little  material 
from  this  edge  as  possible,  for  this  will  become  the 
working  edge,  and  should  therefore  contain  the 
best  material.  The  greater  part  of  the  excess  ma- 
terial is  to  be  removed  from  the  third  and  fourth 
surfaces.  If  the  amount  of  waste  is  large  enough, 
it  may  be  removed  by  using  the  rip-saw  first,  and 
afterwards  finishing  with  the  plane. 


20  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

LESSON  III 
Use  of  the  Gauge 

See  that  the  spur  is  sharpened  to  a  knife-like 
point,  so  that  it  will  make  a  smooth  line.  Set  the 
gauge  by  holding  it  in  the  left  hand,  the  thumb  under 


\      \\\     \      \   _ 


\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\  \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\  ^y 

\  \ 

v-r— i 


Fig.  13.     First  Piece  or  Rule. 

the  beam  and  against  the  head,  the  first  finger  on 
top  of  the  head  and  the  other  fingers  grasping 
around  the  beam.  With  the  right  hand  hold  the 
rule,  opened  to  one  foot  long,  against  the  head,  and 
directly  behind  the  spur  and  on  top  of  the  beam, 
Fig.  14.  By  pressing  with  the  rule,  or  with  the 
thumb  and  finger,  the  head  will  be  moved  until  the 
proper  line  on  the  scale  is  brought  directly  behind 
the  spur.  Then  lay  the  rule  aside,  holding  the  head 
in  place  by  the  pressure  of  the  first  finger  of  the  left 
hand  until  the  thumbscrew  has  been  tightened  with 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


21 


the  right  hand.     Test  the  gauge  to  see  if  it  has  been 
correctly  set  by  applying  the  rule  again. 


Fig.  14.     Setting  the  Gauge. 

To  draw  the  line,  take  the  gauge  in  the  right 
hand,  three  fingers  grasping  the  beam— the  first  finger 

over  the  head  and 
the  thumb  against 
the  beam,  and  as 
nearly  opposite 
the  spur  as  is  con- 
venient. Always 
place  the  head  of 
the  gauge  against 
a  side  having  a 

Fig.  15.     Drawing  a  Gauge  Line.  face-mark. 


22  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Take  the  piece  used  in  Lesson  2,  and,  with  the 
gauge  set  to  \  inch,  draw  a  line  on  the  side  first 
trued,  |  inch  from  the  face  edge.  Before  attempt- 
ing to  draw  the  line  it  is  well  to  practice  the  move- 
ment of  the  hand  and  arm  by  rolling  the  gauge 
until  the  spur  will  not  touch  the  surface  of  the  piece, 
and  then  making  the  movement  as  if  drawing  the 
line  the  entire  length  of  the  piece.  Next  allow  the 
spur  to  touch  a  very  little,  making  a  very  light  line. 
Gradually  increase  the  strength  of  the  line  until  a 
line  of  the  proper  heaviness  has  been  produced. 
Next  draw  a  line  \  inch  from  the  face,  and 
then  a  line  1  inch  from  the  face,  and  lastly  a  line 
\\  inches  from  the  face  (Fig.  13).  Make  all 
these  lines  of  equal  strength  and  smooth  and  straight 
to  the  extreme  ends.  It  is  usually  more  con- 
venient to  rest  the  end  of  the  piece  against  the 
bench  stop;  and,  in  order  to  draw  the  line  to  the 

extreme  end 

of  the  piece, 
it  willbe  neces- 
sary to  roll  the 
piece  as  shown 
at  Fig.  16.  Be 
careful  to  hold 
the  work  and 

Fig.  16.     Finishing  a  Gauge  Line.  gauge  go  that 

you  can  easily  see  how  deep  the  spur  is  cutting,  and 
also  whether  the  head  of  the  gauge  is  against  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


23 


face  side.  If  you  are  careful  in  making  a  light 
line  at  first,  you  will  have  no  serious  difficulty  in 
drawing  a  line  through  knots  or  over  diagonal  grain. 

LESSON  IV 
Finishing  the  Third  Side 

Take  the  piece  used  in  Lesson  3  and  plane  the  third 
side  or  second  edge,  planing  down  to  the  1£  inch  gauge 
line,  making  the  piece  1^  inches  wide.  It  will  be  no- 
ticed that  when  you  have  planed  sufficiently  to  remove 
the  rough  edge  caused  by  the  gauge  spur  that  the  piece 

is  a  very 
little  less 
than  1|  in- 
ches wide. 
This  is  caus- 
ed by  planing 
to  the  inside 
edge  of  the 
line.  If  you 
wish  to  have 
the  piece  full 
width  you 
must  set 
the  gauge 
enough  wider 
to  allow  for 
planing  the 

Fig.  17.     Measuring.  line  off. 


24  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

See  that  the  edge  is  square  by  using  the  try- 
square  as  on  the  first  edge  (Fig.  12).  If  the  edge 
is  planed  to  the  line,  it  should  be  straight,  yet  it  is 
best  to  examine  it  very  .carefully  near  the  ends  and 
at  the  middle  by  using  the  rule  as  shown  in  Fig.  17. 
In  measuring  with  the  rule  the  fingers  grasp  the  rule; 
the  end  of  the  thumb  rests  against  the  piece  of  wood, 
and  the  rule  is  moved  until  one  of  the  inch  gradua- 
tions is  at  one  edge  of  the  piece.  Do  not  place  the 
end  of  the  rule  even  with  one  edge  of  the  piece. 
Always  hold  the  rule  on  edge,  so  that  the  graduations 
will  come  in  contact  with  the  surface  being  measured. 
You  may  not  be  pressing  hard  enough  on  the  toe 
of  the  plane  in  starting,  or  on  the  heel  in  finishing, 
the  stroke,  as  directed  in  Lesson  1.  Only  by  planing 
the  piece  straight  to  the  extreme  ends  will  you  get 
the  proper  control  of  the  plane.  No  mark  should 
be  placed  on  this  side. 

If  you  do  not  get  the  edge  perfectly  square  and 
straight  by  the  time  you  have  reached  the  line,  do 
not  continue  planing  by  guess,  but  draw  another 
gauge  line  very  near  to  the  edge  and  try  again  to 
plane  to  a  line.  Perhaps  your  plane  is  set  too  heavy, 
or  perhaps  the  iron  has  shifted  so  that  it  is  cutting 
too  much  on  one  side.  Examine  your  tools  and  the 
edge  thoroughly  before  trying  the  second  time;  and 
then,  by  cutting  a  very  thin  shaving  and  testing  the 
edge  after  each  stroke  of  the  plane,  you  should  be 
able  to  get  the  edge  exactly  correct.  If  you  fail 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  25 

the  second  time,  draw  another  line  and  try  again 
and  again  until  you  do  succeed  in  getting  the  edge 
exactly  correct.  Each  time  work  more  slowly  and 
with  more  care.  Keep  a  constant  watch  of  the 
condition  of  the  plane,  for  it  is  quite  impossible  to 
make  the  edge  true  if  the  plane  is  not  properly  set 
or  is  dull.  Review  often  the  directions  for  adjusting 
and  sharpening  the  plane  given  in  Part  III. 

LESSON  V 
Finishing  the  Fourth  Side 

Gauge  the  piece  to  1}  inches  thick  on  each  edge 
and  plane  down  to  these  lines.  Use  the  blade  of 
the  try-square  as  in  Fig.  3  to  see  if  the  surface  is 
straight  from  edge  to  edge  or  from  line  to  line. 
You  may  also  use  the  try-square  as  on  the  second 
and  third  surfaces,  placing  the  head  of  the  try- 
square  against  the  surface  which  has  a  face-mark. 
Also  measure  with  the  rule  at  each  corner,  as  in 
Fig.  17.  If  all  these  tests  show  your  piece  to  be 
correct  you  will  have  done  well.  If  the  work  is 
very  accurate  the  square  will  fit  the  fourth  surface 
when  the  beam  is  against  the  edge  which  does  not 
have  a  face-mark.  Do  not  plane  the  fourth  surface 
to  make  the  try-square  fit  in  this  position.  This  is 
only  an  additional  test  for  proving  the  accuracy  of 
the  work.  There  should  be  no  mark  placed  on  this 
surface. 


26  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

In  case  your  piece  is  below  size,  do  not  discard 
it  for  another  piece,  but  work  it  to  a  smaller  size, 
testing  it  carefully  to  see  that  it  is  the  same  size  at 
each  end.  Should  you  plane  below  your  gauge  line, 
do  not  attempt  to  complete  the  piece  by  simply 
planing  and  measuring,  but  set  the  gauge  to  the 
smaller  end  and  draw  a  line  entirely  around  the 
piece.  Then  plane  carefully  to  this  line,  and  test 
with  the  try-square  and  the  rule. 

LESSON  VI 
Laying  off  Spaces  and  Lining 

Place  the  rule  on  the  surface  to  be  measured 
and,  with  the  knife  in  the  right  hand  and  the  back 
of  the  blade  against  the  rule,  as  shown  in  Fig.  18, 
make  a  mark  at  the  desired  distance  with  the 
extreme  point  of  the  knife 
blade.  Lay  off  as  many  points 
as  you  can  without  moving 
the  rule. 

Take     the    piece    used    in 
Lesson  3,  Fig.  13,  and   lay  off 
twelve   1-inch  spaces.     Begin 
about  I  inch  from  the  end,  so 
Fig.  18.    Marking  off       that  there  will  be  left  at  each 
Spaces.  encj  Q£  me  piece    some   waste 

material  which  may  be  cut  off  in  finishing  the  ends 
after  the  scale  is  completed. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


27 


Fig  19.    Lining.     Compare  this  position 
with  that  shown  in  Fig.  Jf.2. 


Place  the  point  of  the  knife  in  the  first  mark 

and  move  the  try-square  up  to  the  knife  while  holding 

it,  as  in  lining  the  shelf  border  (Fig.  19).      Hold  the 

try-square  firmly, 
and  with  the  knife 
begin  at  the  farther 
edge  and  draw  a 
line  across  the  piece 
close  up  to  the 
blade  of  the  try- 
square.  In  holding 
the  try-square,  it  is 
best  to  place  the 
thumb  against  the 

head,  the  first  and  second  fingers  on  the  blade,  and 

the  third  and  fourth  fingers  against  the  piece,  as 

shown  in  Fig.  19.    When  the  head  of  the  try-square 

is  on  the  opposite  side,  as 

in    drawing    lines     at     the 

opposite    end,    the    fingers 

are  against  the  try-square 

and  the  thumb  against  the 

piece  (Figs.  20  and  42). 
See    that     the    line    is 

straight,  and  that  it  passes 

exactly  through  the  center 

of  the  mark  made  by  the 

point  of  the    knife    when    laying    off    the    spaces. 

Be  sure  to  keep  the  head  of  the  try-square  against 


Fig.  20.      Lining, 
position. 


Reverse 


28 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


the  edge  having  the  face-mark.     Draw  a  line  in  a 

similar  manner  at  each  of  the  points.  After  the 
lines  have  been  drawn  the 
marks  made  by  the  point 
of  the  knife  should  not  be 
visible.  By  standing  with 
the  left  side  a  little  toward 
the  bench  one  will  be  more 
apt  to  draw  the  lines  correct- 
ly. When  near  the  opposite 
end  the  try-square  and  piece 
should  be  reversed  and  the 
lines  drawn  as  shown  in 
Fig.  20.  In  drawing  lines 
on  a  wide  piece  the  try-square 

is  held  as  shown  in  Fig.  21.     No  matter  how  wide  or 

how  narrow  the  piece, 

the  knife  must  be  held 

at  the  same  angle  the 

entire    length    of    the 

line.       Any    variation 

in  the  angle  which  the 

knife   makes  with  the 

surface  of  the  piece  is 

quite  certain  to  cause 

an  irregularity  in  the 

line.  If  you  are  drawing 

lines  on  a  piece  which 

is    too   long    to    be    re-  Fig.  22.     Lining  at  the  Left-Hand  End. 


Fig.  21 .    Lining  on  a  Wide 
Piece. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


29 


Fig.  23.     Testing  Lint 


versed  you  may  draw  the  lines  at  the  left-hand  end, 

as  shown  in  Fig.  22. 

After  completing 
these  lines,  go  back  over 
each  line  with  the  try- 
square  and  examine 
them  very  carefully  to 
see  if  they  are  exactly 
straight  across.  Hold 
the  piece  up  to  the  light, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  23. 
Place  the  rule  on  edge  on  the  piece  and  see  whether  the 
lines  coincide  with  the  inch  lines  on  the  rule.  If 
they  do  not  appear  to  be  square,  or  at  the  proper 
distances,  go  over  them  again  with  the  knife  and 
correct  them. 

Next  lay  off  |  inches,  and  draw  lines  through 
these  points  from  the  line  which  is  1  inch  from  the 
edge  to  the  face  edge.  When  these  are  completed 
and  corrected,  lay  off  \  inches,  and  draw  lines  from 
the  line  which  is  J  inch  from  trie  edge  to  the  face 
edge.  Next  lay  off  \  inches,  and  draw  lines  to  the 
remaining  gauge  line.  Be  careful  to  make  full, 
even  lines,  holding  the  knife  well  on  the  point. 
Should  these  lines  not  be  neatly  and  accurately 
drawn,  draw  similar  gauge  lines  on  the  opposite  side, 
and  repeat  the  knife  lines  as  on  the  first  side. 

Continue  to  practice  laying  off  spaces  and  draw- 
ing lines  until  you  can  make  every  line  correctly. 


30  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  make  joints  or  construct 
any  of  the  models  until  you  have  learned  to  lay 
off  spaces  and  draw  lines  correctly.  If  necessary, 
plane  off  the  lines  and  try  again.  Make  a  gauge 
line  to  plane  to,  and  plane  the  side  to  correct  shape 
before  attempting  to  repeat  the  lining. 


LESSON  VII 
Bench-Hook 

Select  a  piece  of  stock  of  poor  quality  (sap  or 
small  knots)  |  of  an  inch  thick,  4  inches  wide,  and 
12  inches  long.  Dress  it  with  the  plane  on  all  four 
sides,  planing  it  out  of  wind,  the  edges  square,  and 


Fig.  24.     A  Plain  Bench-Hook. 

the  ends  of  equal  width  and  thickness. 

Select  two  more  pieces  of  the  same  length  and 
thickness,  and  each  2  inches  wide.  Make  these  also 
smooth,  straight,  out  of  wind,  and  their  sides  and 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


edges  parallel.     Follow  the  same  method  in  work- 
ing these  three  pieces  as  in  dressing  up  the  first  piece. 

Nail  the  pieces  to- 
gether as  shown  in 
Fig.  24,  using  six-penny 
box  wire  nails.  Lay 
one  of  the  narrow  pieces 
on  the  bench  and  start 
a  nail  as  shown  in  Fig. 
25.  After  the  nail  has 
been  driven  into  the 
piece  a  very  short  dis- 
tance, examine  it  from 
two  directions  to  see 
if  it  is  perpendicular 
to  the  surface  of  the 
piece.  If  not,  move 
it  with  the  hand  until 
it  is.  After  placing  it 
in  correct  position,  hit 
it  a  light  blow  with 
the  hammer  and  ex- 
amine it  again.  Con- 
tinue to  drive  it  a  little 
at  a  time,  examining 
it  after  each  blow  until 

Fig.  25.    Starting  a  Nail.   Examine  ,    •        • ,     . 

the  nail  from  two  positions  as         you  are  certain    it   is 

in  boring  (Figs.  35  and  36)  entering      the       W  O  O  d 

properly.       Be    careful    to    hold    the    hammer    as 


32 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  26,     Driving  a  Nail. 


shown  in  Fig.  25,  and  drive  this  nail  until  it  just 
pricks  through  the  piece. 
See  if  the  nail  is  properly 
located  to  enter  the  center 
of  the  edge  of  the  wide 
piece,  and  not  so  near 
the  end  as  to  split  the 
piece.  Start  three  more 
nails  in  the  same  man- 
ner, being  careful  to  lo- 
cate them  correctly  (Fig. 
24).  After  the  four  nails 

are    properly    started,    place    the    piece    containing 

them  on  the  edge  of  the  wide    piece   and   adjust  it 

so  that  the  edge  of  the  narrow  piece  will  be  even 

with  the  surface  of  the 

wide    piece    (Fig.    26). 

The  points  of  the  nails 

will    help    to    keep   the 

piece  in  place  while  you 

take   the   hammer   and 

drive  the  first  nail  into 

the  wide  piece.      If  the 

nails   were   driven 

through  too  far  in  start- 
ing, turn  the  piece  over  Fig.  27.     Using  a  Naihet. 

and  drive  them  back  until  they  will  just  scratch  the 

edge  of  the  wide  piece. 

If  the  piece  now  appears  to  be  all  right,  drive 

the  nails  in  their  full  length  and,  with  the  nailset, 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


33 


set  the  heads  about 


F  g.  28,     Using  a  Nail  for 
Xailsct. 


of  an  inch  below  the  surface, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  27.  If 
no  nailset  is  at  hand,  the 
head  of  a  nail  may  be 
used  as  a  nailset,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  28. 

In  case  you  wish  to 
withdraw  a  nail  after  it 
is  partly  driven,  use  a 
claw-hammer  and  block, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  29. 


After  the  two  pieces  are 
nailed  to  the  edges  of  the 
wide  piece  examine  them 
to  see  if  their  edges  are 
smooth,  or  flush,  as  it  is 
termed,  with  the  surface  of 
the  wide  piece.  If  the  joints 
are  not  flush,  plane  them 
down  as  shown  in  Fig.  30. 

As  the  bench-hook  is 
to  be  used  as  a  cutting 


Fig.  30.     Planing  a  Joint  Flush. 


''ig.    my.      Withdrawing   a 
Long  Nail. 

_  board  and  for  saw- 
ing, etc.,  it  is  not 
necessary  to 
smooth  the  ends. 
When  it  is  all 
completed,  look  it 
over  carefully  to 
see  how  well  the 


34  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

pieces  fit  each  other,  and  whether  they  appear  to 
have  been  well  planed.  Supplementary  Lesson 
No.  29  is  a  bench-hook  of  a  more  difficult  design, 
which  may  be  made  in  place  of  this  one. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


35 


t 


Fig.  31 .  Jointing  a  n  Edge  of  a  Thin 
Piece.  Use  the  vise  only  when  the 
piece  in  too  thin  to  hold  against  the 
stop.  Except  for  very  light  planing 
you  should  stand  more  at  the  end  of 
the  piece  than  the  young  man  in  this 
picture.  Compare  this  position 
with  that  shown  in  Fig.  1. 


LESSON  VIII 
Shelf  Border 

The  stock  for  this 
exercise  should  be  of 
good  quality  straight- 
grained  pine.  It 
should  be  17^  inches 
long,  3J  inches  wide, 
and  ^  inch  thick. 
Dress  up  the  best  side 
and  best  edge,  as  in 
Lessons  1  and  2,  ex- 
cept that  in  jointing 
the  edge  you  should 
place  the  piece  in  the 
vise,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  31.  Gauge  to  3 
inches  wide  and  finish 
the  second  edge. 
Gauge  to  £  inch  thick 
and  finish  the  back, 
or  second  side. 

Lay  off  on  the 
back,  or  second  side, 
£  inch  spaces,  leaving 
about  I  inch  of  waste 
at  each  end.  Draw 


36 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


lines  with    knife   and    try-square    across    the    piece 
through  each  of  these  marks,  as  shown  in  Figs.  19  and 

20.  Test  the 
lines  carefully,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  23. 
Set  the gauge 
to  2|  inches  and 
draw  a  line  on 
the  second,  or 
back  side.  This 
line  should  be 
just  |  inch  from 
the  second,  or 
back  edge,  and, 
if  the  piece  is  un- 
der size,  set  the 
gauge  enough 
Iessthan2£inch- 
es  to  make  the 
line  just  \  inch 
from  the  back 
edge.  Do  not 
set  the  gauge  to 


\  inch  and  gauge 
from  the  back 
edge,  but  set  the 


Fig.  32.  Lining  on  an  Edge.  Notice  that 
the  workman  stands  erect  with  the  hands  in 
an  easy  position.  Compare  the  position  of 
the  try-square  with  that  shown  in  Fig.  83. 

gauge  so  that  when  the  block  is  against  the  face 
edge  the  spur  will  make  a  line  just  \  inch  from 
the  back  edge.  If  you  have  a  lead  pencil  point  in 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  33.  Lining  on 
an  Edge.  Reverse 
Position. 


your  gauge  (as  shown  in  Fig.  154),  use  it  instead 
of  the  spur  in  drawing  this  line.  Draw  gauge  lines 
on  each  edge  J  inch  from  the 
face  side. 

With  the  knife  and  try-square 
draw  lines  on  each  edge  from  the 
ends  of  the  lines  which  are  on 
the  back  side  across  the  edge  to 
the  gauge  line  which  is  |  inch 
from  the  face  side.  Be  careful 
to  have  the  lines  meet  exactly 
at  the  edge.  The  piece  may  be 
held  in  the  vise  while  drawing 
the  lines  on  the  edges,  as  shown 
in  Figs.  32  and  33. 
To  set  the  try- 
square  for  draw- 
ing the  lines  on  the 
edges,  catch  the 
point  of  the  blade 
in  the  end  of  the 
line  on  the  side 
and  move  the  try- 
square  up  to  the 
blade,  as  in  lining 
around  the  rule 

Fig.  34.    Try-Squa  re  at  the  Side  of  the  Bit 


38 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  IX 
Boring 

Select  the  -^  inch  bit  and  put  it  in  place  in 
the  bit  brace.  Place  the  shelf  border  in  the  vise  and 
make  an  X  on  every  second  line  where  the  lines  cross 

, ,      the  line  which  is  \ 

inch  from  the  back 
edge,  beginning 
with  the  third  line 
from  the  ends. 
There  should  be 
sixteen  marks. 

Place  the  spur 
of  the  bit  at  the 
points  indicated  by 
the  marks  exactly 
where  the  knife 
lines  cross  the 
gauge  line  (Fig.  71). 
Raise  the  brace  to 
a  position  at  right 
angles  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  piece. 
These  angles  may 

be  tested  with  the 
Fig.  35.     Boring. 

try-square    (as    in 

Fig.  34);  but  it  is  better   to  stand  first  in  front  of 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


39 


the  piece  as  shown  in  Fig.  35,  to  be  sure  that  the 
bit  is  at  right  angles  as  seen  from  this  side,  and 

then  step  to 
the  end  of 
the  piece  as 
showninFig. 
36,  still 
holding  the 
brace  in  the 
same  posi- 
tion, and  see 
whether  it  is 
correctasex- 
amined  from 
the  end.  A 
little  p  r  a  c  - 
tice  in  this 
manner  will 
make  it  pos- 
sible to  bore 
holes  at  right 
angles  to  the 
surf  ace  with- 
out the  use 
of  the  try- 
square.  Do 

Fig.  86.     Boring.     Compare  this  position  with       not  make  the 

that  shown  in  Fig.  35.  .    .  f 

mistake     o  f 
attempting    to    examine    the    bit    and    brace    from 


40  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

more  than  the  two  positions.  As  it  is  often  quite 
difficult  to  apply  the  try-square,  and  as  it  consumes 
more  time,  it  is  far  better  to  learn  to  do  without  it. 

When  you  are  quite  certain  that  the  bit  is  in 
correct  position,  turn  the  brace  slowly,  being  careful 
that  the  upper  end  of  the  brace  does  not  move 
sidewise.  If  the  bit  is  a  good  make  and  properly 
sharpened,  it  will  cut  without  any  pressure  on 
the  knob.  One  hand  should  keep  the  brace  per- 
pendicular and  the  other  hand  revolve  it.  It  is 
not  important  which  hand  is  on  the  knob,  or  which 
on  the  sweep,  for  often,  when  many  holes  are  to  be 
bored,  you  will  change  hands  in  order  to  rest 
them.  As  soon  as  the  spur  can  be  felt  at  the  other 
side,  remove  the  bit  and  bore  the  next  hole.  Con- 
tinue in  this  manner  until  all  the  holes  have  been 
bored  from  one  side.  Then  place  the  piece  in  the 
vise,  face  side  up,  and  finish  the  holes  by  placing 
the  spur  of  the  bit  in  the  hole  made  while  boring 
from  the  other  side.  Do  not  think  that  you  need 
not  be  careful  in  boring  from  this  side,  for  if  the 
brace  is  not  perpendicular  to  the  surface,  you  will 
be  likely  to  split  off  some  of  the  edge  of  the  hole  on 
the  back  side.  It  is  to  avoid  this  roughness  that 
you  bore  from  both  sides. 

If  the  board  has  a  tendency  to  split  it  should  be 
moved  in  the  vise,  so  that  the  pressure  of  the  vise 
will  tend  to  keep  it  from  splitting. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


41 


LESSON  X 
Sawing 


Fig.  37.     Using  the  Backsaw. 


Place  the 
shelf  border  on 
the  bench-hook 
and  take  the  po 
sition  for  sawing 
shown  in  Fig.  37. 
In  starting  the 
cut,  guide  the 
saw  by  holding 
the  side  of  the 
finger  or  thumb- 
nail against  the 
side  of  the  saw 
just  above  the 
teeth.  It  is  best 
to  begin  by  mov- 
ing the  saw  for- 
ward and  back- 
ward the  full 
length,  resting  it 
against  the 
•  thumb  or  finger, 
but  not  allowing 
it  to  touch  the 
piece.  Next 


42 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


lower  it  so  that  it  will  touch  the  back  corner  a  very 
little,  and  continue  moving  it  forward  and  backward, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  cut.  After  you  are  sure  that 

you  have  the 
correct  mo- 
tion, allow  it 
to  cut  a  very 
little,  grad- 
ually lowering 
the  hand  and 
cutting  far- 
ther across 
until  the  kerf 
extends  en- 
tirely across 
the  surface. 
Do  not  rest 
the  saw  full 
weight  on  the 
board  while  it 
shows  any 
tendency  to 
catch  when 
making  the 
f  o  r  w  a  r  d 
stroke.  Fig.  38  indicates  the  various  positions  of 
the  saw  in  starting  and  gradually  lowering  the 
hand  until  the  kerf  extends  entirely  across,  when 
the  saw  is  nearly  or  quite  level.  Do  not  try  to  start 


Fig.  38.     Positions  in  Starting  the  Saw. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  43 

the  saw  by  drawing  it  toward  you  and  then  lifting 
it  on  the  forward  stroke.  Learn  to  control  the  saw 
properly,  and  then  there  will  be  no  need  to  draw 
it  backward  to  start  it. 

See  that  the  saw  cuts  very  close  to  the  line,  but 
that  it  does  not  cut  the  line.  The  line  should  not 
be  broken  or  roughened  by  the  teeth  of  the  saw. 
Neither  should  there  be  any  material  between  the 
saw  kerf  and  the  knife  line.  Watch  carefully  the 
knife  lines  down  the  edges,  and  continue  sawing 
until  the  kerf  extends  to  the  lines  which  are  J  inch 
from  the  face  side.  Be  very  careful  to  saw  exactly 
to  the  lines  and  no  farther,  for  the  piece  is  to  be  bent; 
and  if  the  sawing  is  not  well  done,  the  piece  may 
break  instead  of  bend. 

You  may  set  a  try-square  at  the  side  of  the  saw 
to  see  when  it  is  at  right  angles  to  the  surface  (as 
in  Fig.  95),  but  it  is  better  to  accustom  the  eye  to 
see  the  correct  angle  by  looking  at  the  corner  in 
which  the  try-square  would  be  placed.  Avoid  look- 
ing directly  down  upon  the  saw.  Always  look 
obliquely  to  the  surface  of  the  board.  Saw  at  the 
same  side  of  each  line,  except  one  line  at  each  end, 
which  is  to  be  left  until  you  are  ready  to  smooth 
the  ends.  Begin  near  one  end  and  change  ends  as 
you  near  the  opposite  end.  After  cutting  all  the 
lines,  except  the  end  ones,  place  the  piece  in  the 
vise  and  saw  from  the  edge  into  each  hole. 


44  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XI 
Chiseling 

Lay  the  piece  for  the  shelf  border  on  the  cutting 
board  and  grasp  the  $  inch  chisel  as  shown  in  Fig. 
39.  Remove  a  very  little  of  the  corner  at  a  time, 
and  move  the  chisel  forward  and  downward  at  the 
same  time.  The  points  may  be  marked  off  as 
shown  in  Fig.  41  in  the  completed  shelf;  yet  it  is 
probably  better  not  to  mark  them  off,  as  it  is 
necessary  to  go  over  them  several  times,  each  time 
making  them  a  little  nearer  the  correct  size  and 
shape  until  they  are  all  alike  and  of  good  proportion. 
If  lines  are  drawn  you  will  probably  try  to  remove 
too  large  a  shaving  at  one  time. 

If  the  chisel  is  properly  sharpened  and  moved 
downward  and  forward  at  the  same  time,  the  sur- 
face will  be  cut  glossy  smooth.  Do  not  be  satisfied 
until  this  smoothness  is  attained,  as  it  is  to  learn 
to  cut  smoothly  with  the  chisel  that  this  exercise  is 
given.  When  the  chisel  is  properly  held  and  used, 
it  requires  but  very  little  force  to  make  the  cut.  If 
much  force  is  required  try  to  discover  what  is  wrong. 

Always  hold  the  chisel  perpendicular  to  the 
surface  of  the  piece  being  cut,  and  with  the  flat  side 
in  line  with  the  arm  (Figs.  39  and  40).  Always 
place  the  flat  side  of-  the  chisel  against  the  wood, 
reversing  it  in  the  hand  as  you  change  from  cutting 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  45 

at  one  side  of  the  point  to  the  other  side.  If  the 
points  have  a  tendency  to  split,  or  if  pieces  tend  to 
roll  out,  it  is  because  the  chisel  is  dull,  or  because 
you  are  not  holding  it  perpendicular  to  the  surface 
of  the  board,  or  not  moving  it  forward  enough  in 
proportion  to  the  distance  downward.  It  may  be 


Fig  39.     Using  a  Chisel.  Fig.  40.      Using  a  Chisel. 

Reverse  Position. 

caused  by  any  one  of  these  mistakes  or  by  a  com- 
bination of  two  or  more  of  them.  In  any  case, 
keep  trying  until  it  does  cut  smoothly  and  squarely. 
After  you  have  made  the  points  as  nearly  correct 
as  you  can  make  them  by  testing  them  with  your 
eye,  test  them  with  the  rule  and  try-square. 


46 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


When   you   have   all    the   points   finished,   lay   the 
piece  aside  until  you  have  made  the  shelf. 

LESSON  XII 
Making  the  Corner  Shelf 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  47 

The  border  completed  in  Lesson  11  is  intended 
for  a  corner  shelf.  The  shelf  should  be  similar  in 
shape  to  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  41.  If  the  border 
does  not  bend  easily  the  curve  may  be  nearer  straight. 

Get  out  a  piece  of  board  about  f  inch  thick  and 
cut  one  edge  of  it  to  the  curve  desired.  The  curve 
may  be  drawn  freehand  and  then  sawed  with  the 
compass  saw  or  with  the  handsaw  and  finished 
with  the  smooth  plane.  In  planing  the  edge  of  the 
shelf,  hold  it  on  edge  in  the  vise.  Nail  the  border 
to  place  and  cover  the  nailheads  with  a  thin  strip  of 
pine  dressed  to  a  half  oval,  or  with  fancy-headed 
nails,  such  as  are  shown  in  Fig.  162  B. 

After  the  border  is  in  place,  cut  the  remaining 
edges  to  the  desired  shape  and  finish  them  smoothly 
with  a  plane.  The  shelf  may  be  suspended  by 
using  either  screw-eyes,  cords,  or  laid  upon  cleats 
fastened  to  the  wall. 

The  entire  shelf  should  be  finished  with  three 
coats  of  shellac. 

LESSON  XIII 
Chiseling  Ends 

Take  the  piece  you  lined  like  a  scale  or  rule  in 
Lesson  6  and  draw  a  line  on  all  four  sides  at  the 
end  of  the  scale.  This  line  is  drawn  by  placing  the 
point  of  the  knife  blade  in  the  end  of  the  line  (Fig. 
42)  and  moving  the  try-square  blade  up  to  it,  keep- 


48  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

ing  the  head  of  the  try-square  firmly  against  the 
side  having  a  face-mark.  After  the  try-square  is  in 
position,  draw  a  line  as  in  making  the  scale  (Figs. 
19  and  20).  Be  very  careful  to  have  the  knife  at 
the  same  angle  when  drawing  the  line  as  it  was 


Fig.  4%-  Lining  Around  an  End.  Compare  the  position  of  the 
try-square  and  fingers  shown  in  this  figure  with  the  positions 
shown  in  Figs.  19,  20,  21,  32,  and  33. 

while  setting  the  try-square;  otherwise  the  lines  will 
not  meet  exactly.  Draw  lines  on  the  remaining 
two  sides  in  a  similar  manner,  and  note  that  the 
try-square  head  has  to  be  reversed  in  order  to  keep 
it  against  a  side  having  a  face-mark. 

After  drawing  lines  at  each  end,  place  the  piece 
on  the  bench-hook  and  saw  the  ends  off  with  the 
backsaw.  This  time  do  not  saw  close  up  to  the 
line,  but  about  ^  inch  away  from  it,  because  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  49 

saw  does  not  leave  a  smooth  surface.  After  the 
ends  are  sawed  off,  take  the  chisel  in  the  right  hand, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  43,  and  smooth  the  ends.  Be 
particular  to  use  a  shearing  cut,  the  same  as  in 
chiseling  the  shelf  border  (Lesson  11),  so  that  the 

ends  will  be  cut 
very  smoothly. 
Cut  about  half.- 
way  across  from 
each  side,  but  do 
not  cut  fro  m 
either  edge.  Test 
the  ends  with  the 
try-square,  and  if 
they  are  not 
square  and 
smooth  draw  lines 
around  again,  this 

Fig.  A3.     Chiseling  an  End.  '. 

time  about  3^  men 

from  the  end,  and  try  again  to  chisel  the  ends  smooth. 
Keep  trying  until  the  ends  are  smooth  and  square, 
even  if  the  scale  is  less  than  1  foot  long.  Remember 
that  it  is  useless  to  try  to  chisel  the  ends  properly 
after  you  have  cut  beyond  the  line  made  by  the  knife. 
When  the  ends  are  finished  the  glossy  surface  made 
by  the  side  of  the  point  of  the  knife  blade  should 
be  visible  entirely  around  each  end. 


50 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  44.      Tearing  Sandpaper. 


LESSON  XIV 

Sandpapering 
Take  a  sheet  of  No.  |  flint  paper,  or  sandpaper, 

as  it  is  commonly  called,  and  lay  it,  paper  side  up, 

on  the  bench.  Place 
the  hacksaw  across 
it  so  that  the  teeth 
of  the  saw  will  be  at 
the  center  of  the 
sheet,  and  tilt  the 
blade  to  bring  the 
teeth  firmly  against 
the  paper.  With  the 

right  hand  grasp   one 

corner  of  the  paper  and 

pull  upward  and  toward 

the  saw,  tearing  the  paper 

across  the  center  as  shown 

in  Fig.  44.     Tear  one  of 

these  pieces  again,  mak- 
ing a  piece  |  the  size  of 

the  sheet.     Tear  a  sheet 

of  No.  1J   paper  in   the 

same  manner. 

Place  the   half  sheet 

of  No.  !$•  paper  on    the 

bench  with  the  flint  side 

up.      Hold  the  scale  com-       Fiy  45.     Sandpapering  an  End. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  51 

pleted  in  the  last  lesson  as  shown  in  Fig.  45.  Hold  it 
very  firmly,  and  move  it  from  you  without  allowing  it 
to  shake  or  tip.  Notice  that  the  thumb  and 
fingers  are  as  near  the  paper  as  they  can  be  without 
being  injured.  Examine  the  end  of  the  piece  often, 
using  a  try-square,  and  each  time  change  the  posi- 
tion of  the  piece,  so  that  it  will  be  smoothed  and 
yet  kept  straight  and  square.  When  all  the  rough- 
ness left  by  the  chisel  has  been  removed,  repeat  the 
operation,  using  the  half  sheet  of  No.  %  paper.  Con- 
tinue using  this  paper  until  the  surface  appears 
bright  and  the  grain  of  the  wood  shows  plainly. 
The  coarse  paper  is  to  remove  the  tool  marks,  and 
the  finer  paper  is  to  remove  the  fine  white  torn 
grain  and  scratches  made  by  the  coarse  paper. 
You  will  notice  that  it  is  possible  to  remove  only 
small  irregularities  with  the  coarse  paper,  for  if 
we  try  to  remove  any  large  defects  the  corners  will 
become  rounded,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  reline 
and  rechisel  the  end.  In  no  case  leave  the  corners 
rounded,  for  round  corners  are  the  mark  of  the 
shiftless  workman. 

When  each  end  has  been  properly  smoothed, 
take  a  quarter  sheet  of  the  No.  |  paper  and  fold  it 
carefully  to  |  sheet  size.  Hold  it  as  shown  in  Figs. 
46  and  47,  and  smooth  the  four  sides.  Do  not  use 
a  block  for  work  of  this  kind,  as  it  would  surely 
round  the  corners  and  spoil  the  work.  Be  very 
careful  not  to  rub  much  near  the  ends  or  edges. 


52 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Remember  that  the  paper  cuts  most  directly  under 
the  ringers,  and  therefore  be  careful  how  you  press 

upon  the  paper, 
and  frequently 
change  the  po- 
sition of  the 
fingers,  so  that 
the  paper  will  be 
worn  evenly.  Do 
no  more  rubbing 
|  than  is  necessary 

Fig.  46.     Sandpapering  a  Side.     Compare        £  o       make       a 
this  view  with  Fig.  Jfl. 

smooth,     glossy 

surface.  Too  much  sandpapering  is  as  bad  as  too 
little.  By  holding  the  work  up  to  the  light  you  can 
easily  distinguish 
the  smooth  from 
the  rough  places. 
Learn  also  to  test 
the  work  by  feeling 
with  the  hand  or 
fingers. 

Look  closely  at 
your  work,  and  you 
will  discover  that  it 
is  best  to  rub  length- 
wise of  the  grain. 

o        ,    ,  ,  Fig.  47.    Sandpapering.    Observe  that  the 

Scratches  made  by          paper  does  not  touch  the  edge  of  the  piece. 

rubbing   across   the   grain   are  quite  apt  to   injure 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


53 


the  appearance  of  the  finish.  It  is  necessary  to  rub 
both  with  the  grain  and  against  the  grain  in  order  to 
remove  the  fine  fibers  which  stick  up  on  the  surface. 


LESSON  XV 


Shellacing 


Fig.  48.    Sh&acing. 


See  that  you  have 
not  forgotten  to 
write  your  name  and 
date  on  the  piece. 
Wipe  the  dust  from 
the  piece  and  drive 
a  small  nail  or  brad 
into  one  end  by 
which  to  hold  it. 

See  that  the  shel- 
lac is  not  too  thick. 
Fill  the  brush,  and 
wipe  the  excess  off 
by  drawing  the  end 
of  the  brush  over 
the  wire  placed 
across  the  dish  for 
this  purpose.  Shel- 
lac the  ends  first, 
next  the  edges,  and 


54  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

lastly  the  sides.  Do  not  draw  the  brush  against 
the  corners,  as  it  will  cause  the  shellac  to  pile  up 
there.  When  the  shellac  is  dry,  this  excess  will 
show  plainly  and  is  not  easily  removed.  It 
is  a  good  rule  to  brush  from  the  center  outward. 
When  applying  the  shellac,  hold  the  piece  so  that 
you  see  the  light  reflected  from  the  surface,  as  this 
is  the  only  position  in  which  you  can  see  exactly 
what  you  are  accomplishing  (Fig.  48). 

When  you  have  gone  over  the   piece,  stand    or 
lean  it  up  to  dry.     Do  not  go  over  the  surface  in  places 


Fig.  49.     Scraping  Thick  Places  in  the  Finish. 

more  than  once.  Some  spots  will  absorb  the  finish 
very  rapidly  and  others  very  slowly.  To  get  a  good 
finish  the  first  coat  of  shellac  should  be  laid  on  evenly 
and  allowed  to  dry  thoroughly  before  more  is  added. 
After  the  piece  has  dried  for  one  or  more  days, 
smooth  it  to  a  nice  glossy  surface  with  No.  ^  sand- 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  55 

paper.  At  the  corners  or  other  places  where,  by 
mistake,  the  finish  is  very  thick,  use  the  scraper 
as  shown  in  Fig.  49.  Hold  the  scraper  as  near  vertical 
as  it  will  cut.  There  is  great  danger  of  scraping  or 
rubbing  too  much  and  thus  spoiling  the  finish. 
The  most  common  mistake  is  to  rub  at  the  corners 
or  at  a  small  spot  in  the  center  until  it  shows  white. 
By  keeping  a  constant  watch,  and  often  changing 
the  position  of  the  fingers  on  the  paper,  this  may 
be  avoided.  When  the  piece  is  ready  for  the  second 
coat  of  finish  it  will  feel  smooth  and  glossy  to  the 
touch  and  will  present  a  dead  smooth  surface  when 
held  up  to  reflect  the  light. 

Apply  the  second  coat  the  same  as  the  first 
one,  except  that  it  may  be  somewhat  thinner  and 
must  be  applied  with  more  care,  more  evenly,  and 
much  more  quickly.  Several  more  coats  of  finish 
may  be  applied  in  the  same  manner. 


56 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XVI 
Halved  Comer 

The  stock  for  this  exercise  should  be  of  pine  or 
other  soft  wood.  It  should  be  12|  inches  long, 
If  inches  wide,  and  If  inches  thick.  Dress  up 
the  piece  on  all  four  sides  in  the  same  manner,  and 


Fij.  50.     Halved  Corner. 

•follow  the  same  order  that  you  did  in  planing  the 
first  piece  or  scale.  Remember  what  is  said  in 
Lesson  4  about  setting  the  gauge  so  that  you  may 
plane  off  the  line  and  yet  have  the  piece  full  size. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


57 


We  wish  to  have  this  piece  of  correct  size,  and 
straight  to  the  very  ends.  The  face  side  and  face 
edge  must  be  plainly 
marked  as  directed  in 
Lessons  1  and  2  and  shown 
in  Fig.  11.  This  piece 
requires  two  sets  of  face- 
marks  because  it  is  to  be 
cut  in  two. 

Study  the  drawing 
(Fig.  50)  until  you  under- 
stand thoroughly  what  is 
to  be  made.  Lay  out  the 
piece  as  indicated  by  the 
drawing,  using  the  try- 
square  and  knife  to  make 
the  lines  at  right  angles 
to  the  edges,  and  the 
gauge  to  make  the  lines 
parallel  with  the  edges. 
Do  not  forget  that  the 
gauge  lines  must  be  drawn 
with  the  head  of  the 
gauge  against  one  of  the 
surfaces  which  has  a  face- 
mark.  In  changing  from 
one  side  to  the  other  side 
you  should  revolve  the 
Piece  end  for  end  in  order 


58 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  52  Splitting  out  Waste  Material. 
Do  not  use  this  method  until  you 
have  learned  to  work  as  shown  in 
Figs.  53 A  and  53 B. 

finished  work. 


to  bring,  or  rather  to 
keep,  the  face-mark 
at  the  right  side,  so 
that  the  head  of  the 
gauge  will  be  against 
the  face-mark  as  the 
gauge  is  held  in  the 
right  hand. 

The  reason  for  al- 
ways working  from 
face-marks  may  not 
be  understood  by  the 
pupil  while  making 
these  first  exercises, 
but  it  must  be  care- 
fully attended  to  or 
later  on  much  work 
will  be  spoiled.  Draw 
gauge  lines  not  only 
at  the  sides  but  also 
at  the  ends,  holding 
the  gauge  and  piece 
as  shown  in  Fig.  51. 
Be  careful  not  to  draw 
lines  beyond  where 
the, wood  is  to  be  re- 
moved, for  if  you  do 
they  will  show  on  the 
Set  the  gauge  to  the  exact  distance 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  59 

when  you  are  drawing  lines  for  making  joints  and 
the  like.     The  directions  for  setting  the  gauge  a 

little  large,  so  that 
the  entire  line  may 
be  planed  off,  apply 
only  to  lines  drawn 
for  the  sizing  of  the 
piece.  After  the 
knife  lines  and 
guage  lines  are  all 
drawn,  examine 
the  piece  thorough- 
ly to  see  if  all  are 
correct.  I  f  a  n  y 
Fig.53A.  Chiseling  at  the  Right  Hand  End.  mistakes  are  found, 

correct  them  at  once.    Mark  the  parts  to  be  cut  away 

at  each  end  with  a  large  X  so  that  you  will  not  make 

a  mistake  and  cut 

from    the    wrong 

side.     In  this  case, 

one    mark  will   be 

on    the    upper,    or 

face,  side  and  the 

other  mark  on  the 

lower,  or  back,  side 

of  the  piece. 

Lay     the     piece    Fig-  53B-     Chiselin9  <**  the  Left  Hand  End. 

on  the  bench-hook,  and  with  the  backsaw  saw  just 
enough  to  one  side  of  the  line  to  allow  for  smooth- 


60  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

ing  the  end  grain  with  the  chisel,  as  in  smoothing 
the  end  of  the  scale  in  Lesson  13.  Saw  each  end, 
remembering  to  turn  the  piece  over  in  sawing  the 
second  end.  Be  very  careful  to  stop  exactly  at  the 
gauge  line. 

With  the  piece  on  the  bench-hook  and  the  chisel 
in  hand,  as  shown  in  Fig.  53  A,  remove  the  waste 
material  a  very  little  at  a  time.  After  you  have 


Fig.  64.     Testing  a  Gain  with  a  Chisel. 

become  skilled  in  using  the  tools  you  may  place 
the  piece  on  edge  and  remove  a  large  piece  at  once 
by  using  the  chisel  and  mallet  as  shown  in  Fig.  52, 
but  for  the  first  exercises  it  is  best  to  do  the  work 
without  a  mallet  and  cut  as  thin  and  smooth  shav- 
ings as  you  can.  Instead  of  trying  to  do  the  work 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


61 


quickly,  see  how  many  and  how  wide  and  how  thin 
shavings  you  can  make.  To  begin  this  way  will 
result  in  your  doing  more  and  better  work  in  the 
future.  By  holding  the  chisel  at  a  slant,  so  that 
one  corner  cuts  ahead  of  the  other,  it  will  cut  more 
easily  and  more  smoothly.  The  way  of  the  grain  will 


Fig.  55.      Testing  a  Gain  with  a  Try-Square.       The  head 
of  th<>  Iry-square  is  not  held  ayainst  the  piece. 

determine  which  corner  is  to  cut  ahead.  Examine  the 
pictures  carefully  and  hold  your  tools  in  the  same  man- 
ner. Never  place  your  fingers  or  hand  where  the  chisel 
might  injure  them  if  it  should  slip,  or  the  piece  split. 


62 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Slant  the  chisel  so  that  it  will  be  farther  from 
the  line  on  the  back  side  than  on  the  front  side. 
Continue  to  work  the  notch  down  until  the  chisel 
is  almost  to  the  gauge  line,  then  place  the  chisel 
exactly  and  squarely  in  the  line  and  make  a  careful 
cut,  finishing  the  gain  at  this  point.  When  you 
have  cut  to  the  line  at  this  edge,  reverse  the  piece, 

holding  it  and  the 
chisel  as  shown  in 
Fig.  53  B,  and  cut  to 
the  line  on  this  edge. 
It  is  not  necessary  to 
work  much  of  the 
gain  from  this  side. 
Do  not  use  the  vise 
for  holding  the  piece. 
If  you  were  a  skilled 
mechanic  you  would 
not  take  the  time  to 

Fig.  56.      Testing  a  Gain  wi(h  a         use   the   vise,  and  for 
Try-Square.      The  head  of  the  try-          .1  i  -ii    j  i 

square  is  held  against  the  face  edge  tne     Unskilled     work- 

man  to   use  the  vise 

is  to  lose  the  opportunity  to  learn  that  which  the 
exercise  is  intended  to  teach. 

Handle  the  tools  with  as  little  force  as  possible, 
for  if  they  are  properly  used  not  much  force  is  re- 
quired. Use  the  chisel  or  blade  of  the  try-square  to 
test  the  gain,  as  shown  in  Figs.  54,  55,  and  56.  After 
each  end  has  been  properly  finished,  draw  two 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


63 


lines  around    the 


center  of  the  piece  about  &  of 
an  inch  apart  and  saw  between 
them.  Try  the  pieces  together, 
placing  the  face-marks  at  the 
inside,  as  shown  in  the  drawing 
(Fig.  50).  Place  the  try-square 
at  the  inside  angle  to  see  if  the 
pieces  make  a  right  angle  as 
shown  in  Fig.  57,  except  that  in 
testing  the  joint  before  it  is  glued 


Fig.  57 .  Testing  the 
Joint.  Before  the 
piece  has  been  glued 
the  joint  should  be 
placed  on  the  bench 
and  the  try-square 

appliedas  indicated  pi    58     Halved  Corner  Clam    d 

in  this  figure. 

you  will  lay  it  and  the  try-square  upon  the  bench. 
See  that  the  joint  fits  tightly  at  all  places.  If  the 
joint  is  not  right,  do  not  try  to  make  it  fit  by  cut- 
and-try  methods,  but  find  out  what  place  is  wrong 
and  then  reline  it  and  work  exactly  to  the  line. 
Continue  testing  and  relining  until  the  fit  is  correct. 
When  the  joint  is  finished  put  a  little  glue  on 
the  surfaces  which  come  in  contact.  Allow  the 


64  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

glue  to  dry  until  it  will  string  out  like  cobwebs 
when  touched  with  the  finger.  Then  place  the 
pieces  together,  being  very  careful  to  keep  them  in 
correct  position,  and  put  a  clamp  on  them  to  hold 
them  in  place  until  the  glue  has  dried  (Fig.  58). 
Be  careful  that  the  clamp  does  not  cause  the  pieces  to 
slip  apart.  Always  place  the  clamp  on  work  so 
that  the  joint  may  be  examined  after  the  clamp 
has  been  tightened.  (Read  what  is  said  about 
clamps  in  Part  3.) 

LESSON  XVII 
Finishing  the  Halved  Corner 

After  the  glue  has  properly  set,  which  will 
require  several  hours,  remove  the  clamp.  Take 
off  any  surplus  glue  with  a  chisel,  being  careful 
not  to  roughen  the  surface  of  the  wood.  The  pieces 
should  be  smooth  at  the  sides  where  they  join,  but 
if  they  are  not,  plane  down  the  side  having  a  face 
mark  until  it  is  even,  or  flush,  with  the  other  face 
surface.  Considerable  care  is  required  to  avoid 
working  the  piece  tapering  or  small  at  the  outer 
end.  Also  avoid  planing  too  much  at  the  outer 
edge.  Apply  a  straight  edge  or  the  try-square 
blade  as  shown  in  Figs.  59  and  60.  Move  the  try- 
square  over  the  entire  surface  and  be  very  particular 
to  have  the  plane  cut  at  the  proper  place.  In  order 
to  have  the  plane  cut  properly  it  is  frequently  neces- 
sary to  take  a  shaving  first  from  one  of  the  pieces 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


65 


and  then  from  the  other,  changing  from  one  to  the 
other  at  every  stroke  of  the  plane.  When  this  side 
is  correct,  set  the  gauge  to  the  thinnest  corner  and 
gauge  around  the  piece  to  determine  how  much 


Fig.  59.     First  Test  After  Gluing. 

is  to  be  taken  from  the  opposite,  or  back,  side. 
Test  this  side  the  same  as  the  first  side,  in  addition 
to  planing  to  the  gauge  lines. 

After  the  sides  are  finished,  place  the  piece  in 
the   vise  as  shown  in   Fig.  61,  and  plane  the  rough 


66 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


ends  down  even  with  the  edge  of  the  piece.  Should 
the  stub  ends  project  more  than  $  inch,  line  them 
with  a  knife  and  saw  them  to  within  --fa  of  an 
inch  of  the  face  of  the  other  piece.  Finish  the 


Fig.  60.     Second  Test  After  Gluing. 

other  end  in  the  same  manner.  Measure  the  pieces 
at  the  ends  and  near  the  corner  to  determine  if 
they  are  the  same  size  at  each  end.  If  they  are 
not,  plane  them  until  they  are.  Also  test  them  by 
applying  the  head  of  the  square  to  the  face  side 
and  the  blade  along  the  outside  edges.  Also  apply 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  67 

the  square  as  shown  in  Figs.  57  and  62.    All  of  these 


correct.      When 


ftl.      Planing  in  the  Vise. 

tests  are  required  to  determine  whether  the  piece  is 
the  sides  and  edges  are  com- 
pleted, line  around  them  with 
knife  and  try-square,  making 
them  6  inches  long  at  the 
outside  edge.  Saw  and  chisel 
these  ends  the  same  as  you  did 
the  ends  of  the  first  piece. 

Finish  this  joint  with  sand- 
paper and  apply  two  coats  of 
shellac.  The  ends  should  be 
held  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
ends  of  the  rule  in  Lesson  14 
(Fig.  45).  The  end  grain  at  the 
corners  may  be  sanded  as  shown 
in  Fig.  63,  but  the  outer  edges 
should  be  finished  by  holding 

Testing  the  . 

Outside  of  the  Corner      the  paper  as  shown  in  rigs.  46 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


and  47.  In  sanding,  where  two  pieces  join  with 
their  grain  running  at  right  angles,  as  on  the 
surfaces  at  the  corners,  sand  the  piece  first 
which  necessitates  the  paper  passing  over  and 
scratching  the  other  piece. 
Then  sand  the  other  piece, 
working  carefully  up  to 
the  end  of  the  first  piece 
with  the  folded  edge  of 
the  sandpaper.  This  will 
finish  the  joint  without 
leaving  any  marks  from 
the  paper  on  either  piece. 
To  smooth  the  edges  at 
the  inside  of  the  corner,  fold  the  sandpaper  at  a 
fresh  place  and  press  it  closely  into  the  corner. 
A  scraper  is  sometimes  of  assistance  in  finishing 
in  corners.  Be  very  careful  not  to  round  the  ends 
or  edges. 


Fig.  63.  Sandpapering  at  the 
Corner.  The  end  grain  only 
is  sanded  in  this  manner. 


LESSON  XVIII 
Making  a  Halved  Tee 

The  stock  for  this  exercise  should  be  the  same 
as  for  the  halved  corner  (Lesson  16). 

Reduce  the  piece  to  the  exact  width  and  thick- 
ness. Leave  the  ends  rough.  Lay  off  the  halved 
end  by  following  the  drawing  in  the  same  manner 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


69 


as  you  laid  off  the  left-hand  end  of  the  halved 
corner  (Lesson  16,  Fig.  50).  Remember  to  make 
all  gauge  lines  with  the  head  of  the  gauge  against 
the  face  side.  Cut  the  piece  in  two  by  drawing 


64.     Halved  Tee. 

two  lines  entirely  around  it  near  the  center  and 
sawing  between  them,  as  in  Lesson  16.  Draw  one 
of  the  lines  for  the  side  of  the  gain  with  the  try- 
square  and  knife.  Place  the  end  which  is  to  fill 
the  gain  or  notch  onto  the  piece  which  is  to  be  cut 


70 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  65.     Getting  the  Width  by 
Superposition. 


out  and  mark  the  width  of  the  gain  with  the  knife, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  65.  Remove  the  piece  and  draw 
a  line  with  the  knife  and 
try-square  just  inside  of 
the  point  made  in  mark- 
ing the  width.  As  the 
piece  must  fit  the  gain 
exactly,  a  line  drawn  at  the 
side  of  the  piece  or  through 
the  mark  made  by  the 
knife  point  would  make 
the  gain  the  width  of  the 
line  too  wide.  This 
method  of  determining  the 
width  of  a  gain  or  similar  opening  is  called  "super- 
position." Make  your  lines  exactly  correct,  and 
work  exactly 
to  them. 
Make  smooth 
fine  lines  both 
with  the  knife 
and  the  gauge. 
Saw  just 
enough  inside 
the  lines  to 
allow  for  finishing  the  sides  of  the  gain  with  the  chisel. 
Do  not  think  that  because  the  sides  of  the  gain  will 
not  show  when  the  piece  is  together,  that  it  does 
not  matter  how  the  end  grain  at  the  sides  of  the 


Fig.  66.     Making  a  Shearing  Cut  in  a  Gain. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  71 

gain  is  cut.  All  such  places  should  be  cut  very 
smooth,  using  the  shearing  cut  the  same  as  in 
smoothing  the  ends  in  Lesson  13,  Fig.  43.  Work 
the  bottom  of  the  gain  the  same  as  the  halved  cor- 
ner. Use  a  shearing  cut  as  much  as  you  can,  and 
hold  the  piece  as  shown  in  Fig.  66. 

This  piece  should  fit  close  enough  to  stay 
together  without  gluing.  Dress  off  the  end  of  the 
piece  at  the  gain,  or  joint,  with  the  plane,  hofding 
the  plane  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees  but  moving  it 
directly  parallel  with  the  edge  (Fig.  61).  Line 
and  chisel  the  ends  the  same  as  the  halved  corner 
(Lesson  17),  but  do  not  plane  the  sides  or  use  any 
sandpaper  on  either  the  ends  or  sides  of  this  piece 

Write  your  name  and  the  date  on  the  face  side 
near  one  end. 


LESSON  XIX 
Halved  Cross 

Stock  If  inches  thick,  If  inches  wide,  8J  inches 
long,  of  pine  or  basswood. 

This  piece  should  be  worked  to  exactly  li 
inches  by  1|  inches.  As  each  half  is  to  fit  into  a 
gain,  it  is  very  essential  that  the  piece  be  made 
exactly  square  and  exactly  the  same  size  at  each 
end.  You  should  now  be  able  to  work  your  material 
to  size  and  square  with  little  difficulty.  Place 
two  sets  of  face-marks  on  the  piece  so  that  you  can 


72 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


find  the  face  edge  after  the  piece  has  been  cut  in 
two  Unless  you  are  very  careful  you  will  make 
the  mistake  of  cutting  both  notches  or  gains  from 


Fig.  67.     Halved  Cross. 

the  same  side,  so  that  when  the  pieces  are  placed 
together  the  face-marks  will  not  both  be  on  the 
same  side,  as  they  ought  to  be. 

Lay  off  the  two  pieces  by  superposition  as 
described  in  Lesson  18.  Work  the  gains  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  gain  in  the  halved  tee  (Lesson 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  73 

18).  Finish  one  piece  all  ready  to  be  placed  to- 
gether, and  then  finish  the  other  piece,  doing  all 
the  work  before  the  pieces  are  tried  together  in  any 
way  after  the  lines  have  been  made. 

When  both  are  completed,  put  them  together; 
and  if  you  have  done  your  work  properly,  they  will 
slip  together  without  the  aid  of  a  hammer,  and 
will  also  be  tight  at  every  point.  Finish  the  ends 
with  the  chisel,  making  the  pieces  each  4  inches 
long.  Do  not  plane  the  sides  or  use  any  sandpaper 
on  this  joint. 


74 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XX 
Halved  Dovetail 

Stock  and  finished  sizes  for  this  piece  are  the 
same  as  for  the  halved  cross  (Lesson  19). 

Set  the  gauge  and  draw  the  gauge  lines  the  same 
as  in  making  the  halved  tee  (Lesson  18).  Lay  out 


Fig.  68.     Halved  Dovetail. 

the  dovetail  by  drawing  2  oblique  lines  on  the  face 
side  with  the  knife  and  try-square.     Use  the  try- 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


75 


square  blade  as  a  straight  edge  in  drawing  the  oblique 
lines.  Draw  knife  lines  across  the  back  side,  across 
each  edge,  and  on  the  face  side  from  the  edges  to 
the  oblique  lines.  First  remove  the  waste  material 
at  the  back  of  the  dovetail,  leaving  the  end  the 
same  as  the  left-hand  end  of  the  halved  corner 
(Lesson  16).  Next  saw  in  from  the  edges  to  the 
oblique  lines  and  remove  the  triangular  piece  with 

a  chisel.  Hold  the 
piece  in  the  vise  and 
work  from  the  end, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  69. 
It  is  very  essential 
that  the  sides  of  the 
dovetail  be  exactly 
square  with  the  sur- 

Fig.69.     Working  a  Dovetail  in  a Vise,     face       and    the    trv- 

square  should  be  used  on  these  sides  very  carefully, 
the  piece  being  removed  from  the  vise  each  time 
in  order  to  look  toward  the  light. 

After  completing  the  dovetail  and  testing  it 
carefully,  place  it  in  position  on  the  face  side  of  the 
other  piece.  Mark  very  fine  lines  indicating  where 
the  piece  is  to  be  cut  out  to  receive  the  dovetail. 
Remove  the  dovetail  and,  with  the  try-square 
blade  used  as  a  straight  edge,  draw  lines  just  inside 
of  the  fine  lines.  Draw  lines  from  the  ends  of  these 
lines  down  to  the  gauge  lines  on  each  side.  Saw 
and  chisel  the  opening  for  the  dovetail  the  same 


76  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

as  in  working  the  gain  for  the  tee  (Lesson  18,  Figs. 
54  and  66). 

This  joint  must  fit  together  sufficiently  close 
to  require  no  gluing.  The  end  of  the  dovetail  may 
be  finished  with  the  plane  the  same  as  the  halved 
corner  (Lesson  17,  Fig.  61).  The  ends  are  to  be 
finished  by  sawing  with  the  backsaw  close  up  to 
the  knife  line.  The  ends  are  finished  in  this  manner 
in  order  to  give  practice  in  sawing  exactly  to  a 
line,  as  in  Lesson  10.  If  you  are  unable  to  saw  the 
ends  neatly,  practice  on  a  piece  of  waste  material 
of  a  similar  size.  Do  no  sawing  except  when  you 
have  correct  knife  lines  drawn  entirely  around  the 
piece.  If  the  sawing  is  well  done  the  piece  will  fit 
closely  to  another  piece  when  placed  against  it,  and 
yet  the  knife  line  will  be  visible  around  the  end. 
Joints  are  often  made  entirely  by  sawing,  no  smooth- 
ing being  done  with  chisel,  plane,  or  other  edge  tool. 
Do  not  plane  the  sides  or  use  any  sandpaper  on  this 
joint. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


77 


LESSON  XXI 
Slip  Mortise  and  Tenon 

Stock  and  finished  sizes  are  the  same  as  for  the 
halved  cross  (Lesson  19). 

Lay  off  and  work  each  end  as  indicated  by  the 
drawing  (Fig.70)before  cutting  the  piece  in  two.  First 
set  the  gauge  to  f  inch  and  draw  the  lines  for 
the  side  of  the  mortise,  and  also  the  lines  for  the 


Fig.  70.     Slip  Mortise  and  Tenon. 


78  .  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

side  of  the  tenon  which  is  next  the  face  side.  Draw 
lines  across  the  ends  as  well  as  at  the  sides.  Set 
the  gauge  to  |-  inch  and  draw  the  lines  for  the 


Fig.  71.     Setting  a  Bit  to  Bore  a  Hole. 

other  side  of  the  tenon  and  mortise.  Measure 
1^5-  inches  from  each  end  and  draw  the  lines  for 
the  ends  of  the  tenon  and  mortise,  using  a  knife 
and  try-square.  In  drawing  the  lines  for  the  tenon 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


do  not  draw  across  the  tenon.     In  drawing  the  lines 
for  the  inside  end  of  the  mortise  begin  at  one  edge, 

drawing  a  line  \ 
inch  long  between 
the  gauge  lines, 
and  also  make  a 
mark  at  the  corner 
to  set  the  square 
by  in  carrying  the 
line  around  to  the 
other  side.  Set 
the  square  to  this 
mark,  and  make  a 
similar  mark  at 
the  opposite 

Fig.  73.     Ripping  Out  Waste  Material.       corner"        Set    the 

square    to    this 
mark,  and  draw  the  £  inch  line  at  the  end  of  the  mortise* 

With  the 
TV-inch  bit, 
bore  a  hole  at 
the  inside  end 
of  the  mortise, 
boring  half 
way  through 
from  each  side 
(see  Figs.  71, 
35,  and  36), 
and  review  what  is  said  about  boring  in  Lesson  9.  Set 


Fig.  78.      Finishing  the  Sides  of  the  Mortise. 
Compare  this  figure  with  the  next  one. 


80 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


the  piece  in  the  vise  at  an  angle  and,  with  the  ripsaw, 
saw  down  on  the  inside  of  the  lines,  leaving  a  small 
amount  of  material  to  smooth  with  the  chisel. 
The  piece  should  be  so  slanted 
that  you  begin  the  cut  on  the 
side  next  to  you,  and  when  the 
saw  has  cut  entirely  across  the  end 
reverse  the  piece  and  saw  the  other 
side  (Fig.  72).  By  using  this 
method  it  is  not  necessary  to 
watch  the  line  at  the  back  side. 
Continue  to  reverse  the  piece  as 
often  as  is  necessary  to  avoid  cut- 
ting any  on  the  side  away  from 
you.  The  tenon  may  be  sawed  in 
the  same  manner.  Lay  the  piece 
on  the  bench-hook  and  smooth  to  the  center  of  the 
lines,  as  shown  in  Figs.  73,  66,  53  A,  and  53  B.  Be 
very  careful  not  to  go  beyond  the  center  of  the 
lines,  for  if  you  do,  the  joint  will  be  loose.  Use  a 
narrow  chisel  in  testing  the  sides,  as  in  Fig.  75.  To 
finish  the  inside  end  of  the  mortise  use  a  |  inch 
chisel,  as  shown  in  Fig.  76.  The  sides  of  the  mortise 
may  be  worked  with  the  piece  in  position,  as  in 
Fig.  74. 

After  you  have  the  joint  properly  fitted,  cut  it 
in  two  and  clamp  it  as  shown  in  Fig.  77.  Notice 
the  little  block  at  the  end  which  keeps  the  clamp 
from  hitting  the  end  of  the  tenon.  Use  another 


fig.  74.      finishing 
the  Mortise. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  81 


Testing  the  Sides  of  the  Mortise  with  a  Narrow  Chisel. 


Fig.  77.      First  Clamp  on  the  Slip 
Mortise  and  Tenon. 


damp,  as  shown  in  Fig.  78,  with 

a  block  against  the  side  of  the 

Fig  76.    Squaring  the   tenon      Next  remove  the  second 

Inner    End    of    the 

Mortise.  clamp  and  place  it  as  shown  in 

Fig.  79.     Examine  the  joint  to  see  if  it  is  tight  at 


82 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  78.     Second  Clamp 
Slip  Mortise  and  Tenon. 

the  clamps  in  the  same 
order,  leaving  only 
the  last  clamp  on  the 
joint  while  the  glue  is 
drying.  Dress  the 
piece  to  shape  and  size 
the  same  as  the  halved 
corner  (Lesson  17). 
Sandpaper  carefully 
and  finish  with  two  or 
three  coats  of  shellac. 


the  sides  and  end,  and 
square  at  the  inside 
corner.  If  it  proves 
to  be  all  correct,  re- 
move the  clamps  and 
apply  the  glue.  When 
the  glue  has  dried  until 
it  is  stringy  or  cob- 
webby, place  the  pieces 
together  and  clam  p 
them  as  before.  Apply 


Fig.  79.     Third  Clamp  on  the  Slip 
Mortise  and  Tenon. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


83 


LESSON  XXII 
Through  Mortise  and  Tenon 

The.  stock  and   finished  sizes  are  the   same   as 
for  the  halved  cross  (Lesson  19). 


Fig.  80.     Through  Mortise  and  Tenon. 


84  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

This  joint  is  made  in  a  manner  similar  to  the 
slip  mortise  and  tenon  (Lesson  21).  The  chief 
difference  is  that,  as  the  mortise  is  enclosed  on 
all  four  sides,  we  cannot  use  a  saw  in  working  it. 
Instead  of  sawing  out  the  mortise  you  should  bore 
as  many  holes  as  can  be  made  half  way  through 
from  each  side  and  then  smooth  the  sides  and  ends 
with  the  chisel.  (See  Figs.  35,  36,  71,  73,  74,  75, 
and  76).  This  piece  should  fit  together  so  exactly 
that  it  will  not  require  gluing.  You  should  do  no 
work  on  either  the  mortise  or  tenon  after  the  piece 
has  been  cut  in  two. 

Dress  the  end  of  the  tenon  flush  with  the  edge 
of  the  cross  piece  by  using  a  plane,  as  in  Lesson  17, 
Fig.  61  If  the  work  is  well  done  the  face  side 
of  the  joint  will  be  exactly  even  when  the  pieces 
are  placed  together  It  must  be  considered 
a  very  serious  defect  if  the  face  surface  is  not 
even,  and  you  must  try  diligently  to  discover  the 
place  that  is  incorrect  It  may  happen  that  you 
have  the  face-marks  turned  one  each  way,  or  that 
you  were  careless  in  drawing  the  lines,  or  that  you 
did  not  draw  the  lines  for  both  mortise  and  tenon 
at  one  setting  of  the  gauge.  Any  of  these  mistakes 
must  be  considered  quite  serious  at  this  time.  You 
should  now  be  able  to  draw  lines  correctly  and 
work  to  them  with  considerable  accuracy.  Per- 
haps you  can  find  the  difficulty  and  yet  make  the 
joint  correct  After  you  have  done  your  best, 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


85 


finish  the  ends  by  sawing  as  explained  in  Lesson  20. 
Do  not  plane  the  sides  or  use  any  sandpaper  on  this 
joint. 


LESSON  XXIII 
Frame  Mortise  and  Tenon 

The  stock  and   finished   sizes  are   the*  same  as 
for  the  halved  cross  (Lesson  19). 


Fig.  81.     Frame  Mortise  and  Tenon, 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Lay  out  and  work  the  frame  mortise  and  tenon 
the  same  as  the  through  mortise  and  tenon,  except 
that  the  mortise  is  smaller 
and  near  one  end,  and 
the  tenon,  after  being 
worked  to  the  full  width 
of  the  piece,  is  gauged  to 
1  inch  wide  and  worked 
to  that  size.  Finish  both 
mortise  and  tenon  before 
cutting  the  piece  in  two. 
After  the  piece  is  together 
it  is  to  be  wedged  by 
inserting  a  wedge  in  the 
end  of  the  tenon  near  the 
outside  edge. 

To    make  the  wedge, 
select  a  bit   of   straight- 


82.     Splitting  Material  for 
a  Wedge. 


grained  pine  about  1  inch 
long,  and  split  a  piece 
from  it  about  \  inch  wide  and  J  of  an  inch  thick, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  82.  Lay  this  piece  on  the  bench- 
hook  with  one  end  against  the  vertical  side  and 
taper  it  as  shown  in  Fig.  83.  Turn  the  piece  over 
and  taper  the  other  side  in  the  same  manner,  giving 
the  wedge  a  sharp  wide  end.  Split  the  end  of  the 
tenon  with  a  chisel,  as  shown  in  Fig.  84,  and  insert 
the  wedge.  Drive  the  wedge  until  the  joint  is 
tight,  being  careful  not  to  drive  the  wedge  in  far 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  87 

enough  to  split  the  end  of  the  piece.     After  a  little 
experimenting  you  will  learn  that  a  chisel  is  by  far 


Fig.  88.     Making  a  Wedge. 

the  best  tool  to  use  for 
making  wedges  of  this 
kind.  Sometimesfor  larger 
joints  the  wedges  are  not 
sharpened  to  so  thin  an 
edge  and,  instead  of  split- 
ting the  tenon  with  the 
chisel,  a  saw  kerf  is  made 
in  it  before  it  is  put  into 
the  mortise.  Wedges  are 
not  used  as  much  now  as 

Splitting  a  Tenon.       .  ,      ,  i  j 

formerly  because  glue  and 
nails  are  so  cheap  and  often  far  better  to  use 
than  the  wedges. 

Finish  this  piece  by  planing  the  end  of  the   tenon 
and  also  the  end  of  the  mortised  piece  which  is  at 


88 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


the  corner.     Saw  the  outer  ends,  as  directed  in  Lesson 
20.      Do  not  plane  or  sandpaper  the  ends  or  sides. 

LESSON  XXIV 
Blind  Mortise  and  Tenon 

The   stock   and   finished  sizes   for   this  exercise 
are  the  same  as  for  the  halved  cross  (Lesson  19). 


Fig.  85.     Blind  Mortise  and  Tenon. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


89 


The  blind  mortise  and  tenon  is  worked  very 
much  like  the  through  mortise  and  tenon  (Lesson  22). 
In  the  blind  mortise  and  tenon  the  tenon  is  shorter 
and  cut  to  length  before  putting  together,  and  the 
mortise  is  lined  out  and  worked  entirely  from  the 
face  edge.  The  most  difficult  part  of  the  work  is 

to  beat  or 
work  the 
mortise  so  it 
will  be  at 
right  angles, 
or  square, 
with  the 
surface.  It 
must  be  also 
of  the  same 
size  at  both 
the  top  and 
bottomends. 
You  must 
also  guard 

Fig.  86.      Testing  the  Sides  of  the  Blind  Mortise.     a2;ainst    bor- 

ing  the  holes  entirely  through.  To  make  the  holes  of 
the  proper  depth  you  may  count  the  turns  of  the  bit 
or  use  a  gauge  on  the  bit.  For  most  work  it  is  best 
to  depend  on  counting  and  thus  avoid  the  bother 
of  setting  the  gauge.  The  sides  of  the  mortise  may 
be  tested  by  holding  a  chisel  against  the  side,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  86. 


90 


E I .EMENT ARY  WOODWORK 


When  both  the  mortise  and  tenon  are  completed, 
draw  lines  around  the  center  of  the  piece  and  saw 
it  apart.  Insert  the  tenon  and,  if  it  is  all  right, 
remove  it  and  chamfer  the  lower  end.  Next  make  two 
small  wedges  and,  after  splitting  the  end,  insert  them 
as  shown  in  Fig.  87.  W7ith  the  aid  of  the  hammer 
drive  the  tenon  to  place.  This  is  called  blind  wedg- 
ing, and  requires  good  judgment  and  experience  to 
make  the  wedges  of  just  the  cor- 
rect size,  so  that  the  joint  will  be 
tight  when  together,  and  yet  not  so 
tight  that  it  will  not  go  together. 
The  bottom  of  the  mortise  should 
be  quite  smooth  where  the  wedges 
strike  it,  or  the  wedges  may  turn 
to  one  side  and  not  enter  the 
tenon.  Sometimes  the  bottom 
of  the  mortise  is  made  wider  than 
the  top,  or  outer  end,  to  allow 
room  for  the  tenon  to  expand. 
Finish  the  ends  by  sawing,  as  instructed  in 
Lesson  20.  Do  not  plane  or  sandpaper  the  sides. 
Leave  them  with  the  face  marks  on,  just  as  they 
were  before  the  piece  was  cut  in  two.  This  is  to 
show  that  your  lines  were  correct,  and  that  the  work 
was  properly  done. 


Fig.  87.     Blind  Wedg- 
ing the  Blind  Mortise. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XXV 
Single  Dovetail 

The  stock  and  finished  sizes  are  the  same  as  for 
the  halved  cross  (Lesson  19). 

Line  out  the  end  for  the  pin  with  the  try-square, 
knife,  and  gauge.  Work  it  to  exact  size,  being 
careful  to  keep  the  edges  at  the  end  smooth  and  of 
correct  size.  With  try-square  and  knife  draw  the 


Fig.  88.     Single  Dovetail. 


92  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

lines  for  the  inside  end  of  the  mortise,  allowing  a 
little  to  be  dressed  off  after  the  piece  has  been  placed 
together.  Draw  lines  around  the  center  of  the  piece 
and  saw  it  in  two.  Do  not  forget  to  have  two  sets 
of  face-marks  on  the  piece  before  it  is  cut  in  two, 
for  the  face-marks  are  of  special  importance  in 
dovetailing.  Be  very  careful  to  have  the  face- 
marks  both  on  the  same  side  even  in  these  simple 
exercises,  for  unless  you  do  this  now  you  will  be 
pretty  certain  to  make  serious  mistakes  when  you 
try  to  make  drawers,  boxes,  etc. 

Set  the  pin  on  to  the  face  side  of  the  piece  which 
is  to  receive  it,  with  the  inside  edge  even  with  the 
line  drawn  for  the  inside  of  the  mortise.  Draw  a 
line  at  each  side  of  the  pin,  using  a  sharp  pencil 
or  knife.  Saw  the  sides  of  the  mortise,  as  in  Fig. 
72,  and  finish  the  mortise  with  a  chisel.  A  hole 
may  be  bored  at  the  inside  end  of  the  mortise,  or 
it  may  be  cut  out  entirely  with  a  chisel  and  mallet. 
In  case  no  hole  is  bored  first,  cut  down  from  each 
side  a  little  away  from  the  line  and,  after  the  piece 
of  material  has  been  removed,  finish  the  end  and 
sides  to  the  lines.  Sometimes  the  lines  made  on 
the  face  side  are  carried  around  to  the  other  side 
by  using  the  try-square  and  tee  bevel;  but  this  is 
not  the  ordinary  way,  for  with  a  little  practice  the 
mortise  may  be  worked  correctly  without  drawing 
these  lines  and  thus  save  much  time.  In  working 
a  mortise  for  a  dovetail  there  is  need  of  consider- 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


93 


able  care  in  keeping  the  chisel  from  jamming  the 
edges   beyond   the  lines. 

Glue   this   dovetail    together   and   finish   it   the 
same  as  the  slip  mortise  and  tenon  (Lesson  21). 

LESSON  XXVI 
Common  Dovetail 

Stock  12£  inches  long,  4£  inches  wide,  and  |  inch 
thick.    Dress  to  4  inches  wide  and  -ff  inch  thick. 


Fig.  89.     Common  Dovetail. 


94 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Square  the  ends  carefully,  testing  them  both 
from  the  face  side  and  the  face  edge.  In  squaring 
the  ends  of  this  piece  use  the  smooth  plane  as  directed 

in  squaring  the  end 
of  the  4-inch-wide 
piece  in  Lesson  29. 
Draw  lines  around 
each  end  to  mark 
the  inner  ends  of 
both  mortises  and 
pins.  These  lines 
should  be  about  ^ 
of  an  inch  farther 
from  the  ends  than 
the  thickness  of  the 
piece,  so  that  there 
will  be  some  material 
to  plane  off  after  the  joint  is  glued  together.  In  regular 
hand  dovetailing  the  pins  are  not  laid  out  by  any 
measure,  but  by  the  eye  unaided.  They  should  have 
the  general  size  and  shape  indicated  by  the  drawing, 
and  should  be  cut  to  nearly  correct  size  with  a  fine  rip- 
saw. They  should  then  be  finished  with  a  chisel.  The 
wide  side  of  the  pin  is  always  on  the  face  side  of  the 
piece,  or  the  side  which  forms  the  inside  of  the 
corner.  After  the  pins  are  carefully  smoothed 
set  them  on  end  on  the  face  side  of  the  piece  which 
is  to  receive  them  and  mark  around  them  with  a 
sharp  pencil  or  knife,  as  shown  in  Fig.  90.  Do  not 


Fig.  90.     Scribing  Around  the  Pins  for 
the  Mortises. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  95 

use  the  bit  in   working   these   mortises,    but  work 
them  entirely  with  the  chisels. 

Sometimes  dovetails  are  laid  out  of  exact  shape 
and  size,  the  pins  being  marked  on  both  sides  and 
ends,  and  the  mortises  lined  around  with  square 
and  tee  bevel  after  one  side  has  been  scribed  from 
the  pins.  Sometimes  the  mortises  are  made  first 
and  the  pins  scribed  from  them,  as  in  Fig.  92.  In 
common  drawer  dovetailing  the  ends  of  the  pins 
and  the  outside  of  the  mortises  are  battered  down 
with  a  hammer  after  the  joint  is  glued.  This 
battering  holds  the  joint  together  while  drying  and 
helps  to  fill  up  any  defects  in  the  joint.  In  our 
practice  work  it  is  better  to  make  the  joint  so  per- 
fect that  it  will  not  require  either  gluing  or  batter- 
ing. If  your  work  is  well  done,  place  the  pieces 
together  without  gluing  and  plane  off  the  waste 
material  at  the  corner  and  finish  the  outer  ends  as 
you  did  the  halved  dovetail  in  Lesson  20.  If  your 
piece  is  not  good  enough  to  finish  in  this  manner, 
cut  the  mortises  off,  refinish  the  pins,  and  try  again. 
Should  you  have  to  try  a  third  time,  cut  off  the  pins, 
refinish  the  mortises,  and  scribe  a  new  set  of  pins 
from  them.  This  form  of  dovetail  is  usually  used 
at  the  back  end  of  drawers  in  fine  hand-made  furn- 
iture. 


96 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XXVII 
Half  Blind  Dovetail 

Stock  and  finished  sizes  the  same  as  in  Lesson  26. 

Lay  out  and  work  the  pins  the  same  as  in  Lesson 
26,  Fig.  90,  except  that  the  narrow  edges  of  the  pins 
do  not  extend  through  to  the  back  or  outer  surface, 
about  |  inch  of  material  being  left  to  conceal  the 


Fig.  91.     Half  Blind  Dovetail. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


97 


joint,  as  shown  in  Figs.  91  and  92.  The  leaving  of  the 
£  inch  to  conceal  the  joint  requires  the  mortises  to 
be  made  { inch  less  in  length  than  the  thickness  of  the 
piece  which  is  to  receive  them.  This  length  must  be 

exactly  correct  before 
putting  together,  as 
there  is  no  opportunity 
to  dress  them  off  after- 
wards, as  is  the  case 
with  the  common  or 
open  dovetail.  The  pins 
may  be  dressed  off  after 
the  joint  has  been  put 
together,  and  are  there- 
fore left  long.  This 
extra  length  may  be 
used  to  batter  down 
is  glued,  the  same  as  described  in 


Fig.  92.      Scribing 
for  the  Pins. 


n  the  Mortises 


after  the  joint 
Lesson  26. 

Make  this  joint  so  perfect  that  it  will  not  require 
gluing  and  finish  it  with  two  coats  of  shellac.  This 
form  of  dovetail  was  used  for  many  years  for  the 
fronts  of  drawers,  but  machine  dovetailing  has  now 
taken  its  place  almost  entirely  except  for  expensive 
hand-made  work. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


PART  II 

Supplementary  Exercises 

The  following  exercises  are  not    usually  given 

to  the  whole 
class.  Some 
pupils  who  are 
especially 
quick  will  re- 
quire some 
work  in  ad- 
dition to  that 
given  to  the 
remainder  o  f 
the  class. 
Others  will 
have  projects 
which  contain 
elements  re- 
quiring a  study 
of  these  special 
problems 
These  exercises 
should  be  ex- 
ecuted with 
quite  as  much 
care  and  ac- 
of  the  book. 


Fig.  93. 
curacy    as 


Sawing  with  a  Hand  Saw. 
those    in    the    body 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XXVIII 
Getting  Out  Stock 

Where  there  are  no  power  saws  it  will  be  necessary 
to  get  out  stock  by  hand.     This  will  require  two 

sawhorses,  a 
handsaw  and 
a  ripsaw. 
The handsaw 
should  be 
about  26 
inches  long 
and  have 
about  8 
points  to  the 
inch.  The 
r  i  p  s  a  w 
should  be 
about  28  in- 
c  h  e  s  long 
and  have 
about  6 
points  to  the 
inch. 

The  gen- 
eral  princi- 
plesinvolved 
in  getting 


Fig.  94.     Sawing  with  a  Ripsaw. 


100 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


out  stock  with  these  large  tools  are  much  the  same  as 
in  working  with  smaller  tools  on  the  bench.     Always 

take  such  a 
position  as  will 
allow  of  seeing  a 
right  angle  at  the 
side  of  the  saw. 
Avoid  a  position 
which  will  cause 
you  to  look 
directly  down 
upon  or  over  the 
saw.  The  general 
positions  are 
shown  in  Figs.  93, 
94,  and  95. 

For  making 
lines  on  rough 
lumber  use  a  car- 
penter's square 
(Fig.  197)  and 
one  or  two 
straight  edges. 
One  straight  edge 
should  be  about 
4  feet  long,  3  in- 
ches wide,  and  \ 
inch  thick.  Another  straight  edge  8  feet  long,  4 
inches  wide,  and  |  of  an  inch  thick  will  be  required 


Fig.  95.      Sawing  with  a   Try-Square  at 
the  Side  of  the  Saw. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  101 

where  many  long  pieces  are  worked.      For  drawing 
the  lines  use  a  carpenter's  pencil. 

Calculate  carefully  all  the  dimensions,  including 
all  the  allowances  for  working,  and  then  draw  the 


A  Plane  Used  as  a  Straight  Edge. 


lines  carefully  and  saw  to  the  lines.  Each  piece 
of  rough  lumber  should  be  examined  carefully  be- 
fore laying  out,  and  the  lines  made  with  proper 
regard  for  grain,  knots,  sap,  worm  holes,  etc.  Often 
a  small  knot,  when  it  can  not  be  cut  out,  may  be 
placed  well  away  from  the  sides  or  ends  where  it 
will  do  little  or  no  harm.  Twisting  and  bending 
while  working  are  often  the  result  of  poor  judgment 
in  cutting  out  the  stock.  A  constant  watch  for 
these  points  will  save  much  time  and  material. 


102  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Probably  the  most  common  error  in  getting 
out  stock  is  to  work  all  of  a  board  or  plank  into  one 
sort  of  stock,  when  by  using  a  part  for  one  exer- 
cise and  leaving  the  remainder  for  a  different  exer- 
cise would  give  better  results  and  save  much  extra 
labor  and  material.  In  dressing  wide  stock  the 
plane  may  be  used  as  a  straight  edge,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  96. 

LESSON  XXIX 
Bench-Hook 

Stock — One  piece  14^  inches  long,  4|  inches  wide, 
and  |  inch  thick;  two  pieces  each  12J  inches  long, 
1\  inches  wide,  and  £  inch  thick. 

Dress  the  wide  piece  to  4  inches  and  as  thick  as 
it  will  work.  Be  quite  as  careful  in  planing  these 
pieces  out  of  wind  and  straight  as  you  were  in  work- 
ing the  first  piece  (Lessons  1  to  4).  Draw  knife  lines 
around  one  end  and  saw  it  off  the  same  as  for 
smoothing  the  end  with  a  chisel.  With  the  smooth 
plane  held  as  shown  in  Fig.  98,  plane  carefully 
to  the  line  at  the  corner  next  you,  but  do  not 
plane  to  the  opposite  corner.  When  you  have 
planed  down  to  the  line  at  the  nearest  corner, 
either  reverse  the  piece  or  step  to  the  opposite 
side  and  plane  the  end  square.  Test  the  end  with 
the  head  of  the  try-square  against  both  the  face 
side  and  the  face  edge.  Always  place  the  piece  as 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


104 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  98.      Planing  an  End  Square 
in  the  Vise. 

sharp  and  smooth,  but 
if  you  plane  the  least 
bit  beyond  the  lines, 
the  edge  will  be  rough. 
Therefore,  always  have 
lines  on  all  sides  and 
edges,  and  stop  exact- 
ly at  them.  If  by 
accident  you  split  one 
of  the  corners  you  may 
leave  this  end  to  be 
rounded  and  try  to  Fig. 
square  the  other  end;  but 


low  down  in  the  vise  as 
you  can  to  avoid  chat- 
tering. This  will  hold 
the  piece  more  rigid, 
and  consequently  there 
will  be  less  liability  to 
roughen  the  edges  or 
split  the  corners. 

If  by  mistake  you 
plane  beyond  the  lines, 
do  not  try  to  plane  by 
guess,  but  draw  other 
lines  on  both  sides  and 
edges.  You  will  notice 
that  if  you  stop  at  the 
lines  the  edges  will  be 


99.   Setting  Compasses  on  a  Rule. 

remember  that  if  you  do 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


105 


Fig.  100.     Striking  a  Circle  with  Compasses. 

not  plane  entirely  across  the  end  the  corner  will  not 
be  split. 

After  squaring  one  end  set 
the  compasses  to  2  inches  as 
shown  in  Fig.  99,  and  place 
one  point  12  inches  from  the 
square  end  and  at  the  center 
of  the  width,  and  strike  a  semi- 
circle,  making  the  extreme 
length  of  the  piece  14  inches. 
Hold  the  compasses  in  striking 
the  circle  as  shown  in  Fig.  100. 

With  the  backsaw  saw  the 

corners  off  near   to  the    circle. 

.  Fig.  101.      Chiseling  a 

Finish  the  circular  end  with  a        Round  End. 


106 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


chisel  (as  shown  in  Fig.  101),  using  a  shearing  cut 
as  in  chiseling  the  ends  of  the  first  piece  (Lesson  13). 
Test  the  circle  as  shown  in  Fig.  102.  Bore  a  hole 

at  the  center  of 
the  semicircle 
(asshownin  the 
drawing,  Fig. 
97),  with  a  -fr- 
inch  bit.  Re- 
member to  bore 
frombothsides. 
Dress  one  of 
the  2J  inch- 
wide  pieces  to  2 
inches  wide  and 
ff  inch  thick 
and  saw  the 
ends,  leaving 
just  enough  to 
finish  with  the 
plane,  the  same 

Fig.  102.     Testing  a  Round  End.  as     the     wide 

piece  which  you  have  just  completed.  This  piece 
may  be  only  1|  inches  wide,  yet  it  is  better  to 
have  it  2  inches  wide.  Should  you  split  the 
corners,  or  for  any  cause  need  to  reduce  it  in  width, 
you  may  do  so  rather  than  use  another  piece. 

With  the  gauge  set  at  \  inch,  mark  on  the  edge 
and    ends    for    the    chamfer  as  shown  in  Fig.  97. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


107 


Fig.  103.     Planing  a  Chamfer. 

of  the  bench  as 
you  can  to  work 
the  chamfer. 
The  lower  down 
the  piece  is  the 
less  liable  the 
plane  is  to  chat- 
ter or  split  the 
corner.  With 
the  plane  held  as 
shown  in  Fig. 
104,  plane  to  the 
lines  at  the  ends. 
The  plane  is  held 
at  an  angle  of 
about  45  de- 
grees, but  moved 
parallel  with  the 


With  the  smooth 
plane  dress  the 
corner  off  to  the 
gauge  lines,  hold- 
ing the  plane  as 
shown  in  Fig.  103. 
Place  the  piece  on 
end  in  the  vise, 
having  the  top 
end  of  the  piece 
as  near  to  the  top 


Fig.  104.     Planing  a  Chamfer  at  the  End. 


108 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


edge,  and  not  parallel  with  the  length  of  the  plane. 

If  the  plane 
is  in  proper 
condition, 
not  too  much 
set,  and  held 
properly,  the 
corners  will 
not  split. 

Work  the 
second  piece 
to  2  inches 


Fig.  105 A.     First  Step  in  Locating  the  Point 
at  Which  lo  Set  the  Compasses. 


wide,  -f|  inch 
thick,  and  12  in- 
ches long.  You 
should  be  able  to 
finish  the  ends 
of  this  piece  very 
nicely  with  the 
plane.  After  the 
ends  are  proper- 
ly squared  set 
the  compasses  to 
1  inch  as  shown 
in  Fig.  99.  Find 
the  point  at 
which  to  se  t 
them  for  mark- 
ing the  round 


3.  105B.      Second  St  . 

Point  at  Which  to  Set  the  Compasses. 


ep  in  Locating  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  109 

corner  (as  shown  in  Figs.  105 A  and  105B),  and 
scribe  quarter-circles  at  the  two  corners  opposite 
the  face  edge.  Saw  the  corners  off  and  then 
chisel  the  surface  the  same  as  the  round  end 
of  the  wide  piece.  Test  them  as  in  Fig.  102. 

With  the  gauge 
set  at  I  inch, 
line  the  corners  of 
the  edge  and  ends 
for  chamfering  as 
shown  in  Fig.  97, 
plane  the  chamfer 

Fifj.  106      Chiseling  a  Chamfer  on  a  Circle. 

at  the   edge   and 

on  the  straight  parts  of  the  ends  as  shown  in  Figs.  103 
and  104,  and  finish  the  chamfer  at  the  rounded  corner 
with  the  chisel  as  shown  in  Fig.  106.  The  circle 
may  be  chamfered  with  the  plane,  but  it  is  rather 
difficult  to  do  so.  In  rounding  ends  and  planing 
chamfers  on  ends  where  the  circle  is  of  large  radius, 
it  is  better  to  use  the  plane  rather  than  the  chisel. 
Nail  the  pieces  together  as  directed  in  Lesson  7. 
This  bench-hook  should  be  nice  enough  to  receive 
one  coat  of  shellac.  For  use  in  larger  work  one 
should  have  a  bench-hook  of  larger  size. 


110 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XXX 
Rabbeted  Joint 

Stock  8£  inches  long,  4|  inches  wide,  and  £  inch 
thick.     Work  the  piece  to  4  inches  wide  and  as  thick 


Fig.  107.     Rabbeted  Corner. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


111 


and  long  as  it  will  work.  Be  careful  to  have  it  out  of 
wind  and  the  ends  correct.  In  planing  the  ends 
observe  the  directions  given  in  Lesson  29. 

Draw  the  lines  for  cutting  the  rabbet,  following 
the  same  method  as  in  lining  for  the  gain  at  the  end 

of  the  halved 
corner  (Lesson 
16).  The  work- 
ing of  the  rabbet 
also  follows  the 
same  methods  as 
working  the 
halved  corner. 

Cut  the  piece 
in  two  and  finish 
Fig.  108.     Nailing  a  Rabbeted  Corner.         the  ends,  making 

the  model  4  inches  long  on  the  outside  when  com- 
pleted. Sandpaper  the  pieces,  except  at  the  joints, 
ready  for  shellacing  before  putting  together.  Start 
the  nails  as  directed  in  Lesson  7.  Place  the  rabbeted 
piece  in  the  vise  and  nail  the  other  piece  in  place, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  108.  For  nailing  use  five  H- 
inch  wire  brads.  Set  the  brads  about  ^  of 
an  inch  below  the  surface,  using  a  nailset  or  the 
head  of  a  brad  (Figs.  27  and  28).  Smooth  the 
joint  if  required,  and  fill  the  nail  holes  with 
putty  colored  to  match  the  wood.  Use  the  putty 
quite  hard  and  force  it  well  down  upon  the 
heads  of  the  brads.  After  the  putty  has  become 


112          ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

hard,  smooth  it  off  with  sandpaper  and  finish  the 
joint  with    two    coats    of   shellac. 

This  joint  is  used  to  a  very  great  extent  for  the 
front  end  of  cheap  drawer  sides  and  for  small  boxes. 
When  used  on  a  box  the  corner  is  of  ten  rounded  back 
to  the  joint,  and  it  will  then  finish  quite  neatly  in 
shellac  or  varnish. 

LESSON  XXXI 
Gained  and  Rabbeted  Corner 

The  stock  and  finished  sizes  are  the  same  for 
this  lesson  as  for  Lesson  30. 

The  rabbeted  end  is  worked  similar  to  the  one 
in  Lesson  30.  The  gain  is  worked  similar  to  the  one 
in  Lesson  18.  The  work  on  this  joint  must  be  well 
executed  in  order  to  have  it  hold  properly.  After 
the  pieces  are  worked  to  size  and  carefully  sand- 
papered as  directed  in  Lesson  30,  they  may  be 
glued  together  or  nailed. 

If  the  joint  is  to  be  glued,  it  will  be  much  stronger 
if  the  pieces  have  their  end  grain  properly  sized 
before  putting  together.  To  size  the  pieces  apply 
glue  to  the  end  grain  as  long  as  it  will  soak  in,  and 
then  apply  glue  to  the  other  parts  and  put  the 
pieces  together.  If  we  allow  the  glue  to  dry  hard, 
and  then  smooth  it  off  down  to  the  wood  before 
applying  the  glue  for  putting  together,  it  will  make 
the  joint  hold  even  better. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


113 


This  joint  is  used  on  box  and  drawer  corners 
and  similar  places.     This  joint,  and  also  the  one 


Y 


r 


Fig. 


Gained  and  Rabbeted  Corner. 


shown  in  Lesson  30,   may  be  made  entirely  on  a 
circular-sawing  machine.     For  this  reason  it  is  much 


114 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


used  in  small  shops  where  they  do  not  have  the 
more  expensive  machinery  for  dovetailing. 

LESSON  XXXII 
Bridle  Joint 


Fig.  110.     Bridle  Joint. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  115 

The  stock  for  this  joint  is  the  same,  and  worked 
the  same,  as  the  through  mortise  and  tenon, 
except  that  the  opposite  parts  are  cut  away.  Gauge 
the  same  as  the  through  mortise  and  tenon  (Lesson 
22).  Determine  the  width  of  the  gains  at  each  side 
either  by  superposition  as  in  Lesson  18,  or  by 
measurement  as  in  Lesson  22.  This  exercise 
is  an  excellent  test,  for  if  the  piece  is  not  worked 
to  exact  size  and  all  four  corners  square,  the  in- 
accuracy will  be  likely  to  cause  an  open  joint.  Slip 
the  piece  together  and  finish  the  same  as  the  through 
mortise  and  tenon  (Lesson  22).  Do  not  plane  the 
sides  or  use  any  sandpaper  to  smooth  the  joint. 

This  joint  is  very  seldom  used  outside  of  school. 

LESSON  XXXIII 
Haunched  Mortise  and  Tenon 

The  stock  for  this  exercise  and  the  finished 
sizes  are  the  same  as  used  in  Lesson  19. 

This  exercise  illustrates  a  variety  of  modifica- 
tions of  the  common  mortise  and  tenon,  and,  when 
properly  understood,  should  enable  one  to  make 
any  of  the  large  variety  of  modifications.  All  of 
the  irregular-shaped  tenons  depend  upon  care  in 
selecting  the  proper  order  for  working  the  various 
angles  and  shoulders,  and  in  always  keeping  a  face, 
or  definite  surf  ace,,  to  line  from,  and  working  care- 
fully to  the  lines  at  each  step.  Where  a  part  of 


116 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


the  tenon  is  to  be  cut  away  as  in  Lesson  23,  frame 
mortise  and  tenon,  and  in  this  exercise  you  must 
be  especially  careful  to  keep  the  surface  of  the  tenon 
correct  from  edge  to  edge,  so  that  when  a  part  of 
the  tenon  is  cut  away  you  will  not  lose  your  cor- 
rect edges. 


Fig.  111.     Haunched  Mortise  and  Tenon. 

With  these  facts  in  mind  you  should  be  able  to 
make  this  exercise  from  the  drawing  by  reviewing 
Lesson  23.  The  difference  between  these  exercises 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  117 

is  in  the  leaving  of  a  shoulder  on  the  tenon  to  fit 
into  the  groove  which  extends  the  entire  length  of 
the  piece  that  contains  the  mortise.  This  arrange- 
ment is  common  to  joints  used  about  paneling. 
The  groove  is  usually  worked  with  a  plow;  but 
in  this  case  you  will  work  it  by  drawing  gauge  lines 
at  each  edge  of  the  groove  and  at  the  ends,  and 
remove  the  waste  material  with  a  chisel. 


LESSON  XXXIV 
Dowel  Joint 

The  stock  for  this  exercise  is  the  same  size, 
and  worked  to  the  same  size,  as  that  used  in  Les- 
son 19. 

It  is  often  better  to  connect  two  pieces  with 
dowels  instead  of  with  mortises  and  tenons.  Dowel- 
ing is  used  much  more  at  present  than  formerly, 
and  for  some  lines  of  work  is  to  be  preferred. 

Work  the  stock  to  size  and  carefully  square  the 
end  which  is  to  receive  the  dowels.  Draw  a  line 
with  the  gauge  at  the  end  which  is  to  receive  the 
dowels.  This  line  should  be  at  the  center  of  the 
piece  and  parallel  with  the  sides.  With  the  knife 
and  try-square  draw  a  line  on  the  face  of  the  other 
piece  which  will  exactly  coincide  with  the  line  drawn 
on  the  end  of  the  first  piece.  It  is  sometimes  better 
to  lay  the  pieces  in  position  as  they  will  be  when 
the  joint  is  complete,  and  with  the  point  of  the 


118 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Knife  blade  make  a  mark  on  both  pieces  at  the 
same  time,  as  shown  in  Fig.  113.  Next  set  the  gauge 
to  the  mark  on  the  end,  and  extend  it  across  the  end. 
With  the  try-square  and  knife  extend  the  other  mark 


Fig.  112.     Dowel  Joint. 

across  the  face  of  the  other  piece.  With  the  gauge 
set  at  £  inch  and  the  head  against  the  face  edge, 
draw  short  lines  crossing  the  other  two  lines.  Set 
the  gauge  to  1^  inches  and  draw  two  other  short  lines. 
With  the  f-inch  bit  bore  a  hole  at  each  of  the  four 
places  marked  by  the  crossing  of  the  lines.  Be 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  119 

very  careful  to  have  the  holes  center  exactly  where 
the  lines  .cross.  Remember  not  to  bore  entirely 
through  the  piece  which  has  the  holes  in  its  face  side. 
Bore  about  1|  inches  into  the  end.  Cut  two  dowels 
2  inches  long  from  f-inch  dowel  rod.  After  plac- 
ing glue  on  the  dowels  and  in  the  holes,  force  the  pins 
to  the  bottom  of  the  short  holes  either  by  using  a 

hammer  or  a 
clamp.  Then  place 
the  other  piece  in 
position  and  force 
it  to  place  with  a 
clamp.  Dowels 
and  other  joints 
which  cannot  be 
forced  together  by 
hammering  may 
sometimes  be 
forced  together  by 

Fig.  113.     Locating  Holes  for  Doweling,      using  clamps.    Itis 

usual  to  point  the  pins  alittle.  Ifcoldglueisusedallowit 
to  become  quite  dry  before  putting  the  pieces  together. 
Glue  on  the  end  and  surface  of  the  pieces  will 
help  to  make  a  good  joint  for  finishing,  although  it  is 
not  likely  that  it  will  add  much  to  the  strength  unless 
the  end  grain  is  first  sized  with  glue.  (For  direc- 
tions for  sizing  see  Lesson  31.)  Glued  dowels  are  used 
only  when  one  or  both  pieces  are  joined  at  their  ends. 
Dowels  should  not  be  used  in  regular  glue  joints. 


120 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


LESSON  XXXV 

Special  Dovetail  Joint 

Stock— One  piece  8  inches  long,  4£  inches  wiae, 
and  |  inch  thick;  one  piece  8  inches  long,  4j  inches 

wide, and  \ 
inch  thick. 

These  pieces 
are  dressed  to 
4  inches  wide 
and  as  thick  as 
they  will  work. 
Be  sure  that 
they  are  out  of 
wind. 

The  forms 
of  dovetailing 
shown  in  Les- 
sons 26  and  27 


require  more 
time  to  make 
than  is  some- 
times desirable, 
therefore  a 

Fig.  114.     Special  Dovetail  Joint.  f  °  r  m     havhl? 

fewer    pins    is 

used.     You  must  ever  keep  in  mind  that  the  form, 
number  of  pins,  their  size,  shape,  etc.,  are  subject  to 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  121 

all  the  variations  which  may  arise  from  the  use  of 
various  kinds  or  grades  of  wood  and  the  places  in 
which  the  joints  are  to  be  used.  The  particular 
form  shown  in  the  lesson  is  only  a  type  to  indicate 
the  possible  variations.  These  different  forms  may 
be  either  open,  as  shown,  or  half  blind,  as  shown 
in  Lesson  27.  The  general  method  of  working 
all  the  forms  is  the  same,  and  may  be  understood 
by  reviewing  Lessons  26  and  27. 

LESSON  XXXVI 
Miter  Joint 

The  stock  for  this  piece  and  the  finished  sizes 
are  the  same  as  for  the  halved  corner  (Lesson  16). 

This  form  of  joint,  though  often  used,  is  too  difficult 
for  elementary  work  except  in  its  most  simple  form. 

The  angle  at  which  the  ends  are  cut  is  exactly 
the  diagonal  of  a  square,  and  therefore  any  method 
that  will  give  the  diagonal  of  a  square  will  give  the 
line  for  the  miter.  The  easiest  way  for  the  student 
in  woodwork  to  get  the  correct  angle  is  to  draw 
a  square  at  the  end  of  the  piece  and  then  draw  the 
diagonal  as  shown  in  Fig.  116  A.  The  point  A  is  as 
far  from  the  point  C  as  the  point  B  is  from  the  point 
C,  or  the  distance  A  C  is  equal  to  the  width  of  the 
piece.  When  several  miters  are  to  be  cut,  the  tee 
bevel  (Fig.  116  B)  may  be  set  to  the  line  A  B  and  the 
other  miter  lines  drawn  with  it. 


122 


ELEMENTA R Y  WOODWORK 


In  making  miter-jointed  frames,  etc.,  take  special 
care  to  have  the  face  side  and  face  edge  straight, 
square,  and  out  of  wind,  and  then  be  particular  to 


^ 


>^ 


X 


y^"         i      Fig.  115.     Common  Miter  Joint. 

draw  all  lines  and  make  all  tests  from  the  face  side 
or  face  edge.  Saw  the  miter  near  the  line  and 
finish  with  a  plane,  as  shown  in  Fig.  117.  As  the 
cut  is  not  square  across  the  end,  the  plane  may  cut 
all  from  one  edge.  Holding  the  plane  at  an  angle, 
as  shown  in  Fig  98,  is  sometimes  necessary  to 
avoid  splitting  at  the  extreme  point. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  116 A.  Fig.  116B.     Setting  the  Tee  Bevel. 

As  the  miter  presents  end  grain,  it  is  usual  to 

nail  the 
jointrath- 
er  than  to 
depend 
upon  glue. 
If  the 
joint  is 
well  sized 
as  de- 

Fig.  117.     Planing  a  Miter  in  a  Vis?,  Scribed  in 

Lesson  31,  the  glue 
will  aid  much  in  hold- 
ing the  joint  in  place. 
If  glue  is  used,  before 
applying  it  start  all 
the  nails  and  drive 
them  in  sufficiently  to 
make  it  easy  to  bring 
the  joint  to  place  after 
the  glue  is  applied. 
Then  separate  the  Fig.118.  Miter JmniGluedandV tamped 


124  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

parts  and  apply  the  glue.     This  joint  may  be  clamped 
as  shown  in  Fig.    118. 

There  are  many  ways  of  securing  the  corners 
of  frames  which  are  mitered.  Some  of  these  methods 
are  very  simple  and  easy  when  one  has  the  special 
tools  required  to  use  them.  There  are  some  forms 
of  special  nails  or  fasteners  which  may  be  used  by 
any  one  who  is  capable  of  fitting  the  joint. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


125 


LESSON  XXXVII 
Slip  Mortise  and  Miter 

The  stock  for  this  joint  and  the  finished  sizes 
are  the  same  as  for  Lesson  19. 


Fig.  119.    Slip  Mortise  and  Miter. 

This  joint  is  simply  a  combination  of  the  joints 
shown  in  Figs.  70  and  115.  By  carefully  reviewing 
Lessons  21  and  36  you  should  have  no  difficulty  in 
making  this  joint.  This  joint  should  be  thoroughly 


126  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

clamped  as  shown  in  Figs.  77,  78,  and  79.  Place 
some  paper  between  the  blocks  at  the  face  and 
back  of  the  joint  to  keep  the  glue  which  is  forced 
from  the  joint  from  sticking  the  blocks  or  clamps 
to  the  joint. 

This  is  a  strong  joint  for  frames,  etc.,  but  is  not 
often  used,  because  of  the  time  required  to  make  it. 

LESSON  XXXVIII 
Glue  Joint 

It  is  often  necessary  to  glue  together  narrow  strips 
or  boards  to  make  one  wide  piece.  This  is  not  a  very 
difficult  operation  if  one  has  learned  to  control  the 
plane  properly.  The  first  step  is  to  select  lumber 
suitable  for  such  work  and  mark  the  sides  which 
are  to  be  the  face  of  the  finished  piece.  Also,  mark 
plainly  the  way  of  the  grain,  so  that  when  the  pieces 
are  together  they  may  all  be  planed  from  the  same 
direction.  (Fig.  120). 

Examine  the  planes  and  be  certain  that  they 
are  sharp  and  not  too  much  rounded,  and  that  they 
will  cut  a  shaving  of  good  width  but  little  thicker 
at  the  center  than  at  the  edges.  The  cutting  edge 
should  not  be  absolutely  straight,  neither  should 
it  be  much  curved. 

Place  one  piece  on  edge  in  the  vise  and  joint  the 
edge  carefully.  Then  lay  it  aside  and  joint  the 
edge  of  the  other  piece  which  is  to  join  the  edge 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK          127 

first  jointed.  It  is  not  necessary  to  use  a  try-square 
on  these  edges.  They  should  be  at  right  angles  to 
the  surface  of  the  piece,  yet  if  they  vary  a  little  it 
does  not  matter  so  long  as  they  make  a  level  joint, 
and  the  pieces  do  not  slip  sidewise  in  the  clamps. 
In  making  a  glue  joint  a  regular  mechanic  would 
never  think  of  using  a  try-square.  When  you 
think  you  have  the  second  edge  correct,  set  the 
first  piece  on  it  and  test  with  a  straight  edge,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  120,  to  see  if  the  pieces  wilf  make  a 
true  surface.  Next  examine  the  joint  carefully 
from  both  sides  and  ends,  as  shown  in  Fig.  121. 
Continue  to  plane  and  test  the  joint  in  this  manner 
until  it  gives  a  true  surface  and  the  edges  come  in 
perfect  contact  the  entire  length.  Pressing  down 
upon  the  corners  will  help  to  show  defective  ends. 
Also  try  rapping  the  under  board.  There  should 
not  be  the  slightest  opening  at  the  extreme  ends 
even  if  the  ends  are  to  be  cut  off  in  finishing  the 
piece.  When  the  joint  is  correct  there  will  be  a 
peculiar  sensation  of  suction,  or  adhesion,  as  you 
gently  push  or  pull  the  top  board  on  the  under  one. 
Do  not  attempt  to  glue  the  joint  until  it  is  correct 
as  shown  by  each  of  these  tests.  Always  put  the 
pieces  into  the  clamps  to  see  if  they  are  all  right 
before  applying  any  glue. 

Probably   the  most  common  errors   in    making 
glue  joints  are  to  suppose  that  the  joint  does  not 


128 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


require  to  be  perfectly  tight  on  the  under  or  back  side, 
and  that  dowels  may  be  properly  used  in  such  joints. 
If  you  are  to  use  cold  glue  for  the  joint,  be  care- 
ful to  have  it  sufficiently  thin  to  soak  well  into  the 
joint  before  putting  together.  Also  have  plenty 


Fig.  ISO.     Examining  a  Glue  Joint  urifh  a  Straight  Edge. 

of  strong  clamps.  Allow  the  glue  to  become  almost 
glazed  before  clamping  the  joint.  Lay  the  clamps 
so  that  the  joint  will  not  be  in  wind,  and  use  a  suffi- 
cient number  to  expel  every  visible  bit  of  glue  as 
seen  from  the  edge.  The  joint  must  be,  in  fact, 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


129 


wood  to  wood  if  it  is  to  hold  properly.     Equal  care 
must  be  taken  with  hot  glue,  but  less  clamping  will 


Fig.  121.     Examining  a  Glue  Joint. 

suffice   to   expel    the   surplus   glue.      In   using   hot 
glue  you  must  be  certain  that  everything  is  ready 


130  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

for  clamping  before  applying  the  glue.  The  clamps 
should  all  be  in  position  and  adjusted,  so  that  the 
pieces  may  be  put  in  place  and  the  clamps  tightened 
with  the  least  possible  loss  of  time.  As  hot  glue 
will  not  hold  if  clamped  too  slowly,  so  cold  glue  will 
not  hold  if  clamped  too  quickly.  Considerable 
experience  and  judgment  are  required  to  get  the 
best  results  with  either.  When  properly  used 
there  is  little  if  any  difference  in  the  holding  power 
of  the  two  kinds  of  glue.  When  the  joint  is  poorly 
made  the  cold  glue  will  hold  better  than  the  hot 
glue.  With  the  inexperienced  the  additional  time 
allowed  in  clamping  the  cold  glue  is  quite  an  ad- 
vantage. When  much  gluing  is  to  be  done,  the 
hot  glue  is  to  be  preferred  because  the  piece  may 
be  taken  from  the  clamps  much  sooner,  thus  saving 
a  great  deal  of  time  and  not  requiring  so  many 
clamps.  Care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  cold  glue 
from  becoming  thick.  The  hot  glue  soon  loses  its 
strength  by  repeated  heatings. 

LESSON  XXXIX 
Making  an  Octagon 

This  exercise  may  be  made  from  any  defective 
piece  of  regular  stock  that  will  dress  to  at  least  1 
inch  square  and  1  foot  long. 

The  piece  should  be  exactly  square  and  the  ends 
exactly  alike.  Draw  lines  at  each  corner  ^  of  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


131 


total  distance  across  the  side  from  each  edge.  To 
get  the  distance  at  which  to  set  the  gauge,  lay  the 
rule  on  the  piece  at  such  an  angle  as  will  give  10 


Fig.  122.     Octagon.  . 

equal  divisions  and  mark  off  3  of  the  10  divisions 
as  shown  at  A,  Fig.  123.  Set  the  gauge  to  this  dis- 
tance by  plac- 
ing the  spur  in 
the  mark  made 
by  the  knife 
point  and  mov- 
ing the  head  up 
against  the  side 
of  the  piece. 
Draw  the  8 
lines,  all  equal- 
ly distant  from 

Fig.  123.     Marking  3-10  with  a  Rule. 


without  regard  to  the  face-marks.. 


the  four  corners 
Draw  the  lines 
lightly,  and  be  careful  to  leave  the  lines  as  you  plane 
off  the  corners.  If  you  wish  to  have  a  very  nice 
piece  of  work,  use  a  pencil  point  instead  of  the 
spur.  (See  Fig.  154.) 


132 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


After  planing  the  corners  test  each  side  at  each 

end  to  see  that 
all  are  equal. 
If  you  will 
mark  each 

Fig.  12A.     Planing  an  Octagon  in  a  Vise.  .  -.          . , , 

side   with   an 

X  before  planing  the  corners  off  you  will  have 
less  difficulty  in 
making  the  tests. 
On  larger  pieces 
you  can  take  -fa 
of  the  distance 
across  the  side 
instead  of  ^-. 
This  is  the  dis- 
tance used  b  y 
carpenters  in 
squaring  timbers 
and  is  nearer  the  correct  distance.  In  planing, 
the  piece  may  be  held  in  the  vise  (Fig.  124),  or 
placed  against  the  bench  stop  (Fig.  125). 


Fig.  125.      Planing  an  Octagon  Against  a 
Bench-Stop. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  133 

LESSON  XL 
Making  a  Cylinder 

Make  an  octagon  as  directed  in  Lesson  39.  Be 
certain  to  have  every  side  and  angle  correct.  Any 
variation  in  the  octagon  is  quite  likely  to  show  in 
the  cylinder.  Gauging  the  piece  with  the  eye, 
plane  off  each  corner,  making  the  piece  16  sided. 
Then  again  plane  each  corner,  making  the  piece 
32  sided.  Continue  planing  the  corners,  each  time 
doubling  the  number  of 
sides  until  the  piece  is 
practically  cylindrical. 

With  a  half  sheet  of  No.  2 
sandpaper,  used  as  shown  in 
Fig.   126,   remove  all   plane 
mark  s.      Finish  with  finer 
grades  of  paper  used  in  the 
same  manner  until  the  piece 
Fig.  126.     Sandpapering  a    is    smooth    and    cylindrical. 
Cylinder.  Usually    the  piece  is  simply 

moved  endwise  in  the  bent,  but  not  folded  or  broken, 
paper;  but  sometimes,  when  the  piece  is  quite  rough, 
it  is  first  revolved  and  then  finished  by  moving 
endwise.  The  piece  should  be  often  reversed  and 
not  sanded  too  much  at  the  ends.  When  finished 
it  should  feel  quite  cylindrical  when  held  in  the  hand. 


134  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

LESSON  XLI 
Making  a  Pointer 

Dress  the  two  adjoining  faces  of  a  piece  about 
3  feet  long  and  about  f  of  an  inch  square.  Dress 
the  third  side,  making  the  piece  f  of  an  inch  thick 
at  the  large  end,  and  f  of  an  inch  thick  at  the  small 
end.  Dress  the  fourth  side,  making  the  piece  f  of 
an  inch  square  at  one  end  and  f  of  an  inch  square 
at  the  other  end. 

Lay  off  the  piece  at  each  end  and  at  the  middle 
for  an  octagon,  as  directed  in  Lesson  39,  Fig.  123. 
Draw  gauge  lines  at  both  ends  and  at  the  center 
about  an  inch  long  on  all  four  sides.  By  the  aid  of 
these  three  sets  of  points  or  gauge  lines  plane  off 
the  corners,  making  the  piece  exactly  eight-sided. 
Continue  planing  the  corners,  as  in  making  the 
cylinder  (Lesson  40),  until  the  piece  is  substantially 
cylindrical.  Finish  with  sandpaper  in  the  same 
manner  as  you  have  finished  the  cylinder.  This 
pointer  should  have  two  or  three  coats  of  shellac. 

LESSON  XLII 
Making  a  Hexagon 

Dress  a  piece  to  1  inch  by  1£  inches  wide. 
Draw  lines  at  the  centers  of  the  1-inch  sides.  Divide 
the  other  two  sides  into  four  parts  and  draw  lines 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


135 


parallel  with  the  edges,  omitting  the  center  lines. 
Dress  off  the  corners  to  these  lines,  making  6  equal 
sides. 

This  method  appears  to  make  the  hexagon  too 
large  on  one  of  its  long  diameters,  but,  as  the  tend- 


12" 


— I 
Hexagon. 


U-f 


Fig.  127. 

ency  is  to  dress  off  a  little  too  much  at  the  ends  of 
this  diameter  in  planing  the  adjacent  sides,  the 
result  will  generally  be  a  substantially  correct  hex- 
agon. The  piece  should  be  carefully  tested  on  all 
sides  at  each  end  with  the  rule. 


136  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

PART  III 
Introduction 

It  is  not  the  intention  of  the  author  to  give  in 
this  part  a  catalogue  of  tools,  but  rather  to  illustrate 
and  describe  such  few  tools  as  may  be  required  in 
these  exercises.  The  information  given  is  that 
which  is  thought  to  be  of  value  to  such  pupils  in 
elementary  woodwork  as  will  use  this  book. 

There  should  be  in  every  class  room  a  complete 
catalogue  of  tools  as  furnished  by  some  dealer.  The 
more  enterprising  pupils  will  secure  for  themselves 
from  the  dealers  such  catalogues  as  will  be  of  use.  In 
some  of  these  trade  publications  will  be  found  the 
latest  and  most  practical  information  on  tools. 

Some  dealers  will  be  pleased  to  furnish  their 
retail  catalogues  free  of  charge;  others  have  a  fixed 
price  which  they  charge  except  when  the  catalogue  is 
sent  out  with  a  bill  of  tools.  Every  boy  who  is  suffi- 
ciently enterprising  to  make  good  use  of  a  catalogue 
will  be  able  to  secure  one. 

We  wish  to  advise  such  boys  or  parents  as  will 
purchase  individual  sets  for  home  use  ever  to  bear 
in  mind  that  nothing'  is  gained  by  using  a  large 
variety  of  tools  at  the  start.  A  few  tools  carefully 
selected  and  carefully  and  earnestly  used  will  do  far 
more  good  than  is  possible  with  a  large  number  of 
tools  at  the  start.  The  quality  of  tools  should  be 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  137 

the  best,  which  means  that  no  fancy  or  combination 
tools  should  be  purchased.  Such  tools  have  their 
place,  but  that  place  is  not  in  the  kit  of  the  beginner. 
Such  appliances  as  miter  boxes,  expansion  bits, 
molding  or  fancy  planes,  chisel  grinders,  spoke- 
shaves,  wood  files,  and  such  tools  should  not  be  used 
in  this  grade  of  work.  There  are  no  doubt  times 
when  such  things  would  be  handy,  but  their  presence 
in  the  boy's  kit  of  tools  at  this  time  will  do  a  great 
deal  of  harm. 

APRON 

Boy's  Apron 

For  bench  aprons  for  boys,  get,  according  to  the 
height  of  the  boy,  from  1 J  to  1|  yards  of  blue  and 
white  plaid  shirting  or  jumper  cloth,  or,  if  plain 
color  is  preferred,  blue  or  brown  denim  or  overall 
cloth.  Fold  the  piece  in  the  center  lengthwise,  and 
from  one  end  cut  out  such  a  piece  at  one  corner  of 
the  material  as  will  leave,  when  the  piece  is  unfolded, 
a  bib  at  the  center  top  eight  or  ten  inches  wide.  The 
piece  cut  out  should  form  a  curve  from  the  top  of 
the  bib  to  the  edge  of  the  material  at  the  waist  line. 

Hem  the  bottom  of  the  apron  and  the  top  of  the 
bib  with  a  wide  hem  and  make  a  narrow  hem  around 
the  curves.  From  the  material  cut  away,  make  a 
strap  of  such  length  that  when  it  is  fastened  at  its 
ends  to  the  corners  of  the  bib  it  will  pass  easily  over 


138  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

the  head.  Also  make  straps  to  fasten  at  the  lower 
ends  of  the  curved  portion  and  tie  behind.  No 
pockets  are  required  and  are  a  disadvantage,  as  they 
catch  shavings  and  dirt.  Figs.  31,  35,  52,  and  86 
show  how  such  aprons  appear  when  in  use. 


Girl's  Apron 

Any  preferred  material,  such  as  gingham,  calico, 
white  or  black  goods,  may  be  used  for  the  girl's  apron. 
Some  very  much  prefer  the  yard-wide  black  mercer- 
ized goods,  and  in  this  width  for  medium  height 
4J  yards  will  be  required.  For  girls  ten  to  twelve 
years  of  age  3  yards  will  ordinarily  be  sufficient. 

Cut  the  apron  sack  front  and  back,  open  and 
hem  the  entire  length  at  the  back.  Have  the 
neck  large  enough  to  accommodate  the  neck  dressing. 
The  long  sleeves  should  be  gathered  into  tight  bands 
fastened  at  the  hand.  A  broad  band  fastened  on 
the  side  seam  at  the  waist  line  and  buttoned  at  the 
seam  on  the  opposite  side  will  hold  any  fullness 
from  falling  forward.  Buttons  and  button  holes 
should  be  placed  at  the  top  and  center  of  the  back 
and  at  the  waist  line.  No  pockets  are  required 
in  this  apron.  Figs.  71,  98,  and  104  show  various 
styles  of  aprons  in  use. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  139 


Bench 

The  woodworker  should  take  pride  in  keeping 
his  bench  in  order.  The  bench-board  or  bench- 
hook  should  be  used  to  avoid  injuring  the  bench. 
Never  should  the  knife  or  any  other  tool  be  stuck 
in  the  bench  top.  In  starting  nails  be  careful  not 
to  drive  them  through  into  the  bench.  Boring 
must  be  done  in  the  vise  or  on  a  board  or  the  bench- 
hook  in  order  to  avoid  making  holes  in  the  bench. 

Once  each  week  the  top  should  be  thoroughly 
rubbed  with  oily  waste.  The  drawers  should  be 
kept  clean  and  each  tool  in  its  place.  To  avoid 
the  necessity  of  frequent  cleaning,  do  not  allow  them 
to  remain  open.  The  vise  must  not  be  overstrained. 
Remember  that  there  is  a  limit  to  what  it  will  bear. 

Keep  on  the  bench  only  such  tools  as  are  in  use. 
At  the  close  of  each  recitation  put  all  in  order.  Do 
not  wait  until  the  close  of  the  recitation  to  put  away 
tools  that  will  not  be  needed  again  during  the  reci- 
tation, but  when  done  with  them  put  them  away 
at  once. 

Do  not  loan  any  tools  from  your  bench  without 
special  permission.  Your  bench  should  be  securely 
fastened  to  the  floor.  If  it  becomes  loose,  make  a 
report  to  the  instructor. 


140  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Bench  Stop 

There  are  many  styles  of  bench  stops  from  the 
simple  square  wooden  pins  to  the  adjustable  and 
reversible  iron  stops.  One  style  of  iron  stop  is 
shown  in  Fig.  128.  Do  not  think  because  the  stop 

tis    made   of   wood   that   it  does  not  matter 
how   it   is   used.     The  more   particular   you 
are  to  keep  the  stop  in  order  and  at  the  proper 
FBench-  height,  the  faster  you  will  be  able  to  work. 
Stop.  See  that  the  stop  is  enough  above  the  top 

of  the  bench  to  hold  firmly,  and  keep  in  mind  that 
many  irons  tops  have  a  tendency  to  split  the  end  of 
the  piece.  Sometimes  when  the  piece  is  crossgrained 
the  stop  will  split  a  corner  or  edge  entirely  off.  It 
is  seldom  or  never  best  to  use  a  hammer  or  mallet 
or  anything  else  with  which  to  drive  the  piece  against 
the  stop.  It  is  not  necessary  for  most  work  that 
the  piece  stick  to  the  stop. 

In  using  the  adjustable  stop  be  careful  not  to 
strain  the  adjusting  screw.  Turn  it  but  a  very 
little  either  way.  You  will  observe  that  the  stop 
will  stay  in  place  even  though  the  adjusting  screw 
is  tightened  but  a  very  little.  Be  sure  to  have  the 
stop  sufficiently  low  to  avoid  hitting  it  with  the 
planes. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  141 

Bits 

Of  the  several  kinds  of  bits  the  auger  bit  shown 
in  Fig.  129  is  best  adapted  for  general  use.  These 
bits  are  usually  had  in  sets  of  thirteen,  varying  by 
sixteenths  in  size  from  one-fourth  inch  to  one  inch, 
The  boxes  usually  have  a  place  for  a  three-six- 
teenths size,  and  for  small  work  this  size  is  quite 
useful.  Auger  bits  vary  greatly  in  price.  The  best 
are  the  cheapest  in  the  end. 

Do  not  attempt  to  sharpen  your  bits  until  you 
have  had  personal  directions  for  doing  such  work. 
A  good  bit  is  easily  spoiled  by  a  little  improper 
A 


C' 

Fig.  129.  Fig  ISO.  Fig.  131. 

Auger  Bit.  Forstner  Bit.  Twist  Drill. 

A,  Nibs;  B,  Spur; 
C,  Lips. 

filing.  Never  use  a  good  auger  bit  when  there  is 
any  liability  of  its  coming  in  contact  with  a  nail  or 
a  bit  of  sand  or  grit. 

The  Forstner  bits  are  exceptionally  useful  in 
boring  end  grain.  They  make  smooth  holes  and 
do  not  split  the  wood.  Fig.  130  illustrates  one  of 
these  bits. 

There  are  many  other  styles  of  bits.  The  twist 
drill  shown  in  Fig.  131  is  especially  useful  in  repair 
work  as  it  is  not  injured  by  coming  in  contact  with 
nails.  These  drills  are  quite  hard  and  may  be  used 
in  drilling  metal.  They  are  very  easily  broken  and 


142  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

must  not  be  used  except  where  they  can  be  held 
firmly  and  kept  from  binding.  The  work  should 
be  so  firmly  held  that  the  drill  will  not  be  broken 
in  withdrawing  from  the  hole  or  by  the  piece  moving 
while  drilling. 

The  twist  bit  (Fig.  132)  is  similar  to  the  twist 
drill  but  not  so  hard  and  consequently  not  so  easily 

Fig.  132.  Fig.  133.  Fig.  134. 

Twist  Bit.  Gimlet  Bit  German  Bit. 

broken.  It  is  not  hard  enough  to  drill  nails  with- 
out injury.  It  is  useful  in  boring  deep  holes  for 
screws. 

The  gimlet  bit  is  tapering  as  shown  in  Fig.  133 
and  is  a  good  shape  for  boring  holes  for  short,  blunt 
screws. 

The  German  bit  is  also  a  good  bit  for  boring 

small  holes.     You  see  by  referring  to  Fig.  134  that 

this  bit  has  but  a  single  twist  and  therefore  presents 

;^^^^ ^^^  a  sharper  edge  to  the  wood  than  the 

Fi    135          common  gimlet  bit. 

Center  Bit.  Fig.  135  is  of  a  center  bit,  a  very 

cheap  bit  and  a  good  bit  for  rough  work  and  for 
boring  soft  wood.  Such  bits  are  easily  sharpened 
and  are  used  by  many  where  an  auger  bit  might  be 
spoiled. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  143 

Bit-Brace 

The  bit-brace,  which  is  used  to  hold  the  auger 
bits,  screw  driver  bits,  countersinks,  etc.,  consists  of 
a  chuck  Fig.  136,  a  knob,  and  a  handle,  or  sweep. 
The  chuck  is  made  to  grasp  the  square  shank 
^  ^^^^  of  the  bit  by  revolving 

B^N  ^s^^SP  the  sleeve   which    forces 

I  ;J  the  jaws  against  the  bit. 

I  !J  Some    bit-braces    are 

V^m^'  quite  expensive,  yet   the 

Fig.  136.  Plain  Bit  Brace.  more  simple  styles  are 
the  best  for  ordinary  work.  The  ratchet  brace  shown 
in  Fig.  137  is  convenient  for  use  in  places  where  the 
sweep  cannot  make  an  entire  revolution,  and  for  bor- 
ing in  hard  wood  and  for  turning  large  screws. 

To  insert  the  bit,  grasp  the  sleeve  firmly  with 
one  hand  and  revolve  the  brace  by  grasping  the 
sweep  handle  with  the  other  hand.  Revolve 
the  brace  until 
the  shank  of  the 
bit  will  pass  be- 
tween the  jaws, 
allowing  the 
ends  of  the  jaws 
to  grasp  the 

Fig.  137.     Ratchet  Bit  Brace. 

round    part     of 

the  bit  shank,  the  square  portion  passing  into  the 

chuck  out  of  sight.     After  the  bit  has  been  placed 


144  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

as  far  into  the  jaws  of  the  chuck  as  it  will  go,  revolve 
the  sweep  in  the  opposite  direction  until  the  bit 
is  held  firmly. 


Brushes 

For  use  in  shellac  and  in  the  common  paint 
stains  a  flat  brush  one  inch  wide,  costing  from 
five  to  fifteen  cents,  will  be  sufficient  (Fig.  138). 
•T^V  _j^  Small  round  brushes  having  stiff 
m ^Fig  138  bristles  may  be  used  in  the  glue  (Fig. 
Flat  Brush.  139),  but  for  most  gluing  a  small 
wooden  paddle  is  sufficient.  It  is  usually  best  to 
keep  the  shellac  brush  in  the  dish  of  shellac.  The 
handle  of  the  brush  should  project  ^HHBM"""""» 
up  through  the  cover  of  the  can  as  pig_  139. 

shown  in   Fig    201.      Do  not   use        Round  Brush. 
a  dish  having  a    tall   cover   for  keeping  the  brush 
inside.     Be  very  careful  always  to  cover    the   dish 
when  not  in  use  even  though  it  will  be  again  used 
in  a  very  few  minutes. 

The  brush  and  dish  should  be  emptied  and 
cleaned  frequently.  The  dish  used  should  be  small, 
and  but  a  little  shellac  kept  in  it  at  one  time.  When 
the  brush  or  dish  becomes  dry  and  hard  it  should 
be  thoroughly  cleaned  before  using  again.  It  is 
a  bad  practice  to  allow  the  brush  to  become  dry  and 
hard  by  leaving  it  out  of  the  dish  each  time  after 
using. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


145 


Fig.  140. 
Plain  Tanqed  Firmer  Chisel. 


Chisels 

The  common  firmer  chisel  (Fig.  140),  the  bevel- 
backed  firmer  chisel  (Fig.  141),  and  the  heavy  firmer 
chisel  (Fig.  142)  represent  the  general  types  of  hand 
chisels  suitable  for  elemen- 
tary woodwork.  Where  but 
one  style  can  be  had  the 
first  is  preferred.  Either  style  may  have  either 
tanged  blades,  as  shown  in  Figs.  140  and  141,  or 
socket  blades, 
as  shown  in 

Fig    142     The  Fig.  141.     Bevel  Tanged  Firmer  Chisel. 

tanged  blades  are  better  for  small  hands  and  for 
light  work. 

Keep  the  chisels  sharp.  The  angle  of  the  basil 
side  should  be  as  small  as  possible  to  not  break  when 

Fig  1 42.     Socket  Firmer  Chisel  determined 

only  by  experiment  for  each  person  and  for  the 
various  kinds  of  wood.  The  cutting  edge  should 
usually  be  straight  and  the  basil  a  smooth,  even 
surface,  as  shown  in  Fig.  143. 

When  the  chisel  is  sharpened  on  the  oil  stone, 
a  new  angle  is  formed,  as  shown  by  the  line  B  in  Fig. 
143.  This  angle  also  varies  with  the  nature  of  the 
tool  and  work.  For  soft  wood  the  angle  is  smaller 


146 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


than  for  hard  wood,  and  usually  each  time  the 
chisel  is  sharpened  on  the  oilstone  the  end  will 
become  more  blunt  until  it  is 
necessary  to  change  the  angle  by 
grinding  the  tool  on  the  grind- 
stone. 

In  whetting  the  chisel  hold  it 

firmly  as  in  whetting  the  plane, 
Fig  148.    Chisel  Basil.    Fig   175       Moye  it  back  and  fo  th 
A ,  A  ngle  at  which  the        6 

chisel  is  ground.  B,  so  that  the  angle  produced  will 
thAs^t^t  be  even  and  flat.  The  common 
correct  shape  caused  mistake  in  whetting  chisels  and 

by     carelessness     in 

whetting  or  grinding,  planes  is  to  make  the  end  round- 
ing as  shown  at  C,  instead  of  a  true  flat  surface, 
Fig.  143.  Should  a  wire  edge  develop  it  may  be 
necessary  to  reverse  the  chisel,  as  shown  in  Fig.  144, 
and  holding  it 
firmly  and  flat 
ontheoilstone 
move  it  for- 
ward, break- 
ing off  the 
wire  edge.  It  Fig'  *44'  Removin9  a  Wire  Edge. 

may  be  necessary  to  change  from  the  first  to  the 
second  position  several  times  before  the  wire  edge 
will  be  removed.  After  using  the  oilstone  the  edge 
may  be  yet  further  improved  by  using  a  leather 
strop,  as  shown  in  Fig.  202. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  147 

One  side  of  the  chisel  should  be  kept  perfectly 
flat  to  the  cutting  edge  so  that  it  may  rest  firmly 
against  the  surface  of  the  part  being  worked,  as  in 
Figs.  39,  40,  43,  53,  73,  etc.  Should  this  side  become 
rounding,  either  from  wear  or  from  carelessness  in 
whetting  or  stroping,  the  end  must  be  ground  off 
on  the  grindstone  until  the  surface  is  straight. 

For  directions  about  grinding  chisels,  see  what 
is  said  about  the  grindstone  and  its  use. 


Clamps. 

Probably  the  old-fashioned  wooden  hand  screws 
shown  in  Fig.  145  will  never  be  entirely  displaced. 
For  most  work  they  are  better  than  any  other  style. 

A  k  Care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  jaws 

,  II  •  quite  or  nearly  parallel,  for  if  they 

\\        H  are   not   parallel    one  or  both  of  the 

a     ™B— «HB    screws  may  be  broken. 

Fig.  145.  Wooden  -4.1          c     **•    u*       *u 

Hand  Screw.  In  using  them  first  tighten  the  screw 

which  is  nearest  the  center  of  the  jaws.  This  screw  is 
called  the  shoulder  screw.  The  other  screw  near  the 
end  of  the  jaws  is  called  the  back  or  tail  screw  and  is 
tightened  last.  Be  sure  that  the  shoulder  screw  is 
so  tight  that  when  the  back  screw  is  tightened  the 
jaws  will  be  parallel.  Be  very  particular  to  see  just 
how  the  jaws  are  pressing  on  the  work.  This  may 
sometimes  be  determined  by  grasping  the  back 
screw  between  the  jaws  and  pulling  sidewise.  The 


148  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

point  on  which  the  jaws  turn  is  the  point  of  greatest 
pressure.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  use  wedges 
between  the  work  and  the  clamp. 

The  iron   clamp  shown  in   Fig.  146  is  better  for 
some  places  than  the  wooden  hand  screws.     These 
clamps  are  made  in  a  variety  of  styles.     Some  are 
supplied   with   quick   adjusting   devices.     They   all 
require  wooden  blocks  to  be  placed  be- 
tween them  and finishedsurfaces.  For 
F'    1A6          some  work  this  is  quiet  troublesome. 
iron  Clamp.  For  clamping  glue  joints  a  very 

strong  clamp  is  necessary.  The  one  shown  in  Fig.  147 
is  a  very  good  style.  Common  iron  bench  screws  may 
be  secured  to  a  similar  piece  and  when  properly 
fastened  make  excellent  clamps.  Whatever  style 
of  clamp  you  are  using,  re- 
member that  it  may  be 
overstrained  or  broken.  A  *%•  W  Bar  Clamp. 
little  experience  and  use  of  judgment  will  enable  you 
to  know  when  the  strain  has  reached thelimitof  safety. 
Do  not  be  afraid  of  using  too  many  clamps  on  work 
that  requires  great  pressure.  Some  pieces  are  best 
clamped  by  using  as  many  clamps  as  may  be  placed 
in  position  on  the  piece.  For  directions  in  clamping 
see  Figs.  58,  77,  78,  79,  118. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  149 


Compasses 

Fig.  148  illustrates  the  common  compasses  used 
by  woodworkers.  Fig.  99  shows  a  method  of  setting 
them,  and  Fig.  100  shows  how 
to  hold  them  in  striking  a  circle. 
The  ordinary  difficulty  in 
Fig.  148.  Compasses.  using  compasses  is  to  over- 
strain the  adjusting  screws  or  to  grasp  the 
compasses  in  such  a  manner  that  the  distance  between 
the  points  is  changed  by  the  pressure  of  the  fingers. 
Hold  them  nearly  vertical  and  revolve  them  in  either 
direction  according  to  the  grain  of  the  wood  or  the 
position  of  the  circle. 

For  most  work  it  is  better  to  sharpen  the  end  of 
one  leg  of  the  compasses  to  a  rather  blunt  lound 
point  and  the  end  of  the  other  leg  to  a  flat  knife- 
like  point. 

Do  not  use  compasses  to  pry  with,  to  make 
holes  for  screws,  or  for  similar  uses.  Do  not 
strike  them  on  the  top  end  with  the  hammer  or 
use  the  hammer  claws  to  turn  the  screws. 

Files 

Two  files  may  be  required  by  the  beginner,  an 
eight  inch  flat  mill  file  and  a  three  inch  three  cor- 
nered taper  saw  file. 

The  mill  file  (Fig.  149)  will  be  used  in  sharpening 


150  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

compasses,  the  gauge  spur,  and  similar  work.     The 

saw    file    (Fig.  150)  will   be   used  for   filing    saws. 

Files    are   so   shaped   that    the    teeth    cut    but 

Fig.  149.    Mill  File.  they  -should  be  pressed 

against  the  work  only  on  the  forward  stroke.     When 
learning  to  use  a  file,  it  is  better  to  lift  it  entirely 
from  the  work  on  the  return  stroke.     Always  hold 
the    file    firmly    and  — ^^^^••••••^•^^^-"4 

move  it  as  nearly  the  Fig- iso.  Taper  Saw  File. 
entire  length  as  the  work  will  permit.  In  filing  saws 
or  any  light,  thin  material,  be  very  careful  to  have  the 
work  held  firmly.  For  ordinary  work  the  file  is 
moved  lengthwise,  but  sometimes  it  is  moved  side- 
wise,  as  in  sharpening  the  scraper  (Fig.  186). 


Gauge 

In  selecting  a  gauge  the  inexperienced  are  apt 
to  select  the  more  expensive  styles,  thinking  they 
will  be  able  to  do  better  work  with  the  higher  priced 
tool.  Taking  every  condition  into  ac- 
151  count,  the  plain  beechwood  gauge  (Fig. 
Plain  Gauge.  151)  with  a  boxwood  screw  and  bar  un- 
graduated  is  the  best  for  the  beginner  as  well  as  for 
the  matured  mechanic  for  most  work.  This  gauge  is 
light  and  strong,  and  as  there  is  no  brass  on  the  face 
of  the  head,  it  is  very  easily  planed  smooth  and 
straight  when  it  wears  uneven.  It  will  keep  in  shape 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  151 

longer  than  some  which  have  the  brass  facing.  In 
no  case  should  one  depend  upon  the  graduations  upon 
the  gauge-beam,  but  use  the  rule  as  explained  in 
Lesson  3. 

In  advanced  work  and  for  use  in  projects  where 

many  mortises  of  the  same  width  are  to  be  made, 

a  mortising  gauge  may  be  used  to  good  advantage. 

flp^MVe   For  all  elementary  work  and  for  most 

Fig.  152.      other  work  the  plain  gauge  is  far  better. 

Mortising       m.  ,.   .  /« 

Gauge.  The  mortising  gauge  (Fig.  Io2)  has  two 
spurs  on  one  side  at  one  end  so  that  the  lines  for  both 
sides  of  a  tenon  or  mortise  may 
be  drawn  at  thesame  time.  There 
is  also  a  single  spur  at  the  oppo-  \\ 
site  side  of  the  beam,  that  the  F^-  15S-  Gau9e  SPUT- 
gauge  may  be  used  for  drawing  a  single  line. 
The  spur  on  all  the  gauges  should  be  sharpened 
with  a  file  to  a  sharp,  flat,  wedge-like  point.  The 
point  should  be  a  little  rounded  on  the  end, 
making  the  edge  which  is  in  front  as  the 
gauge  is  used  a  little  the  shorter.  When 
Fig.  '154.  properly  sharpened  and  used  it  will  make  a 
PG^gT  neat,  fine  line.  Fig.  153  indicates  the  shape 
Bar'  of  such  a  spur.  The  spur  should  extend  at 
least  an  eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  lower  surface 
of  the  bar,  and  for  most  work  three-sixteenths  of 
an  inch  is  better.  It  should  be  out  so  far  that  the 
beam  of  the  gauge  will  never  be  flat  against  the 
piece  which  is  being  lined. 


152  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

It  is  sometimes  convenient  to  have  a  lead  pencil 
gauge  line.  This  is  easily  accomplished  by  boring 
a  hole  through  the  gauge  beam  near  one  end  and 
inserting  the  stub  of  a  lead  pencil.  The  pencil  must 
have  a  very  blunt  point,  as  shown  in  Fig.  154. 

When  much  thin  lumber  is  to  be  worked,  a  split- 
ting spur  may  be  placed  in  the  opposite  end  of  the 
beam.      Such  a  spur  should  split  pine 
or  basswood  boards  up   to   one-fourth 
inch    in   thickness.      The  spur  may  be 

Fig.  155. 

Splitting  Spur,  made  from  the  broken  end  of  a  knife 
blade  as  shown  in  Fig.  155.  Before  trying  to  split 
a  piece,  joint  it  carefully  and  then  use  the  splitting 
gauge  on  both  sides  of  the  piece. 


Glue 

For  elementary  work  use  nothing  but  the  best 
grade  of  prepared  cold  glue.  Do  not  use  it  from 
a  large  dish  or  from  the  can  in  which  it  is  sold.  It 
may  be  used  from  a  small  bottle  having  a  wide 
opening  like  a  paste  bottle.  This  bottle  may  be 
kept  covered  with  a  bit  of  paper  or  with  the  regular 
screw  cover.  A  better  plan  is  to  place  a  small  dish 
in  a  larger  dish  or  box  and  fill  the  larger  dish  to  near 
the  top  of  the  inner  one  with  plaster  of  paris.  This 
will  keep  the  brush  moist  and  keep  the  glue  from 
drying  if  a  little  water  is  poured  on  the  plaster 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  153 

of  paris  often  enough  to  keep  it  moist.  The  dish 
may  have  a  loose  or  hinged  cover  of  either  wood  or 
metal. 

For  most  purposes  in  applying  the  glue  a  flat 
stick  is  better  than  a  brush.  In  case  the  glue 
becomes  too  thick  add  a  little  water.  This  should 
be  added  some  time  before  the  glue  is  to  be  used 
that  it  may  become  well  mixed  with  the  glue. 

For  directions  in  applying  and  using  the  glue 
see  Lesson  16,  Fig.  58,  Lesson  21,  Figs.  77,  78,  and 
79.  Glue  sizing  is  explained  in  Lessons  31  and  34 
and  making  glue  joints  is  explained  in  Lesson  38. 
If  you  have  purchased  a  good  quality  of  glue,  do 
not  blame  the  glue  if  it  does  not  hold.  Go  over 
the  directions  carefully,  remembering  that  the  reason 
for  the  trouble  may  be  in  your  not  following  some 
part  of  the  directions  which  you  think  of  no  con- 
sequence, but  which  may  be  the  whole  cause  of  the 
trouble. 


Grindstone 

After  edge  tools  have  been  whetted  several  times 
the  cutting  edge  becomes  so  blunt  that  it  is  necessary 
to  remove  a  considerable  portion  of  the  end  in  order 
to  maintain  the  proper  cutting  angle.  This  is 
accomplished  by  using  a  grindstone  or  emery 
grinder  suitable  for  this  sort  of  grinding.  Grind- 
stones are  not  likely  to  injure  the  tools  if  properly 


154  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

supplied  with  water.  Emery  wheels  are  often  so 
hard,  and  run  at  such  a  speed  that  they  will  spoil 
the  tools  unless  one  understands  thoroughly  how 
to  use  them. 

Ordinary  grindstones  are  cut  from  natural 
sandstone.  They  vary  greatly  in  quality.  Some 
are  much  harder  than  others.  Some  are  composed 
of  particles  of  sand  which  are  quite  hard  and  sharp 
while  others  do  not  have  this  keen  cutting  quality. 
All  wear  more  or  less  uneven  by  use  and  it  is  there- 
fore necessary  to  be  careful  in  using  them.  Always 
try  to  grind  down  the  high  places  and  in  grinding 

small  tools 
such  as 
narrow 
chisels  and 
gouges  you 
must  keep 
them  mov- 
ing across 
the  face  of 
the  stone. 
If  the 
grindstone 
were  in 
perfectcon- 
Fig.156.  Grinding  dition  there 

would  be  little  trouble  about  grinding  tools.  This 
however  is  almost  never  the  case  and  you  must  there- 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  155 

fore  learn  to  grind  on  grindstones  that  are  very  much 
out  of  order.  This  is  not  so  difficult  a  task  as  you 
may  suppose.  The  best  way  is  to  learn  to  hold 
the  tools  freehand  as  shown  in  Fig.  156.  This  does 
not  require  a  great  amount  of  practice  and  when 
once  learned  will  enable  you  to  grind  on  almost  any 
grindstone  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner. 

Be  careful  to  hold  the  tools  firmly  and  at  the 
proper  angle.  Grind  back  from  the  edge  first  and  finish 
by  grinding  at  the  edge  until  the  basil  surface  is 
straight,  flat,  and  to  an  edge.  The  flow  of  water  will 
help  to  indicate  how  the  stone  is  cutting.  The  stone 
or  emery  wheel  should  revolve  towards  the  edge  of  the 
tools  as  indicated  by  the  arrow.  One  hand  presses 
the  tool  to  the  stone  and  the  other  hand  controls 
the  angle.  The  motion  of  the  stone  has  a  tendency 
to  roll  the  chisel  or  plane  bit  in  such  a  manner  that 
it  will  be  cut  too  much  at  the  upper  corner.  The  hand 
which  controls  the  tool  must  tend  to  roll  it  so  it  will 
tend  to  cut  most  at  the  lower  corner.  Grind  very 
carefully  and  examine  the  tool  often  to  see  just  how 
the  stone  is  grinding.  You  must  not  expect  to  grind 
the  edges  of  chisels,  planes,  and  similar  tools  sufficient- 
ly fine  for  use.  The  grindstone  is  to  remove  the  large 
quantity  of  material  and  give  the  proper  shape  and 
angle  to  the  basil  surface.  The  whetstone  and 
strop  must  be  used  to  produce  the  keen  cutting  edge. 

The  directions  for  whetting  chisels  and  planes 
are  given  under  the  descriptions  of  these  tools. 


156  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Hammer 

Fig.  157  illustrates  a  carpenter's  plain  faced  ham- 
mer. Fig.  158  illustrates  a  carpenter's  bell  faced 

hammer.       The 
plain  faced  ham- 
mers are  used  on 
ordinary    work 
and  are  better  for 
the  use  of  begin- 
ners.    The  face  of  the  bell  faced  hammer  is  rounded 
and  is  much  more  difficult  to  use  except  when  one  is 
constantly  in  practice  with  it. 

Hammers  are  made  in  many  styles  and  sizes. 
The  number  two,  weighing  thirteen  ounces,  is  a  good 
size  for  boys.  The  correct  position  for  using  in  the 
ordinary  work  of  driving  nails  is  shown  in  Fig.  25. 
There  are  times  when  the  handle  should  be  grasped 
quite  near  the  head. 

Although  the  face  of  the  hammer  is  of  hardened 
steel,  yet  it  may  be  injured  by  striking  the  ends  of 
files  or  other  very  hard  bits  of 
metal.  The  most  common  injury 
is  to  the  claws  by  wedging  nails 
between  them  so  tightly  that  the 

thin  sharp  edges  of  the  claws  are  „ 

Fig.  158.   Bell  Faced 
injured.     The  ends  of  the  claws  may     Hammer. 

be  broken.     Sometimes  a  block  is  used  under  the 
hammer  head  as  shown  in  Fig.  29.     Probably  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  157 

most  needless  and  foolish  injury  to  hammers  is  done 
by  striking  them  on  the  side  of  the  head  instead  of 
on  the  face  in  ordinary  hammering.  There  are 
times  when  the  side  of  the  hammer  may  be  used, 
but  it  should  not  be,  when  the  face  can  be  used. 

Should  you  wish  to  work  in  metals  do  not  use 
your  carpenter's  hammer,  but  rather  use  a  hammer 

similar  to  those 
shown  in  Figs. 
159  and  160. 
These  hammers 
have  the  weight 

Fig.  169.     Riveting  Hammer.  Q{ 


tributed  in  a  different  manner  and  will  give  a  very 
different  effect  to  the  blow. 

If  you  will  carefully  watch  the  effect  of  the  blows 
given  by  different  hammers  and  the  same  hammer 
held  or  used  in  different  ways,  you 
will  learn  why  one  hammer  can  be 
made  to  drive  a  nail  which  another 
hammer  will  bend  over  and  why  one 
person  can  drive  a  nail  into  a  piece  j)^W  Machin- 
of  hard  wood  while  others  can  not.  ists  Hammer. 
These  are  matters  of  very  much  importance  which 
can  be  learned  only  by  careful  study,  experiment, 
and  observation. 


158  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Knife 

Do  not  try  to  economize  by  using  a  poor  knife. 
Only  one  that  may  be  kept  in  first  class  condition 
should  be  tolerated.  The  knife  should  have  two 

Fij.  161.  Pocket  Knife.  The  smaller  blade  is  to 
be  used  for  drawing  lines  and  the  point  of  this  blade 
must  be  kept  very  sharp.  Knives  with  many 
blades  or  with  tools  in  their  handles  should  not  be 
used.  Neither  should  you  try  to  use  a  knife  having 
a  chain  attached  to  the  handle. 

Always  keep  your  knife  sharp.  Fig.  161  illustrates 
a  well  shaped  knife. 

For  directions  in  using  the  knife  see  Lessons 
6,  8,  16,  18,  20,  21  and  Figs.  18,  19,  20,  21,  22,  32, 
33,  42,  65,  92,  113.  Be  very  particular  to  use  your 
knife  as  directed,  for  very  much  depends  upon  mak- 
ing a  straight,  clean  and  correct  line. 

Lumber 

The  materials  for  these  exercises  may  be  of  any 
easily  worked  soft  wood.  Probably  white  pine  is 
the  best.  Basswood  and  whitewood  or  yellow  pop- 
lar are  also  suitable.  Black  walnut  and  mahogany 
are  good  but  expensive.  Maple,  oak,  and  ash  are 
too  hard.  Chestnut  and  hard  or  yellow  pine  have 
a  grain  which  is  unsuitable  for  joinery. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  159 

Always  examine  your  material  for  defects  and 
plan  your  work  so  that  the  defects  will  be  cut  out 
or  covered  up.  Notice  carefully  the  difference  in 
texture  of  different  pieces  and  the  different  parts 
of  the  same  piece. 

You  will  not  work  enough  pieces  nor  pieces 
large  enough  to  give  you  very  definite  information, 
but  if  you  will  observe  each  piece  carefully  you  will 
gather  a  fund  of  information  which  will  aid  you 
very  much  later  on.  Your  principal  study  will  be 
to  learn  how  to  discover  the  way  of  the  grain,  and 
how  to  plane  and  cut  joints  smoothly  in  cross  grained 
pieces.  This  you  will  learn  by  experiment.  Some 
pieces  cannot  be  worked  smoothly  either  way,  but 
will  generally  work  much  smoother  in  one  direction 
than  in  the  opposite  direction. 

Notice  also  that  certain  parts  of  a  piece  require 
a  much  sharper  tool  than  do  other  parts.  Learn 
to  distinguish  pieces  that  will  work  easily  and 
smoothly  so  that  you  can  select  the  proper  stock 
for  fine  work  and  also  use  pieces  for  rough  jobs  which 
will  not  work  smoothly.  You  must  learn  to  make 
these  selections  without  testing  them  with  the  tools. 


Nails  and  Brads 

Very  little  need  be  said  about  brads  and  nails. 
They  are  made  in  such  a  great  variety  that  it  is 
scarcely  possible  to  have  use  for  any  form  or  size 


160  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

which  is  not  for  sale  by  some  dealer.  Each  dealer 
will  have  a  number  of  styles  and  sizes  suitable  for 
his  own  trade,  and  from  these  you  should  make 
your  selection.  It  is  best  to  become  somewhat 
acquainted  with  what  may  be  purchased  in  your 
own  locality  before  planning  any  project  that  will 
require  any  hardware  beyond  the  most  common 
grades.  This  caution  is  nearly  as  necessary  for  those 
living  in  cities  as  for  those  living  in  small  towns. 

There  are  nails  with  flat  heads  in  very  small 
sizes.  For  some  work  these  are  better  than  brads 
^T™"™ T7*"  as  the  heads  will  not  pull  through  soft 
Barbed  Nail.  wood.  Some  of  these  nails  are  rough 
or  barbed  on  the  lower  end  or  the  entire  length  as 
shown  in  Fig.  162-A.  These  are  desirable  for  nail- 
ing such  work  as  the  shelf  border  in  lesson  12. 

Brads  are  made  in  many  lengths,  arid  the  different 
lengths  are  made  with  different  size  heads  and  of 
different  size  wire.  The  larger  sizes  ^^  £fa±  jgg^ 
of  this  style  of  nails  or  brads  are  ^^  II 
called  finishing  nails.  Nails  having  ^J  ^j^ 
a  smaller  size  of  wire  than  the  com-  p^  /#  _ 
mon  wire  nails  but  a  similar  head  Fancy  Nails. 
are  called  box  nails.  These  are  very  useful  in  mak- 
ing boxes  and  in  fitting  up  about  the  shop. 

Sometimes  you  will  find  it  a  good  plan  to  fasten 
the  work  together  with  common  brads  or  nails,  and 
then  cover  these  nail  heads  with  the  large  heads  of 
fancy  nails  like  those  shown  in  Fig.  162-B.  These 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  161 

fancy  nails  are  made  in  a  very  great  variety  of  sizes 
and  styles.  They  may  be  used  in  finishing  the  shelf 
border,  lesson  12. 


Nail  Sets 

There  are  several  varieties  of  nail  sets,  of  which 
the  cup  set  and  spur  set  are  most  common.  The 
cup  set  (Fig.  163  A)  has  a  cup-like  cavity  at  the  lower 
end  to  set  over  the  head  of  the  nail  or  brad.  This 
style  is  excellent  for  very  small  brads.  The  spur 
set  (Fig.  163  B)  has  a  small  point  at  the  center  of  the 


Fig.  163.     Nail  Set.     A — Section  of  a  cup  set,  enlarged.    B — Section 
of  a  spur  set,  enlarged. 

lower  end.  This  point  is  quite  small,  but  sufficiently 
large  to  keep  the  set  from  slipping  off  the  nail  head. 
The  spur  set  is  better  for  large  brads  and  nails.  Be 
careful  to  use  a  set  of  the  proper  size  to  correspond 
with  the  brad  or  nail  on  which  it  is  to  be  used.  The 
method  of  using  the  sets  is  shown  in  Fig.  27.  Fre- 
quently the  head  of  a  brad  or  nail  may  be  used 
instead  of  a  nail  set,  as  shown  in  Fig.  28. 


162  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Oil  Can 

One  is  apt  in  selecting  an  oil  can  to  think  that 
the  more  expensive  sorts  are  the  best.  This  is  not 
always  the  case.  For  use  on  the  bench,  when  oil 
is  used  only  for  oilstones,  a  very  small  and  light 
can  is  better  than  a  large  heavy  one.  A  can  a  little 
larger  than  those  usually  furnished  with  sewing 
machines  is  a  good  size.  The  hole  in  the  spout 
should  be  quite  small.  It  is  far  easier  to  take  the 
necessary  time  to  let  oil  flow  from  a  small  opening 
than  to  wipe  up  the  excess  which  is  sure  to  flow 
from  a  large  spout  with  a  large  opening.  Neatness 
and  economy  in  the  use  of  oil  will  help  one  to  become 
neat  and  economical  in  the  use  of  other  materials. 
Be  very  careful  in  filling  the  can  not  to  get  any  dirt 
into  it,  for  a  very  small  bit  of  dirt  may  stop  the 
spout  and  cause  a  good  bit  of  trouble. 

Oilstone 

There  are  many  kinds  of  oilstones.  Some  are 
pieces  cut  from  natural  rock  and  some  are  made 
by  pressing  a  powdered  abrasive  into  a  rectangular 
block.  Most  stones  used  for  sharpening  edge  tools 
are  used  with  oil  and  are  called  oilstones. 

The  oil  keeps  the  particles  of  metal  from  adher- 
ing to  the  surface  of  the  stone,  or,  as  we  commonly 
say,  keeps  the  surface  from  glazing  over.  Do  not 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  163 

use  too  much  oil,  only  enough  to  keep  the  surface 
well  moistened.  Oil  should  not  run  over  the  ends 
or  edges.  Some  oilstones  work  very  much  better 
after  being  well  filled  or  soaked  in  oil.  It  is  often 
better  with  a  new  stone  not  to  wipe  the  oil  off  after 
using  it.  Wipe  it  only  when  the  surface  becomes 
dirty  or  filled  with  metal.  Lard  oil  or  other  animal 
oils  are  better  than  mineral  oils  for  use  on  oil  stones. 
Some  dealers  sell  oils  especially  for  use  on  their  oil- 
stones. 

It  is  a  good  idea  to  keep  the  stone  in  an  iron 
box  as  shown  in  Fig.  144,  or  in  a  wooden 
box.  Some  prefer  to  keep  the  stone  in  the 

pasteboard  box  in 
which  it  is  pur- 
chased, and  hold 
it  in  the  vise 
while  using  it,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  175. 
The  surfaces 
of  oilstones  may 

Fig. 164.     Truing  the  Surface  of  an  Oil slonc.     be    made    flat     by 

rubbing  them  on  a  sheet  of  sandpaper  or  emery  cloth 
laid  on  the  bench,  or  on  a  smooth  flat  board  as  shown 
in  Fig.  164.  If  you  are  careful  to  rub  the  plane  bits  and 
chisels  the  entire  length  of  the  stone,  and  to  sharpen 
knives  and  small  tools  near  the  ends  of  the  stone,  it 
will  keep  in  good  shape  for  a  long  time.  Most  oilstones 
will  break  easily  and  must  be  handled  with  care. 


164 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


There  are   many  ways  of  testing  the  edges  of 
tools  to  see  if  they  are  sharp.     Probably  the  best 

method  is 
to  use  the 
ball  of  the 
thumb  as 
shown  in 
Fig.  165. 
An  other 
very  good 
test  is  to 
try  the 
tool  on  a 
scrap  of 

Fig.  165.     Testing  an  Edge  with  the  Thumb.  .          rp, 

smoothness  and  glossiness  of  the  surface  of  the  cut 
will  indicate  very  well  the  condition  of  the  cutting 
edge.  You  should  learn  to  test  the  edge  with  your 
thumb,  because  it  is  quicker  and  better  for  most 
purposes. 


Pencil 

A  common  pencil,  such  as  is  used  in  writing,  is 
sufficient  for  ordinary  work.  If  there  is  much  lin- 
ing to  be  done  on  large  or  rough  stock,  a  carpenter's 
pencil  which  has  a  wide  flat  lead  should  be  used. 
The  point  need  not  be  as  sharp  for  writing  on  wood 
as  for  writing  on  paper.  By  pressing  quite  firmly 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  165 

the  writing  will  be  pressed  below  the  surface  so  that 
in  sanding  for. the  second  coat  of  finish  the  writing 
will  not  be  removed.  If  you  desire  to  have  lines 
which  you  can  erase,  use  a  soft  pencil  with  a  blunt 
point. 

For  erasing  pencil  lines  use  a  common  pencil 
eraser.  Do  not  attempt  to  erase  pencil  lines  by 
using  sandpaper. 


Planes 

Although  there  are  many  sorts  and  .sizes  of 
planes,  yet  for  most  work  two  or  three  planes  are 
sufficient.  For  the  exer- 
cises in  this  book  two 
planes  are  all  that  are 
necessary.  If  we  do  the 
work  with  only  two  planes 
Fig.  1 66 A .  Iron  Smooth  Plane,  we  will  likely  receive 
more  benefit  and  lay  a  better  foundation  for  future 
work  than  if  we  should 
use  a  larger  number  of 
planes  at  the  start. 

These   two    planes  are 
the     smooth    plane    (Fig.     Fig.  166B.    Iron  Jack  Plane. 


166  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

166A)  and  the  jack  plane  (Fig.  166B).  It  is  not  es- 
sential which  plane  is  used  at  first  for  planing  the  first 
piece.  You  will  select  the 
one  which  best  suits  your 
strength.  After  you  have 
I  had  some  practice,  you  will 
likely  prefer  the  longer  or 

iack  plane  for  rough  plan- 

Frg.  167 A .    Wooden  Bottomed  Iron. 

Smooth  Plane.  mg,  and  the  smooth  plane 

for  finishing  and  planing  ends  and  miters.  To  do 
nice  work  on  long  pieces  the  jack  plane  should  be  set 
fine  and  used  in- 
stead  of  the 
smooth  plane. 
As  you  become 
more  skilled  in 
the  use  of  the 
planes,  you  willF^  167B~  Wooden  Bottomed  Iron  Jack  Pla™. 
keep  them  ground  nearer  straight  across,  and  will 
change  the  set  more  often  to  accommodate  them  to 
the  various  kinds  of  work. 

The  wooden  planes  (Figs.  168  and  170)  have  been 
nearly  displaced  by  the  iron  planes.  The  wooden 
bottom  iron  planes  (Figs.  167A  and  167B)  are  pre- 
ferred by  many  workmen  for  use  on  soft  wood.  The 
beginner  will  undoubtedly  have  better  success  with 
the  full  iron  plane.  The  iron  planes  are  used  rather 
because  they  are  more  easily  adjusted  and  more  easily 
kept  in  order  than  because  they  are  capable  of  giving 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


167 


any  better  results  on  ordinary  work.     Fig.  168  shows 
the  proper  position  for  holding  the  wooden  jack  plane. 


Fig.  168.     Using  the  Wooden  JacJc  Pla 


168 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Adjusting  the  Planes 

There  are  various  ways  of  adjusting  iron  planes. 
To  make  the  plane  cut  a  thicker  or  thinner  shaving 
the  milled  thumb-screw  A  (Fig.  169)  is  turned.  The 

proper  way  to 
turn  it  must 
be  learned  by 
experiment, 
as  it  is  not 
turned  the 
same  way  in 
d  i  ff  e  r  e  n  t 
styles  of 
planes.  Re- 
member that 
there  is  often 
a  considerable 
lost  motion  in 
the  screw  and 
lever,  so  that 
the  screw 

Fig  169.     Sighting  the  Bottom  of  the  Iron  Plane.    must          be 

turned  a  little   before   it   will    have   any   effect  in 
changing  the  thickness  of  the  shaving. 

In  your  first  experiments  at  setting  the  plane, 
turn  the  screw  so  that  the  plane  will  not  cut  at  all 
and  then  turn  it  in  the  opposite  direction,  testing 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


160 


it  on  a  bit  of  waste  material  to  see  when  it  is  cutting 
properly.  Turn  the  screw  but  a  little  at  a  time, 
testing  it  often  on  the  piece  of  waste  and  also  each 


Fig.  170.     Sighting  the  Bottom  of  the  Wooden  Plane. 

time  hold  it  as  shown  at  Fig.  169  or  170,  sighting 
lengthwise  of  the  bottom  or  sole  of  the  plane.  You 
will  soon  be  able  to  see  how  much  the  cutting  edge 


170  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

projects  from  the  surface  so  that  you  can  set  the 

plane  without  using  the  piece  of  wood  for  testing  it. 

As  soon  as  the  plane  cuts  at  all  look  carefully 


Fig.  171.     Withdrawing  the  Plane  Iron  of  the  Wooden  Plane. 


to  see  whether  it  is  cutting  the  shaving  at  the  center 
or  near  one  edge.  If  the  shaving  does  not  come 
up  at  the  center  of  the  plane,  move  the  lever  B 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  171 

(Fig.  169)  sidewise  until  it  does.  If  there  is  no  lever 
for  moving  the  bit  sidewise  you  must  strike  the 
side  of  the  bit  near  the  top  end  with  a  hammer  as 
in  adjusting  the  wooden  plane  (Fig.  170). 

Sometimes  the  bit  does  not  stay  in  place  after  being 
adjusted.  This  may  be  caused  by  carelessness  in 
handling,  or  the  screw  (Fig.  173  S)  may  be  loose.  This 
screw  should  be  so  adjusted  that  when  the  cam  lever 
(Fig.  173)  is  down  the  bit  will  be  held  firmly  in  place. 
The  wooden  bottom  iron  planes  are  adjusted 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  iron  planes.  The  wooden 
planes  are  adjusted  entirely  with  a  hammer.  To 

with'draw 
the  iron,  the 
plane  is 
struck  with  a 
hammer  on 
the  top  near 
the  front  end 
as  shown  in 

Fig.  172.     Jointing  the  Bottom  of  a  Wooden  Plane.  Fig.      171. 

Strike  the  iron  a  light  blow  on  the  upper  end'  to  in- 
crease the  thickness  of  the  shaving.  When  the  bottom 
of  the  wooden  plane  or  the  wooden-bottom  iron 
plane  becomes  worn  out  of  true,  draw  the  iron  well 
out  of  the  way  and  dress  the  bottom  of  the  plane, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  172.  This  figure  shows  an  iron 
jointer  plane  in  use,  but  the  work  may  be  well  done 
by  using  a  good  iron  jack  plane. 


172 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Sharpening  Planes 

Your  planes  should  be  sharp  and  ready  for  use 
when  you  get  them  and  you  should  become  quite 
familiar  with  these  tools  and  be  able  to  set  them 
nicely  before  attempting  to 
sharpen  them  in  any  manner. 
The  first  step  in  sharpen- 
ing is  to  learn  to  whet  the 
bits  on  the  oilstone.  To  re- 
move the  bit,  grasp  the  cam 
lever  as  shown  in  Fig.  173 
with  the  thumb  and  finger 
and  lift  it  upwards.  This 
will  loosen  the  bit.  Be  very 
careful  to  see  and  remember 
just  how  every  part  appears 
when  in  proper  position. 
Lift  the  loosened  parts  from 

Fig  173.    Lifting  the  Cam  the  plane  and  with  a  screw- 
Lewr.      S — The  screw 

which  holds  the  cap  and  driver    loosen  the    screw   as 

iron  in  place.  gh()wn     jn    Mg  m         Either 

remove  the  cap  iron  or    slide   it    to    the    top    end 
out  of  the  way. 

Observe  carefully  the  angle  at  which  the  iron 
has  been  ground  and  hold  it  on  the  oilstone  so  that 
the  oilstone  will  make  a  slightly  blunter  angle,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  143,  A  being  the  angle  at  which  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


173 


Fig.  174.    Loosening 
the  Cap  Screw. 

erly  be  used  and 
which  by  practice 
you  will  discover. 
You  should  use 
only  a  simple  for- 
ward and  back- 
ward movement 
at  first.  The  es- 
sential points 
which  must  ever 
be  kept  in  mind 


iron  was  ground,  and  B  the 
angle  at  which  the  iron  is  to 
be  whetted.  Use  a  sufficient 
amount  of  oil  on  the  stone 
to  cause  it  to  cut  freely. 
Rub  the  bit  forwards  and 
backwards,  keeping  it  at 
the  same  angle.  Hold  the 
bit  very  firm  as  shown  in  Fig. 
175.  As  you  become  more 
accustomed  to  using  the  oil- 
stone you  will  give  the  tools 
a  somewhat  circular  motion, 
varying  the  amount  accor- 
(1  i  n g  to  circumstances. 
There  are  a  great  variety 
of  motions  which  may  prop- 


Fig.  175.     Whetting  a  Plane  Bit.     A  chisel 
is  whetted  in  a  similar  manner. 


174  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

are  to  use  the  stone  over  its  entire  surface  so  that  it  will 
wear  down  evenly,  and  to  keep  the  plane  bit  at  the 
same  angle  during  the  entire  process  of  whetting 
so  that  the  surface  will  be  definite  and  not  rounded 
in  the  least  as  examined  from  the  edge,  the  same  as 
the  chisel  (Fig.  143,  B  and  C). 

There  is  always  a  tendency  to  whet  the  corners 
short,  making  the  cutting  edge  rounding  as  shown 
in  Fig.  176.  This  will  do  no  harm  if 
not  too  much.  In  fact,  for  beginners 
it  is  better  to  have  at  least  one  of  the 
planes, -usually  the  jack  plane,  quite 


Rounded  End  of  a  rounding,  so  that  it  will  cut  only  a 
Plane  Iron:  .farrow  shaving  and  consequently 
not-  require  so  much  strength  to  use  it.  As  you 
become  more' -  skillful  in  using  the  planes  you  may 
whet  them  more  nearly  straight  across  until  they 
are  almost  straight  except  very  near  the  corners. 

After  bringing  the  bit  to  an  edge  it  is  often 
necessary  to  turn  the  bit  over  and  lay  it  flat  on 
the  oilstone  to  remove  the  wire  edge,  as  in 
sharpening  the  chisel  (Fig.  144).  Generally  it  is 
necessary  to  reverse  the  bit  several  times  before 
the  rough  edge  will  come  off.  After  the  wire  edge 
has  been  removed  the  bit  should  be  stropped  on  a 
bit  of  leather  as  the  chisel  is  stropped  (Fig.  202). 

Replace  the  cap  iron,  bringing  it  to  about 
one  thirty-second  of  an  inch  from  the  cutting 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK          175 

edge,  and  tighten  the  screw.  Place  the  parts  in  the 
plane  and  adjust  them  as  described  on  page  168. 
After  the  plane  bits  have  been  whetted  several 
times  they  should  be  ground  as  described  in  the 
general  directions  for  grinding  under  the  topic 
Grindstone.  • 

Putty 

Good  putty  consists  of  whiting  and  linseed  oil. 
By  using  "white  lead  with  common  putty  it  will 
adhere  better  and  become  harder.  Common  white 
putty  may  be  colored  with  ordinary  colors  to  match 
the  paint  or  stain  which  is  being  used.  A  little 
putty  kept  in  a  tightly  covered  jelly  tumbler  is  often 
quite  handy.  As  putty  becomes  hard  by  standing, 
some  persons  prefer  to  keep  a  supply  of  whiting 
and  oil  and  make  their  own  putty  a  little  at  a  time 
as  they  use  it.  The  hand  mixed  putty  is  not  usually 
as  good  as  the  good  grades  of  machine  mixed.  Do 
not  use  putty  in  any  holes  that  can  be  plugged  with 
wood.  If  the  putty  is  too  soft,  wrap  what  you  wish 
to  use  at  one  time  in  paper  and  in  a  few  hours  it 
will  be  much  harder. 

Rule 

Probably  no  part  of  the  shop  equipment  is  so 
often  improperly  selected  as  the  pocket  rules.  These 
should  be  selected  for  accuracy,  convenience,  and 


176  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

to  familiarize  oneself  with  the  rule  which  he  is 
likely  to  use  after  leaving  school.  For  this  reason 
all  two-foot,  two-fold  rules  are  unsuitable.  Of  the 
four-fold  rules  the  number  84  is  probably  the  best, 
price  considered.  In  no  case  use  the  ten-cent  style, 
or  one  having  neither  edge  brass-bound. 

Be  very  particular  to  use  the  rule  exactly  as 
directed.  Many  of  the  directions  given  may  appear 
wrong  or  needless  to  those  not  familiar  with  practical 
work,  but  nevertheless  every  direction  given  is  the 
result  of  much  experiment  and  use.  Whenever 
possible  we  should  use  the  rulings  away  from  the 
end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  17.  The  corners  not  only  soon 
become  incorrect  from  wear  but  very  often  the  grad- 
uations at  the  extreme  ends  are  not  made  correctly. 
The  number  84  rule  and  also  the  number  62  rule 
(Fig.  177)  have  the  inches  divided  into  eighths,  six- 
teenths, tenths,  and 
twelfths.  These  are  a 
Fig.  177.  Pocket  Rule.  The  No.  84  very  useful  variety  of 

Rule  is  the  same  as  this  one  except   o-raHnatinnq      and     vnu 
that  only  the  outside  edges  are  brass    graduations,     ana     yoi 

bound.  should  accustom  your- 

self always  to  use  the  rule  in  the  same  manner  and  then 
there  will  arise  no  trouble  from  getting  the  various 
scales  confused. 

Hold  the  rule,  opened  to  one  foot  long,  in  the 
•right  hand  as  shown  in  Figs  14  and  17,  when  using 
either  eighths  or  sixteenths.  The  tenths  and 
twelfths  are  on  inside  edges  and  therefore  we  never 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  177 

use  them  by  mistake  if  the  rule  is  held  in  this  manner. 
When  opened  to  two  feet  long,  if  we  always  hold  the 
rule  on  edge,  the  center  hinge  up,  we  are  sure  to  use 
only  eighths  or  sixteenths.  To  use  the  tenths  or 
twelfths  we  must  place  the  rule  in  an  uncommon 
position. 

The  drafting  scales  marked  one  fourth,  one  half, 
etc.,  may  be  used  to  take  the  dimensions  from  scale 
drawings.  The  even  inches  are  measured  with  the 
rule  in  the  ordinary  manner.  The  fractions  of  an 
inch  are  obtained  by  setting  the  compasses  to  the 
distance  on  the  drawing  and  then  applying  them 
to  the  scale  as  in  setting  them,  as  shown  in  Fig.  99. 

The  proper  method  of  using  the  rule  in  laying 
off  given  spaces  is  shown  in  Figs.  18,  123. 


Sandpaper 

Sandpaper  is  the  name  commonly  applied  to  a 
tough  paper  coated  with  ground  flint.  Glue  is  used 
to  hold  the  flint  to  the  surface  of  the  paper.  There 
is  considerable  difference  in  the  cutting  and  wearing 
qualities  of  the  different  brands  of  sandpaper. 

For  ordinary  work  the  grades  0,  ^,  1,  1£,  are 
sufficient.  For  very  fine  work  00  may  be  used. 
No.  2  may  be  used  in  rounding  corners,  edges,  etc. 
Such  places  should  be  made  quite  smooth  with  the 
edge  tools  before  using  the  sandpaper.  If  your  work 
is  to  be  inspected  by  an  instructor  do  not  use  any 


178  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

sandpaper  until  the  piece  has  been  examined  and 
passed.  For  nearly  all  small  work  it  is  best  to  hold 
the  paper  without  a  block  as  shown  in  Figs.  46  and 
47. 

On  large  surfaces  and  to  give  a  smooth  finish  to 
corners  and  rounded  edges  a  block  may  be  used. 

Plane  a  block  to  about  4J  inches  long  by  2 1  inches 
wide  and  f  inch  thick.  Keep  this  block  for  use 
when  required.  Blocks  of  other  sizes  and  shapes 
may  be  required  for  special  work.  These  may  be 
of  almost  any  size  or  shape  but  should  always  be 
carefully  made  and  the  paper  very  carefully  folded 
around  them.  Never  glue  or  nail  the  paper  to  the 
block.  Fold  it  so  that  it  may  be  changed  in  posi- 
tion until  the  entire  surface  has  been  used.  Remem- 
ber that  paper  which  has  been  used  is  often  better 
than  a  fresh  piece,  and  therefore  do  not  throw  any 
paper  away  until  it  has  been  entirely  worn  out. 

Sandpaper  often  becomes  too  dry  to  work  prop- 
erly. If  kept  where  it  will  not  dry  out  nor  be- 
come too  damp-  it  will  work  much  better.  It  may 
be  dampened  by  sprinkling  a  little  water  between 
the  sheets  and  keeping  them  pressed  tightly  together 
for  a  few  days.  Always  tear  the  paper  carefully 
with  a  saw  as  shown  in  Fig.  44. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


179 


Fig.  178.  The  common  grades 
of  both  hand  saws  and  rip 
saws  are  made  this  shape. 


Saws 

The  saws  used  in  elementary  wood  work  are  the 
hand  saw,  the  rip  saw,  Figs.  178  and  179,  and  the 
back  saw,  Fig.  180.  For  special  work  we  sometimes 
require  the  compass  saw,  Fig. 
181.  The  proper  methods  of 
using  the  saws  are  shown  in 
Figs.  37,  38,  72,  93,  94,  95. 
In  using  any  saw  in  working 
around  a  curve  the  saw  should  work  squarely  through 
the  piece,  or  at  right  angles 
to  the  surface  in  both  direct- 
ions. This  applies  particular- 
ly to  the  compass  saw. 

The    blades    of    saws    are 
easily  rusted  and  therefore  you  should  not   touch 

the  blades  with  your 
hands.  If  from  any 
cause  the  surface  of 
the  blade  is  mois- 
tened, or  if  they  are 
used  in  a  damp  room,  tbey  should  be  .carefully  wiped 
and  the  surface  coated  with 
vaseline  or  oil.  Vaseline  is 
probably  the  best  '  anti-rust  fig.isi.  Compass  Saw 
material  easily  applied  for  keeping  not  only  saws  but 
all  other  bright  tools  from  rusting. 


Fig.  179.  Some  of  the  better 
grades  of  saws  are  made 
this  "shape 


k  Saw. 


180  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

When  the  saw  refuses  to  work  freely  it  should 
be  put  in  order.  The  kinking  of  the  blade  is  a  ser- 
ious injury  to  the  saw  and  therefore  take  no  chances 
When  the  saw  sticks  or  binds  in  the  kerf,  find 
where  the  difficulty  is  and  correct  it  or  stop  sawing 
entirely  and  wait  for  assistance.  Of  all  the  tools 
used  in  working  wood,  none  work  so  freely  as  saw* 
when  in  order  and  properly  used  and  none  so  badly 
when  out  of  order. 

Fig.    182  indicates   the   forms   of   teeth   usually 
given  to  small  saws.     A  shows  the  teeth  of  a  hand 
saw  and  B  those  of  a  rip  saw. 
The  shapes  shown  are  only  to 
Tee]ho}saws.  illustrate  the  general  plan  of 

A,   Hand  Saw.  B,  Rip  Saw.    tne    two  kin(Js  of  saws.      This 

is  especially  true  of  the  hand  saw  which  is  filed  at 
many  different  angles  to  suit  it  to  various  kinds  of 
wood  and  different  grades  of  work. 

The  fitting  of  saws  in  the  best  manner  is  too 
difficult  a  task  for  even  many  of  those  who  are  con- 
stantly using  them.  The  novice  in  woodworking 
should  not  attempt  to  fit  his  own  saws.  After  he 
has  become  quite  familiar  with  his  saws  and  knows 
quite  well  how  they  should  work  when  in  proper 
shape,  he  may  begin  by  pointing  the  teeth  a  very 
little  when  they  become  dull.  The  first  thing  to 
be  learned  is  that  there  is  great  danger  of  filing  too 
much  and  that  too  much  filing  is  quite  as  bad  as  no 
filing  at  all.  After  a  time  he  may  attempt  to  joint 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  181 

and  file  and  finally  to  joint  and  file  and  set  his  saws. 

Fig.  183  shows  a  good  clamp  for  holding  saws 

while  filing  them.      The  boards  should  be  a  little 


Fig.  183.     Saw  Clamp. 

hollowed  on  the  inside  so  that  they  will  press  firmly 
against  the  sides  of  the  saw  near  the  teeth.  The 
saw  should  be  held  as  low  down  in  the  clamp  as  will 
permit  of  holding  the  file  at  the  proper  angle.  There 
are  many  kinds  of  saw  clamps  made  of  iron.  These 
are  good  but  not  essential  when  one  has  but  two 
or  three  saws  to  keep  in  order.  It  is  very  essential 
that  a  clamp  of  some  kind  be  used,  for  if  the  saw  is 
not  held  very  firmly  the  files  will  wear  out  rapidly 
and  it  will  be  very  difficult  to  make  the  teeth  of  -the 
correct  shape. 


182  ELEMENTAKT  .WOODWORK 


Saw  Set 

Tile  saw  set,  shown  in  Fig.  184,  is  for  setting  the 
teeth  of  saws  so  they  will  work  more  easily.  This 
is  not  a  very  difficult  tool  to  use  except  that  it 
requires  considerable  experience  to  determine  how 
much  set  should  be  given  a 
saw  to  cause  it  to  work  to  the 
best  advantage. 

You  should  proceed  with 
Fig.  184  Saw  Set.  considerable  care  in  order  not 
to  crush  the  teeth  or  kink  the  blade  at  the  base  of 
the  teeth.  There  is  also  danger  of  breaking  the 
teeth.  The  less  set  •»  a  -  saw-  has  the  better,  pro- 
vided it  works  freely.  Some  saws  are  made  so  that 
they  .do  not-  require  any  set.  This  is  generally  true 
of  the  back  saws,  and  other  saws  which  .'are_  thin  on 
the  back. 

'  Scraper 

For  cleaning  off  thick  bits  of  finish  and  for 
smoothing  cross  grained  pieces  a  scraper  is  required. 
Onje  may  be  made  from  a  piece  of  an  \  | 

old  of  broken  saw  blade'.      Various  sizes       „.    i0~ 

rig.  loo. 

and  shapes  may  be  purchased.  They  Scraper  Bur. 
may  be  rectangular  in  outline  or  of  any  other  shape 
required  to  fit  the  work.  For  the  present  work  a 
small  rectangular  scraper  is  sufficient. 


ELEMENTARY"  WOODWORK 


183 


The  cutting  or  scraping  is  ;  done  by  a  very  fine 
edge  or  bur  which  is  nearly  at  a  right  angle  to  the 

•surface  of  the  scraper. 
This  is  .  shown  very 
much  enlarged  in  Fig. 
185.  To  produce  this 
bur  the  edge  of  the 
scraper  is  first  draw  filed 

Fiq   186.     Drawfilinj  a  Scraper  . 

as  shown   in   Fig.    186. 

The  -draw  filing  is   to   make   the  edge  square  and 

straight  except  that 

e  arc  1>     end-     Is 

rounded'  a-little.  For 

some  work  the  edge 

is  curved  the  entire 

length.     After  draw 

filing,lay  the  scraper  F^-  187- 

flat  on  the  bench  and  rub  the  edge  several  times 
r—  ^j  the  entire  length  with  the  chisel,  as  shown 
Fig.  188.  in  Fig.  187.  The  chisel  is  held  nearly, 

Bur  Flat,      but    not 

quite,  flat  on  the 
scraper.  This 
smooths  the  edge 
and  forces  a  bit  of 
metal  out  as  indi- 
cated in  Fig.  188. 
Next  change  the 
chisel  as  shown  in 


the  Bur- 


Fig.  189.     Raising  a  Bur. 


184 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Fig.  189  and  draw  it  towards  you,  using  all  the  force 
you  can.  This  will  turn  the  bur  as  shown  in  Fig. 
185.  You  can  turn  a  bur  on  but  one  edge  or  on 

each  side  of  all  the 
edges,  and  if  you 
are  careful  in  us- 
ing the  scraper 
you  will  not  cut 
your  fingers  on  the 
edges.  A  little 
soapy  water  on 
the  chisel  will 

Fig.  190.     Pushing  a  Scraper.  ^^    ^   t() 

better  and 
avoid  tearing 
off  the  bur. 

Always  hold 
the  scraper 
firmly  and  as 
near  perpen- 
dicular to  the 
surface  as  the 
bur  will  cut. 
Remember 

that       W  he  n  Fig.  191.     Pulling  a  Scraper. 

properly  sharpened  and  used  the  scraper  will  cut  off 
shavings,  and  therefore  do  not  use  it  when  it  is  so 
dull  that  it  removes  only  dust. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  185 

The  scraper  is  usually  held  in  one  hand  for  scrap- 
ing thick  places  on  finish  as  shown  in  Fig.  49.  For 
finishing  rough  places  on  wood  it  is  held  by  both 
hands,  as  shown  in  Figs.  190  and  191.  Whether 
the  scraper  should  be  pushed  from  you  or 
pulled  towards  you  depends  upon  the 
Fig7i92.  nature  of  the  work  and  the  strength  of 

SwanNeck  i         i  T~V  in 

Cabinet  your  hands.  Do  not  use  any  handle  or 
Scraper,  holder  while  scraping  ordinary  small  work. 
Be  careful  to  hold  the  scraper  so  that  it  will  cut  at 
the  center  of  the  piece  and  not  round  the  surface. 
Change  the  position  or  direction  of  the  stroke  sufficient- 
ly often  to  avoid  following  the  defects  in  the  surface. 
Be  careful  not  to  scrape  out  the  soft  places  and  leave 
the  hard  grain  above  the  remainder  of  the  surface. 
For  working  in  hollows  a  scraper  like  the  one  shown 
in  Fig.  192  may  be  used. 

It  is  nearly  always  best  to  go  over  a  surface  with 
the  smooth  plane  before  using  the  scraper.  Only 
on  a  very  cross  grained  surface  should  one  try  to 
finish  with  the  scraper  directly  from  the  planing 
machine.  Some  machines  plane  so  smooth  that 
the  surface  appears  to  be  perfectly  smooth  except 
to  the  experienced  eye,  yet  unless  the  hand  plane  is 
used  the  scraper  will  not  be  likely  to  remove  the 
roughness  so  that  it  will  not  show  through  the  finish. 


186 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Screw  Driver 

Perhaps  the  most  abused  of  all  tools  is  the  screw 
driver.  There  are  many  forms  both  for  bit  stock 
vaau»===mm  and  for  hand  use.  Those  for  the  bit 
FiBracf '  Sc?ew  stock,  Fig-  193,shouldbe  of  good  quality 
Driver.  and  well  sharpened.  In  hand  screw 

drivers  one  may  get  any  style  or  quality  desired. 
One  of  the  best  forms  is  shown  in  Fig.  194. 

The  proper  form  for  the  end  is  a  straight  even 
taper  from  the  extreme  point  to  the  largest  part 

Shown    in     Fig.      195.  Fi'j.  194.     Hand  Screw  Driver. 

Never  stub  the  end  of  a  large  screw  driver  to 
make  it  fit  small  screws.  Nor  file  a  shoulder  as 
shown  in  Fig.  196.  This  shoulder  not  only 
does  it  no  good  but  tends  to  cause  the 
corner  of  the  blade  to  break  more  easily 
than  it  would  if  there  were  no  shoulder  at 
this  point.  A  good  screw  driver  properly 
Fig~i95.  sharpened,  if  of  the  proper  size  for  the 
screw,  will  invariably  break  the  head  of 


Sharpened  the    screw  before  being  broken. 
Driver.  You  should  have  different  sizes 

of  screw  drivers  so  that  the  ends  will  fit 
tightly  the  slots  of  the  screw  heads.  For 
elementary  work  the  simple  plain  tools 
are  the  best.  The  various  forms  of  spiral 
and  ratchet  screw  drivers  are  excellent 


Driver. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  187 

for  some  purposes,  but  should  not  be   used   until 
one  has  become  quite  familiar  with  tools  in  general. 


Shellac  and  Alcohol 

Use  only  the  best  white  shellac  in  grain  alcohol. 
Get  this  already  for  use  if  you  can  and  avoid  the 
trouble  of  fixing  it.  Be  careful  to  get  only  that 
which  is  fresh,  and  which  is  made  of  good  materials 
and  properly  mixed. 

Good  white  shellac  should  dissolve  in  grain 
alcohol  at  the  ordinary  temperature  of  the  work 
room.  The  proportions  are  best  determined  by 
experiment.  The  thicker  the  better,  providing 
you  are  able  to  get  a  smooth  finish.  At  first  you 
will  need  to  use  it  quite  thin.  Keep  the  bottle  of 
shellac  tightly  corked,  as  the  alcohol 
evaporates  very  rapidly.  Fig.  201 
illustrates  a  suitable  dish  from  which 
to  use  the  shellac.  It  may  be  covered 
quite  tightly  when  not  in  use,  and 
there  is  a  wire  across  it  on  which  to 
wipe  the  brush. 

Very  fine   finishes   may   be  made 
entirely  of  shellac,  but  for  elementary 
^  201   Dish  for  work  it  is  not  usually  best  to  attempt 
Shellac.  more  than  to  simply  apply  thin  coat- 

ings of  shellac  and  rub  the  surface    carefully  to   a 
dead  smooth  finish   after  each  coating.      The  rub- 


188  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

bing  may  be  done  with  fine  sandpaper  or  with  pumice 
stone  and  oil  or  water.  Be  very. careful  to  rub  the 
finish  evenly  as  directed  in  Lesson  15.  Remember 
that  although  shellac  is  probably  the  easiest  finish 
for  the  beginner  to  use,  it  requires  considerable 
judgment  and  patience  to  use  it  successfully. 

Stains,  Paint,  etc. 

The  exercises  may  be  stained  or  varnished  or 
finished  in  shellac.  There  are  many  sorts  of  prepared 
stains  which  give  a  very  serviceable  finish.  These 
may  be  had,  with  directions  for  use,  of  all  dealers  in 
paints  and  varnishes. 

A  very  handy  and  cheap  method  of  coloring  soft 
woods  is  to  apply  a  thin  coat  of  any  color  desired 
and  wipe  off  with  a  cloth  until  the  grain  of  the  wood 
shows  through  the  paint.  The  common  colors 
ground  in  oil  and  thinned  with  turpentine  are  used 
for  this  purpose.  After  the  stain  has  dried  the  piece 
may  be  finished  with  a  coat  of  furniture  wax  or  a 
coat  of  shellac  or  varnish. 

Strop 

Do  not  depend  upon  the  oilstone  to  give  a  per- 
fect edge  to  either  the  chisels  or  the  plane  bits.  It 
is  nearly  always  best  to  finish  sharpening  the  edge 
tools  on  a  leather  strop.  Do  not  use  the  strop  too 
much.  The  tendency  is  to  round  the  edge,  and  this 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


189 


should  not  be  done.  A  very  few  strokes  should  be 
sufficient  to  give  the  tool  a  keen  edge.  In  stropping 
tools  the  motion  is  the  reverse  of  what  it  is  in  whet- 

ting  them. 
The  tool  is 
drawn  as  in- 
dicated by  the 
arrow  in  Fig. 
202  and  en- 
tirely lifted 
from  the  strop 
on  the  return 
stroke. 

The  expen- 

Fig.  202.     Stropping  Tools.  S1V6     S  t  r  O  p  S 

such  as  are  used  in  sharpening  razors  are  not  re- 
quired for  this  work.  A  strop  may  be  made  from 
almost  any  bit  of  leather  two  or  three  inches  wide 
and  eight  to  twelve  inches  long.  With  the  scraper 
Fig.  191,  clean  the  surface  of  a  piece  of  heavy  belt- 
ing and  you  have  an  ideal  strop  for  tools.  Do  not 
use  any  powder  or  other  preparation  on  the  strop 
to  make  it  cut  rapidly. 


190  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Steel  Square 

The  carpenter's  steel  square  (Fig.  197)  is  required 
by  the  young  woodworker  when 
cutting  up  stock,  setting  the  tee 
bevel  and  for  testing  large  pieces 
of  work.  The  blades  may  also  be 
used  as  straight  edges.  The  small 
steel  square  with  a  12  inch  blade 
is  very  useful  for  small  work. 
Do  not  be  content  to  test  one 
corner  of  a  chair  or  frame,  but 
apply  the  square  in  a  variety 
of  positions  whenever  possible. 


Try-square 

There  are  several  forms  of  try-squares,  some  of 
which  are  shown  in  Figs.  198,  199,  and  200.  The 
method  of  using  try-squares  is  shown  in  Figs.  4,  12, 

19,  20,   21,   22, 

23,  32,  33,  36, 

42,  55,  56,   57, 

59,  60,  62,  and 

Fig.    198.      A    Good  95.          All     try-  Fi^~i99.  A  Substantial 
Cheap  Try-Square,     gnuares     are       ^^  Iron  Try-Square. 

liable  to  be  injured  by  rough  usage.    Do  not  use  them 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  191 

for  hammering  or  prying.  Be  careful  not  to  drop 
thpim  upon  the  floor  or  bench.  In  testing  edges,  lift 
and  lower  the  square  at  several 
points  along  the  edge  rather  than 
slide  it  the  entire  length  of  the 
piece.  Always  make  a  variety  of 
Fig  200.  This  Try-  te  t  if  practical.  Be  careful  to  test 

square  has  an  in- 
laid  head  and  is  pieces  to  their  extreme  limits,  such 

probably    the    best 

try-square  for  use.     as    the    extreme  ends  and    edges. 

Should  the  square  be   bruised  or  sprung  out  of 

true  it  is  not  a  difficult  matter  to  true  it  by  using 

the  eight-inch  file  and  testing  it  with  the  steel  square. 


Tee  Bevel 

Fig.  203  illustrates  the  common  tee  bevel.  In 
this  style  the  blade  is  held  in  position  by  the  thumb 
screw  at  the  end  of  the  handle.  The 
screw  on  which  the  blade  slides  some- 
times requires  adjusting  in  order  that 
the  thumb  screw  may  hold  properly.  Fig 
While  adjusting  the  blade  it  should 
be  just  loose  enough  to  move  freely  but  not  so  loose 
that  it  will  move  without  some  force. 

There  are  many  ways  of  determining  the  angle 
at  which  to  set  the  blade.     Probably  the  best  method 


>y  tne  thumb 

V 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


for    the    inexperienced    is    to     first     draw    a    line 

of  the  required  angle 
as  in  Fig.  116.  An- 
other method  is  to  set 
the  blade  by  the  car- 
penter's steel  square  by 
laying  the  head  against 
one  edge  and,  for  a 
square  miter,  adjust- 
ing the  blade  until  its 
edge  is  equally  distant 
from  the  corner  of  the 

Fig.  20 '4  A.     Setting  a  Tee  Bevel  i      ,u      ,, 

square    on     both    the 

body  and  the  tongue.  The  head  may  be  placed  as 
shown  in  Fig.  204A  or  204B.  You  may  have  at  hand 
the  triangles  used  in  drafting.  These  are  excellent 
standards  for  use  in  setting  the  tee  bevel  to  any  of 
the  angles 
found  on 
them. 

There  are 
many  other 
ways  of  get- 
ting angles 
and  setting 

the  tee  bevel,  Fig.  204B.     Setting  a  Tee  Bevel. 

but  the  above  will  be  found  sufficient  for  all  ordi- 
nary work.  After  the  blade  has  been  set  at  the 
desired  angle  it  is  used  very  much  as  the  ttry-square 
is  used  as  shown  in  Figs.  19.  20,  32,  33. 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  193 


Varnish 

There  are  a  great  many  varieties  and  grades  of 
varnish.  Each  has  its  particular  use.  Those  which 
give  the  better  grades  of  finish  require  in  their  use 
considerable  skill  and  experience.  We  cannot  ad- 
vise the  use  of  varnish  until  one  has  become  quite 
expert  in  the  use  of  shellac. 

Some  "flowing"  varnishes  give  fine  finishes 
without  any  polishing.  Some  varnishes  are  made 
to  be  ground  down  to  a  smooth  surface  after  drying. 
These  are  called  rubbing  varnishes.  Some  give 
a  good  cheap  finish  by  having  the  articles  dipped 
in  them.  Should  you  decide  to  use  varnish,  get  it 
of  a  reliable  dealer  who  will  sell  you  the  grade  and 
kind  suitable  for  your  work. 

The  one  point  of  great  importance  in  all  varnish- 
ing is  that  the  surface  to  be  varnished  must  be  per- 
fectly polished  before  any  finish  is  applied  if  we  are 
to  have  a  proper  finish.  Use  the  scraper  and  sand- 
paper thoroughly,  and  do  not  forget  that  all  defects 
and  especially  machine  marks  will  show  much  more 
after  the  varnishing  than  before. 


194 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


Vise 

The  vise  should  not  be  used  to  avoid  the  proper 
handling  of  the  edge  tools  and  the  saws.     Seldom, 

if  ever,  should 
any  piece  be 
held  in  the 
vise  while  us- 
ing either  a 
hand  saw  or 
a  back  saw. 
A  good  me- 
chanic cannot 
use  a  hand 
saw  or  a  back 

Fig.  205.     Ripping  in  the  Vise.  Saw     SO      well 

with  the  piece  of  work  held  in  the  vise  as  when 
it  is  held  on  a  bench-hook,  and  it  is  useless  for  the 
beginner  to  attempt  to  do  good  work  in  this  manner. 
You  may  succeed  in  cutting  off  a  piece  of  wood,  but 
you  will  neither  have  done  a  good  job  nor  have  learned 
anything  of  value.  If  you  will  not  use  the  vise 
for  such  work  you  will  not  only  soon  be  able 
to  do  more  work,  but  you  will  be  able  to  do  better 
work  and  will  also  be  learning  the  proper  method 
of  working. 

When  a  piece  is  to  be  ripped  it   should  be   held 
in    the  vise,    unless    it    is   too  large,   and   then   it 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


195 


should  be  held  upon  the  sawhorses  as  shown  in 
Fig.  94.  If  the  piece  is  too  wide  to  be  held  as  shown  in 
Fig.  72,  it  may  be  held  as  shown  in  Figs.  205  and  206. 


Fig.  206.     Ripping  in  the  Vise.     Finishing. 

The  jaws  of  the  vise  should  be  of  wood  or  lined 
with  wood,  and  you  should  be  very  careful  not  to 
injure  them  with  the  tools.  Also  be  careful  not  to 
overstrain  the  "vise  either  by  turning  the  screw  too 
tightly  or  by  placing  the  piece  which  is  being  held 
too  near  to  one  corner  or  edge  of  the  jaws.  It  is 
sometimes  a  good  idea 
with  some  vises  to 
place  a  piece  of  waste 
material  on  the  end  or 
side  of  the  jaws  op- 
posite to  the  work  as 
shown  in  Fie.  207  ¥*Q-  207-  A  Block  in  the  Vise  io 

Hold  it  Square. 


196  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Proper  methods  of  holding  work  are  shown  in 
Figs.  30,  31,  32,  33,  34,  61,  69,71,  98,  103,  108,  117, 
121,  and  124. 

The  working  of  the  soft  wood  joints  should  not 
be  done  in  the  vise  but  on  the  bench-hook,  as  directed 
in  the  lessons.  When  the  work  is  in  hard  wood 
and  much  chiseling  is  required,  the  vise  may  be  used, 
but  not  otherwise.  Do  not  undertake  to  work  hard 
wood  until  you  have  learned  to  handle  your  tools 
properly  on  soft  wood,  or  you  will  likely  not  learn 
to  do  your  work  properly  at  all. 

There  are  many  styles  of  vises.  The  one  shown 
in  many  of  the  illustrations  represents  a  large  num- 
ber of  styles  of  "quick  acting"  vises  of  more  or  less 
value.  For  the  beginner  there  is  no  quick  acting 
vise  equal  to  the  simple  but  old  style  wooden  vise 
with  an  iron  screw.  These  wooden  vises  may  be 
seen  in  use  by  many  woodworkers  and  especially 
by  carpenters. 

Wax 

There  are  many  varieties  and  grades  of  prepared 
wax  on  sale  by  dealers.  Some  of  these  possess  con- 
siderable merit.  Common  beeswax  made  soft  by 
adding  a  small  quantity  of  turpentine  is  quite  equal 
to  any  prepared  wax. 

The  wax  is  first  put  on  with  a  brush  or  rubbed 
on  with  a  cloth  or  bit  of  waste  and  then  the 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  197 

very  thoroughly  rubbed.  When  the  surface  becomes 
dingy  or  loses  its  fresh  appearance,  more  wax  may 
be  applied  in  the  same  manner.  Wax  is  one  of  the 
safest  sorts  of  finish  to  apply,  but  requires  consider- 
able rubbing  to  produce  a  good  finish.  There  is 
little  danger  of  applying  too  much,  for  any  surplus 
will  be  removed  in  the  rubbing.  Where  the  wood 
has  been  first  stained  the  rubbing  must  not  be  so 
hard  as  to  remove  the  stain.  This  caution  is  espec- 
ially necessary  when  rubbing  around  corners  or  on 
raised  surfaces. 


198  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 


INDEX 

Apron,  boy's  137 

Apron,  girl's    -  ------  137 

Auger  Bit     -  141 

Angle  for  Sharpening  Tools      ---.-.  145 


Backsaw        -        --        --        -        -         -         -          5-179 

Backsaw,  Use  of  -    41-48-59-76 

Bar  Clamp 148 

Basil  of  Chisel  ..-..__  146 

Bench    -  ---------     139 

Bench  Board      -  .....        7.45 

Bench  Hook 30-102 

Bench  Hook,  Use  of  ...        7-41-59-70-73-76-82-83-86 

Bench  Set  of  Tools  -        -        -          5 

Bench  Stop  17-140 

Bending  Shelf  Border  -        47 

Bits 141 

Bits,  Use  of         -  ......     38-78-118 

Bit  Brace        ....  143 

Bit  Brace,  Use  of  -      38-78-118 

Blind  Wedging  -        -     90 

Elind  Mortise  and  Tenon  88 

Boring    -  ....    38-78-84 

Bridle  Joint         -  114 

Brushes 144 

Brushes,  Use  of 53 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  199 

Care  of  Tools        -----  6 

Center  Bit -  142 

Chamfering -        -        107-109 

Chisel 145 

Chiselling  a  Chamfer --109 

Chiselling  a  Gain               _..---       59-70-79-81 
Chiselling  a  Round  End -      105 

Chiselling,  Shearing  Cut    ------     44-47-59-79 

Chisel,  Sharpening  a  -  146 

Clamps    -  147 

Clamps,  Using -     63-82-118 

Cleaning  Bench         -         -  _        -        -     6 

Clothes  Brush      -  ...  4 


Compasses 


149 


Compasses,  Using  -         104-108 

Compass  Saw          _-.-                  .._-    179 
Corner  Shelf       -  46 

Cutting  up  Stock  - 
Cylinder,  Making  a -  133 


Dating  Work        -  '      & 

Drawing  Gauge  Line  21-57-78-118-131 

Drawing  Oblique  Lines  ...                  ...         74 

Dovetail,  Halved     -  74 

Dovetail,  Single  -  -91 

Dovetail,  Common  -  -        -        - 

Dovetail,  Half-blind    -  96 

Dovetail,  Special     -  -    I20 

DowellJoint 117 


200  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Emery  Grinder      - 153 

Equipment,  Personal         ----.--.4 

Equipment,  School       --------          5 

Exercise  Material 7 

Face  Marks 16-19-72 

Face  Surface  17 

Files  149 

Finishing  the  Halved  Corner 64 

Firmer  Chisel  (See  Chisel)          - 145 

Forstner  Bit  -  141 

Fourth  Side,  Truing 25 

Frame  Mortise  and  Tenon 85 

Gain,  Working  a 59-70-112 

Gained  and  Rabbeted  Corner        -        -        -        -        -        -      112 

Gauge       -        -  150 

Gauge,  Mortising  -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -151 

Gauge,  Using    - 20-23-36-57-77-131 

Getting  Out  Stock 99 

German  Bit 142 

Gimlet  Bit     -  142 

Glue  -          152 

Glue,  Using  -  63-82-93-112-128 

Glue  Brush  144 

Glue  Joint  126 

Glue  Sizing  112 

Glue,  Removing  Surplus 64 

Grindstone 153 

Grinding  of  Tools 6-153 

Groove,  Working     - 117 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  201 

Half  Blind  Dovetail  -     96 

Halved  Corner    -  -          56 

Halved  Corner,  Finishing 64 

Halved  Cross  •         -         -  .     -        71 

Halved  Dovetail       -  ------   74 

Halved  Tee          -  ...        68 

Hammer  -         -        -         - 156 

Hammer,  Using   -  ...         31-33-90-111 

Hand  Saw  -         -        -     5-98-174-179 

Haunched  Mortise  and  Tenon       -         -        -         -         -        -115 

Hexagon          ----------  134 

Illustrations,  Descriptions  of          ------8 

Introduction  of  Part  III. 136 

Introduction  of  Part  II.     Supplementary  Exercises  98 

Iron  Clamp         -  -  148 

Jack  Plane     -  -       165-169 

Jack  Plane,  Using                -----  10-17-35-107-171 

Jointing  an  Edge 35-17-126 

Jointer  Plane      -----  -         -         171 

Key  to  Drawer        ---------6 

Keyhole  Saw  (See  Compass  Saw)         -         -         -         -         -        179 

Knife          -        -        -  26-27-28-36-48-70-94-97-119-131-158 

Laying  off  Spaces         --------26 

Lavatories        ------  __-6 

Lining  on  an  Edge        - 36-75-97 

Lining,  Drawing  Lines     -    27-36-57-70-74-77-94-97-100-119-123-131 
Locker         -  5 

Lumber  ----------  158 


202  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Machinist's  Hammer          -        -        -        -  -      -  -        -           157 

Making  an  Octagon -        -130 

Making  a  Cylinder     --------  133 

Making  a  Hexagon        -__-_  .-134 

Making  a  Wedge       -  87 

Making  a  Pointer          -        -         -        -        -        -  -         -134 

Making  a  Halved  Tee  68 

Mallet  5-86 

Marking  Three  Tenths  131 
Marking  Personal  Articles             __-..-           4 

Marking  Material  -        5-6-71 

Measuring  With  the  Rule  25-26-131 

Mill  File  150 

Miter  Joint  -       121 

Mortise  and  Tenon,  Through     -  83 

Mortise  and  Tenon,  Blind  -         88 

Mortise  and  Tenon,  Frame  85 

Mortise  and  Tenon,  Haunched      -         -        -         -  -        -115 

Mortise,  Slip  and  Miter    -  125 

Mortise,  Slip  and  Tenon       - 77 


Nails  and  Brads        - 159 

Nails,  Driving  -         31-111 

Nails,  Setting  32 

Nails,  Withdrawing  32 

Nailheads,  Covering  -                                                                  111 

Nailset         -  161 

Nailset,  Using  32-111 

Name  on  Work  _____--.                5 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  203 

Octagon 130 

Oilstone 4-146-162-173 

Oil  Can  162 

Pencil 164 

Planes  165 

Planes,  Wooden  Bottom         .--«--  166 

Planes,  Wooden          ...  167 

Plane  Irons  Adjusting  168 
Plane  Irons,  Sharpening                                                               172-173 

Plane  Irons,  Grinding             .-----  6-154 

Planes,  Truing  the  Bottoms  of            -    -    -        -        •>  171 

Planing  with  the  Grain           __..--  16 

Planing  First  Surface          „.,_--  10 

Planing  First  Edge         -                                              -  17 

Planing  a  Chamfer 107 

Planing  a  Circle               _.__-.=  47 

Planing  a  Glue  Joint           ------  126 

Planing  a  Glued  Joint     -------  64 

Planing  an  End  Square -  104 

Planing,  General  Directions  for       _        _        .  14 

Planing  an  Octagon             -         -         -         -         -          •  132 

Planing  a  Miter  123: 

Planing,  Position  while        .."..--  8 

Pointer  134 

Pers9nal  Equipment --  4 

Putty                   175 

Rabbeted  Joint       -                 110 

Ratchet  Bit  Brace      -  143 

Regulations             --------  5 


204  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Removing  Work  --------             7 

Ripping  a  Mortise  --..-___       79 

Rip  Saws  .5-179 

Rip  Saws,  Using   -  19-79-94-99-193 

Riveting  Hammer  -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -157 

Round  Ends 10,5-108 

Rubbing  Varnish -     55-192 

Rule  -  20-23-20-104-131-175 

Sandpaper _...  177 

Sandpapering  an  End  -------50 

Sandpapering  a  Halved  Corner          -----  68 

Sandpapering  a  Surface 51 

Sandpapering  Shellac        -„_----  54 

Sandpapering  a  Cylinder 133 

Saws 179 

Saws,  Use  of 41-48-63-70-79-99-100 

Saw  Clamp 181 

Saw  File  150 

Saw  Horse  or  Trestle 99 

Saw  Set  -        -        -       182 

School  Equipment  5 

Scraper  182 

Scraper,  Using  a       -  54-184 

Scribing  a  Dovetail 94-97-120 

Second  Surface         .-.-.---  17 

Screw  Driver  173-186 

Shearing  Cut  with  Chisel         ....          45-49-59-70-79 

Shelf  Border  35  to  45 

Shellac    -  188 

Shellacing 53 


ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK  205 

Shellac  Brush  144 

Sighting  for  Straightnes.<  -  10 

Sighting  for  Wind  or  Twist     - 12 

Single  Dovetail  -  91 

Sizing  with  Glue     -  112 

Slip  Mortise  and  Miter        -  125 

Slip  Mortise  and  Tenon  -         -  -      77 

Smooth  Plane  ...       5-165 

Smooth  Plane,  Using     -  -         10-14-47-67-104-107-123-132 

Smooth  Plane,  Sharpening         --___.  172 

Soap  4 

Special  Dovetail  Joint.     -  .....  120 

Splitting  Out  Waste  Material        -.-.-.         58 
Squaring  an  End      -         -         -         -         -         -         -  49-76-104 

Squares 187 

Squares,  Steel 187 

Trysquare     -         - 187 

Stains  and  Paints 189 

Straight  Edge      -----_.__          12 
Strop  190 

Superposition,  method  of    ----...         70 
Supplementary  Exercises         -         -         -        -  99  to  135 

Taper  Saw  File 150 

Tearing  Sandpaper          .......  50 

Tee  Bevel -        -        -  191 

Tee  Bevel,  Setting 123-191 

Tee  Bevel,  use  of 123 

Third  Side  of  Piece 23 

Towel                  4 

Through  Mortise  and  Tenon 83 


206  ELEMENTARY  WOODWORK 

Truing  the  F;rst  Surface     -         -         -        -         -        -  -         -10 

Try-Square  187 

Setting  to  a  Point  on  a  Line 26-48 

In  Testing  Sawing -          100 

In  Testing  Lines -20 

In  Testing  Joints 61  to  67 

In  Testing  Round  Ends  106 

In  Testing  a  Bit  -    37 

In  Testing  a  Surface -  11-18 

Holding  the  Try-Square     -  12-27-48 

Twist  Bit  -      1 42 

Twist  Drill 141 


Waste  Material 

Wax 

Wedging      - 

Withdrawing  Xails  - 

Wind  or  Twist,  Sighting  for 

Wire  Edge,  Removing 

Wooden  Hand  Screw  - 

Work  Bench   - 

Work  Bench,  Care  of  - 


Vises        ----------  193 

Vise,  Use  of          -        -  17-35-36-38-67-71-72-75-78-79-104-193 


M... 


